Why is a resistor worse than high resistance wire to reduce damping?
You have to try it… if i can get away with wire i can get its other benefits as well.
A resistor does add at least 4 more connections to the 2 in a piece of wire.
dave
This is a ingenious remedy, perhaps such flaps may be made of wood to better integrate with the speaker.
Apart from the minor fact that a horn variation, by nature, has a wider operating BW than, for example, a conventional [small] vented box and the response characteristics vary depending on the specifics of expansion / load profile. Still, never let the facts and all that...
What are the benefits, other than higher resistance, of a thinner wire over a thicker wire?You have to try it… if i can get away with wire i can get its other benefits as well.
Well, for a start it should cost less and be easier to run & keep out of the way (if those are issues). And if you happen to accept Hawksford's view on electromagnetics, the thin wire is one way of adhering to his interpretation. I don't myself, but many do, so for them it ticks that box too. And so on & so forth. However, this is potentially off topic as this thread is about trying to help the OP, not discussing theory.
The angles of front & rear referred to should not have a catastrophic affect on LF response. However, the 206 was designed to be used with higher amplifier output impedances, and this was partly factored into Dallas II. What you do have to be careful of, as Dave alludes to, is the avoidance of leak paths in the horn. Any gap or bleed through between panels can and does rapidly compromise the load and the LF output quickly drops off as a result. In most practical cases, Dallas II should be good for roughly mid-40Hz regions in-room with reasonable gain, so if you're not getting that, something is awry somewhere.
The angles of front & rear referred to should not have a catastrophic affect on LF response. However, the 206 was designed to be used with higher amplifier output impedances, and this was partly factored into Dallas II. What you do have to be careful of, as Dave alludes to, is the avoidance of leak paths in the horn. Any gap or bleed through between panels can and does rapidly compromise the load and the LF output quickly drops off as a result. In most practical cases, Dallas II should be good for roughly mid-40Hz regions in-room with reasonable gain, so if you're not getting that, something is awry somewhere.
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So why did you say "no"? I was saying that it's not necessarily the worst case, and giving an example of how and when it isn't.Yes, it is. So what?
So why did you say "no"? I was saying that it's not necessarily the worst case, and giving an example of how and when it isn't.
Looks to me like between you, you've run afoul of the rather blunt tool that is the written word.
You both agree that a resistor can get the job done, although thin wire means you don't need to add an extra connection.
Any chance the design could do with some BSC, and/or some kind of filter to tame the often rising response trend of the Fostex FE range?
My other question would be what's being used as a reference. If it's some bass-heavy headphones, I can imagine that a ~flat speaker would leave them wanting more.
Chris
Isn't keeping the wire as short as possible more advantageous than the negative impact of a couple of extra connections? There is also the potential issue of a thin single core wire being fragile.You both agree that a resistor can get the job done, although thin wire means you don't need to add an extra connection.
I am used to a Geneva sound system L, which is poor in sound and especially bass compared to a stereo system.
I have used 1/8 inch of wool felt in the driver cabinet.
There is predominate bass in the interior of the horn; I do not know if this detail is of use.
Thank you again,
I have used 1/8 inch of wool felt in the driver cabinet.
There is predominate bass in the interior of the horn; I do not know if this detail is of use.
Thank you again,
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