My bridges get fairly warm as Stuart mentioned they would be. Mine are mounted in the origianl Krell fashion..... right onthe caps..... just makes things alot easier to wire with shorter wires too. Note the white grease peeking out from under the bridge.
Attachments
For those of you planning on using BrianGT's PSU boards, I still have some 50VDC Snap in caps left for sale from a bulk purchase I made for some other members.
Regards
Anthony
Regards
Anthony
Ok, it seems the concensus is for no major changes, so I will just redo the drill file, and mail it over to Mark.
pinkmouse said:Ok, it seems the concensus is for no major changes, so I will just redo the drill file, and mail it over to Mark.
Sounds good to me.
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:Mine are mounted in the origianl Krell fashion.....
is it me, or are those metal strips really Fat ?
Anyone ever experimented with putting a metal layer on copper ?
I have these gorgeous copper strips i'd like to use for the Krell PS, and would like to sheet them.
Calling Mr Electrolysis,long distance.
Anyone ever experimented with putting a metal layer on copper? I have these gorgeous copper strips i'd like to use for the Krell PS, and would like to sheet them.
Why would you do that Jacco?
jacco vermeulen said:
is it me, or are those metal strips really Fat ?
Anyone ever experimented with putting a metal layer on copper ?
I have these gorgeous copper strips i'd like to use for the Krell PS, and would like to sheet them.
Calling Mr Electrolysis,long distance.
Silver plated some Copper Bus bars, not sure If I would do it again.
Anthony
Ok, it seems the concensus is for no major changes, so I will just redo the drill file, and mail it over to Mark.
Thats great! I will be in Idaho this week again but will have the laptop with me.
Jacco,
Those are alumnium bars approximately 4.750" long X 1.675" wideX .375" thick(you convert to metric). They provide some heat sinking for the bridges and keeps the buss wiring very short.... yes that are about twice as thick as the original Krell bars were. Nuttin wrong with that though. BTW, there is anti-oxidization compound under the screws and star washers. Yeeee-haaaaa!(we still say that out in the west sometimes)
Mark
Hi,
how about tinning them with solder to delay corrosion.
Anyone know how to plate with real tin? To eliminate corrosion and solderable as well.
how about tinning them with solder to delay corrosion.
Anyone know how to plate with real tin? To eliminate corrosion and solderable as well.
The Anti-oxidation compound prevents corrosion. Were they anodized then they would be insulated.
Mark
Mark
AndrewT said:Hi,
how about tinning them with solder to delay corrosion.
Anyone know how to plate with real tin? To eliminate corrosion and solderable as well.
You can have this done farily cheap by having them zinc plated, the copper over the zinc. After that a simple tin plating should cause you no problems to do your self.
Magura 🙂
Hi,
two suggestions for the Wiki build pages.
1. How to calculate the resistors that control the quiescent current in each of the stages. Particularly for those who have a different transformer voltage.
2. What range of quiescent current suits each stage and what effect does each have on operating parameters and sound quality.
two suggestions for the Wiki build pages.
1. How to calculate the resistors that control the quiescent current in each of the stages. Particularly for those who have a different transformer voltage.
2. What range of quiescent current suits each stage and what effect does each have on operating parameters and sound quality.
If it came down to that I would just use gold plated copper bar instead. It wouod be easier than all that plating.....
Mark
Mark
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:If it came down to that I would just use gold plated copper bar instead. It wouod be easier than all that plating.....
Mark
Well, he wanted tin,
give the people what they want..... 😀
Magura🙂
Mark A. Gulbrandsen said:My bridges get fairly warm as Stuart mentioned they would be. Mine are mounted in the origianl Krell fashion..... right onthe caps..... just makes things alot easier to wire with shorter wires too. Note the white grease peeking out from under the bridge.
Mark,
Where does one get hold of those bus bars?
K-amps said:
Mark,
Where does one get hold of those bus bars?
Best place in the US is McMaster- Carr
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Regards
Anthony
Alu don't plate easily----far from.....
If you use copper bars, it would need a layer of rhodium first, to enhance adhetion.
Why not use the alu as is? It is fairly non-corrosive by nature, polishes easily - and so does copper..........................
HMMM----Don't say the gold would enhance the sound......????
If you use copper bars, it would need a layer of rhodium first, to enhance adhetion.
Why not use the alu as is? It is fairly non-corrosive by nature, polishes easily - and so does copper..........................
HMMM----Don't say the gold would enhance the sound......????
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