A friend has already taken my advice and been successful. Another used Tang band Drivers from Parts Express with great success. Low bass problem SOLVED. Especially since you have a cheap amp per sub that has adjustments for amplitude and crossover frequency to match the room they are in. Success from 2 different people in two different applications. Another friend built 4 on center walls to go with Super Heresy's. His quest is over. You can even adjust them by ear with your favorite bass recordings. No measurements required. You can even make them out of 6 mm baltic birch (proven by a 3rd friend who can'ts stop talking about how great they are). Since it's a labyrinth, it's already over braced, so, the thinner plywood is just fine.
https://www.parts-express.com/Tang-...per-Cone-Subwoofer-Speaker-264-919?quantity=1
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I’m going to focus on getting something basic up and running first.
I’ll probably have to start a thread at some point…not like there is a shortage of LaScala build threads.
I’ve been looking several LaScala discussion threads over in the “other” forum. I’m trying to come up with an overall plan.
Given that I found these original Klipsch industrial LF horns and the matching K-43 drivers, I can’t help but wonder if I should pursue a more “OEM” like solution for the tops.
Not that I’m a slave to originality or that they would have any additional value in doing so.
I would like the experience of some sort of baseline that I could say “Oh, this is what a LaScala is supposed to sound like”.
The option of driving them with a single amp when I want seems appealing as well.
Also, having a proven plug and play formula to get up and running quicker is very attractive.
However, in the end it really should boil down to achieving the most satisfying sound quality I can.
I had a short conversation with Michael over at Crites to see what their recommendation would be.
That would set me back about $1700 to my door.
I’m not sure its the route I want to take yet.
I like DIY because it allows for your ability to be creative and consider alternatives for various reasons…including cost.
I’m considering finding a decent looking pair of k55 drivers first to try on the TE-8180 horns I got on buyout from Parts Express. They happen to have a 1 3/8”-18 mount and are supposed to be good down to 500Hz. They aren’t C401.
Would they work with a Type AA crossover? I’ve seen a few cheap “good” vintage ones for sale. Not sure if that’s shooting myself in the foot though.
I think investing in a pair of the SMAHL or LMAHL lenses and B&C drivers would be a good idea.
Supposedly the versions with the B&C DE10 drivers can work without modifying original Klipsch crossovers.
Its not clear to me what is gained by going with the DE120 that may require an L-pad and tweaking.
Any input from you Klipscheads is appreciated.
I’ll probably have to start a thread at some point…not like there is a shortage of LaScala build threads.
I’ve been looking several LaScala discussion threads over in the “other” forum. I’m trying to come up with an overall plan.
Given that I found these original Klipsch industrial LF horns and the matching K-43 drivers, I can’t help but wonder if I should pursue a more “OEM” like solution for the tops.
Not that I’m a slave to originality or that they would have any additional value in doing so.
I would like the experience of some sort of baseline that I could say “Oh, this is what a LaScala is supposed to sound like”.
The option of driving them with a single amp when I want seems appealing as well.
Also, having a proven plug and play formula to get up and running quicker is very attractive.
However, in the end it really should boil down to achieving the most satisfying sound quality I can.
I had a short conversation with Michael over at Crites to see what their recommendation would be.
- C401 horn
- A55G/2 mid driver
- CT120 tweeter/horn combo
- Type AA crossover
That would set me back about $1700 to my door.
I’m not sure its the route I want to take yet.
I like DIY because it allows for your ability to be creative and consider alternatives for various reasons…including cost.
I’m considering finding a decent looking pair of k55 drivers first to try on the TE-8180 horns I got on buyout from Parts Express. They happen to have a 1 3/8”-18 mount and are supposed to be good down to 500Hz. They aren’t C401.
Would they work with a Type AA crossover? I’ve seen a few cheap “good” vintage ones for sale. Not sure if that’s shooting myself in the foot though.
I think investing in a pair of the SMAHL or LMAHL lenses and B&C drivers would be a good idea.
Supposedly the versions with the B&C DE10 drivers can work without modifying original Klipsch crossovers.
Its not clear to me what is gained by going with the DE120 that may require an L-pad and tweaking.
Any input from you Klipscheads is appreciated.
If you are going to build a MID bass Horn. the FH-1 is superior to a LaScala in every way. And my Quarter Pie beats them both with a K43.
FH1 plays smooth - and is well braced - lots of fun cranked with Bon Scott and Altec 511 as a midhorn. Have the Klipscheads played with PRV's d3220ph ?
https://prvaudio.com/products/d3220ph/
https://prvaudio.com/products/d3220ph/
No, but the PRV 2220 works just fine in their 400 Hz tractrix horn to 8 khz
I am definitely biased, as I've built non-standard LaScala clones, and I'll say from my experience that the PRV Audio WG45-50 tractrix horn and their D2200PH 2" driver is an order of magnitude better than the K400 and its derivatives, as well as the drivers that go along with them. they are considerably less shouty an more natural sounding, with better, abeit not perfect time alignment with the tweeter, for better imaging and dispersion. As an added bonus, the horns and drivers will set you back less than $200 for the set. They will work with an AA crossover, with some modest modifications; I prefer an ALK universal, but you do you.
IIRC, the primary reason that the B&C DE120 was selected for the sMAHL, was due to clearance issues in many enclosures. Claude may correct me, but if you have the space, the DE10 is fine.
The D2200PH is less expensive and plays lower: 475Hz in a K510 and down to 400Hz ih the PRV WG4550 18x10" tractrix horn. I don't really see an advantage the the D3220Ph, tbh, unless you need the increased power handling and nominally higher sensitivity.
You don't. The ZXPC or PRV WG45-50 and PRV D2200Ph will blow away the A55G/2 and 401 horn. Plus the suggested parts are much less expensive.
The D3220Ph looks like it has a fairly smooth frequency response according to PRV data. However, the D2200Ph has the perfect frequency response and bandwidth (400Hz~6kHz) on the ZXPC or WG45-50 18x10 horn. Who could ask for more bandwidth than this from a midrange/horn combo for a three-way system?
As stated earlier, unless you need the extra power handling, just use the D2200Ph.
Interesting that you are both talking about the PRV and K510 (eBay clone?).
I came across them several times in my research and was kind of thinking they seem too good to be true…but for $100 or so shipped how could I not get a pair?
I wasn’t sure what driver to try with them. The Radian 760pb neo won’t go low enough.
I have a pair of used BMS 4590 I picked up cheap that are an option. No time alignment issues to worry about. However, I’ve come across more than one negative comment about them…especially in tractrix horns?
I need to dig up the measurements I took if the Dukane in the TE-8180 horn.
I may just buy the SMAHL lenses and try a pair of Celestion CDX1-1445 that I have with them first.
Finding a combination that will work with one of the Klipsch crossovers would be great.
I came across them several times in my research and was kind of thinking they seem too good to be true…but for $100 or so shipped how could I not get a pair?
I wasn’t sure what driver to try with them. The Radian 760pb neo won’t go low enough.
I have a pair of used BMS 4590 I picked up cheap that are an option. No time alignment issues to worry about. However, I’ve come across more than one negative comment about them…especially in tractrix horns?
I need to dig up the measurements I took if the Dukane in the TE-8180 horn.
I may just buy the SMAHL lenses and try a pair of Celestion CDX1-1445 that I have with them first.
Finding a combination that will work with one of the Klipsch crossovers would be great.
I bought the ZXPC 510 clone and returned it for the PRV WG45-50/ZXPC 18x10. It has an extremely flat response and the polar pattern is pretty good from 400Hz~7kHz (horizontally). It looks like it is more of a "constant directivity" type horn rather than "tractrix".
I had the k510 clone with the the D2200Ph in an alignment that is comparable to a Forte. I’ll admit that it sounded better than any mid horn that I’d used up to that point, K700, K701, K602, but ultimately, I was kinda disappointed by its performance. When I decided to build LaScala clones, I went with the the PRV WG45-50 and couldn’t be happier. The frequency response is much better (lower) and smoother and the dispersion is better. Granted, I put mumps on mine, but overall, my LaScalus are significantly better sounding than even the latest generation AL-5, from both a subjective and objective standpoint, i.e. I think they sound good and I have the measurements to back up my opinion.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/prv-d2200ph-zxpc-18x10-horn.1022611/
There is a whole thread at AudioKarma on the D2200Ph and WG45-50/ZXPC18x10 horn combo.
There is a whole thread at AudioKarma on the D2200Ph and WG45-50/ZXPC18x10 horn combo.
I’m still using the D2200PH, am using L-MAHL tweeters and a Dayton Audio DSP-408 active crossover and multiple amps, although I originally used an ALK Universal. I detailed my build, here: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/lascalus-a-horn-loaded-lascala-chorus-hybrid.403921/
Hi everyone. I intend to post about everything that I have done to my LaScalas but I have an immediate question.
I am replacing the woofers and I have opened up the first speaker. I was surprised to see that there is no damping material in the doghouse. Shouldn't there be some?
If I am going to add some, does anyone have specific recommendations as to what, where and how much?
Thanks,
Pete
I am replacing the woofers and I have opened up the first speaker. I was surprised to see that there is no damping material in the doghouse. Shouldn't there be some?
If I am going to add some, does anyone have specific recommendations as to what, where and how much?
Thanks,
Pete
Been reading a lot and came across this:
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/156100-la-scala-tweaks-and-hacks-hit-me/
Several posts down DJK responds to this statement in quotes:
"Never use any damping in the dog box"
1 inch thick layer poly foam added to the inside of the doghouse and some measurements. The poly foam used is the same stuff that is in your couch bumm cushions. Below are results with a 2 foot by 2 foot sheet of 1 inch foam added to the legacy sealed cabinet. The notch at 200Hz is all but gone and the one at 575Hz is substantially reduced. And notice the new gain above 700Hz in the red circle.
Debate ensues…
https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/156100-la-scala-tweaks-and-hacks-hit-me/
Several posts down DJK responds to this statement in quotes:
"Never use any damping in the dog box"
1 inch thick layer poly foam added to the inside of the doghouse and some measurements. The poly foam used is the same stuff that is in your couch bumm cushions. Below are results with a 2 foot by 2 foot sheet of 1 inch foam added to the legacy sealed cabinet. The notch at 200Hz is all but gone and the one at 575Hz is substantially reduced. And notice the new gain above 700Hz in the red circle.
Debate ensues…
Purists say don‘t stuff It. People who want it to sound better stuff It. Which are you?
I can't be sure but didn't Dennis say the doghouse was too large and to install material to reduce the internal volume?