That makes alot more sense.
Cheers.
With the crossover, can I just connect both the minus' to the one (negative) terminal?
Is that why people prefer bi-wiring?
Ted, you said you have a personal preference for bi-amping. Which I think would certainly sounds like a good idea.
But I'd then need a normal speaker cable with 2 plugs on one end and for on the other... would they be easy to make?
Cheers.
With the crossover, can I just connect both the minus' to the one (negative) terminal?
Is that why people prefer bi-wiring?
Ted, you said you have a personal preference for bi-amping. Which I think would certainly sounds like a good idea.
But I'd then need a normal speaker cable with 2 plugs on one end and for on the other... would they be easy to make?
No matt Bi-amping is where you have completely seperate amplifiers for the different pass bands,
Goes like this
Source
Pre-amplifier
( has volume /tone control/ various inputs/ selector switches ) one output for each channel L+R assuming stereo
Electronic crossover
( 2channel / 3 channel or more )
Bass power amplifier
Mid-range/treble amplifier
Read Elliot sound pages for best explanation
Goes like this
Source
Pre-amplifier
( has volume /tone control/ various inputs/ selector switches ) one output for each channel L+R assuming stereo
Electronic crossover
( 2channel / 3 channel or more )
Bass power amplifier
Mid-range/treble amplifier
Read Elliot sound pages for best explanation
Keep it simple Matt and you can progress to other areas in time.... walk before running.
Don't get hung up on cables and wire as you will find you will wander into that as the years go by. I have no experience with the silver litz wire but some users comment that silver can be bright or more harsh... personal tastes and opinions just the same as when I waffle.
Wires and cables can make a difference and there's a head banging thread (keep away) about it here somewhere. I'd heard more variations in interconnects and signal wire than I have with speaker cables. Over the years after trying heaps I've settled on Vampire CCC-II (which I buy from Florida) for signal and various Supra products for speaker wire. Neither is expensive but they're not cheapies either.
I'm not familar with the caps that Ralph is selling and I settled on Mundorf M-Cap (white ones) over the years as I feel they are a good sonic bang for buck. I do also use the Jantzen if I happen to be buying their inductors at the same time. The main thing is the type of cap and polypropylene is better in crossovers.
Ask 100 users here about caps and wire and you'll get 100 different answers. Choosing the right drivers however is 75% of speaker design. Get that right and the design falls into place.
Don't get hung up on cables and wire as you will find you will wander into that as the years go by. I have no experience with the silver litz wire but some users comment that silver can be bright or more harsh... personal tastes and opinions just the same as when I waffle.
Wires and cables can make a difference and there's a head banging thread (keep away) about it here somewhere. I'd heard more variations in interconnects and signal wire than I have with speaker cables. Over the years after trying heaps I've settled on Vampire CCC-II (which I buy from Florida) for signal and various Supra products for speaker wire. Neither is expensive but they're not cheapies either.
I'm not familar with the caps that Ralph is selling and I settled on Mundorf M-Cap (white ones) over the years as I feel they are a good sonic bang for buck. I do also use the Jantzen if I happen to be buying their inductors at the same time. The main thing is the type of cap and polypropylene is better in crossovers.
Ask 100 users here about caps and wire and you'll get 100 different answers. Choosing the right drivers however is 75% of speaker design. Get that right and the design falls into place.
Ok awesome.
I'm looking at crossover parts from Speakerbug.com.au and have developed two questions.
1) I can't find a 4uF cap as designated in the tweeter XO, is it better to go for a 3.9uF or a 4.7uF instead of it?
2) I can't find a .5mH coil, go for a .47mH or a .56mH?
Or should I look elsewhere for a specific match?
Thanks again,
Matt.
I'm looking at crossover parts from Speakerbug.com.au and have developed two questions.
1) I can't find a 4uF cap as designated in the tweeter XO, is it better to go for a 3.9uF or a 4.7uF instead of it?
2) I can't find a .5mH coil, go for a .47mH or a .56mH?
Or should I look elsewhere for a specific match?
Thanks again,
Matt.
Sorry about the sudden onset of very specific questions buuuut:
There are two resistors on the tweeter. One is valued '2R2' but I'm not sure if the other one is (or should be) '18R' or '1R8'.
If it is, '18R' then I have another question in that speakerbug only has:
15R or 22R resistors. Can there be a compromise or should I look around (open to suggestions where of course).
Attached is the schematic for convenience.
There are two resistors on the tweeter. One is valued '2R2' but I'm not sure if the other one is (or should be) '18R' or '1R8'.
If it is, '18R' then I have another question in that speakerbug only has:
15R or 22R resistors. Can there be a compromise or should I look around (open to suggestions where of course).
Attached is the schematic for convenience.
Attachments
1. Use a 3.9uF.
2. Get a 0.56mH and we unwind it to 0.5mH. I will tell you how many turns.
3. That resistor should be 18R but if not available use 22R. You have a Jaycar in Cairns and can get 18R 10W there (RR-3355).
Jaycar has a lot of stuff for speakers like terminals and their damping material that's used inside the box is quite good (AX-3694).
2. Get a 0.56mH and we unwind it to 0.5mH. I will tell you how many turns.
3. That resistor should be 18R but if not available use 22R. You have a Jaycar in Cairns and can get 18R 10W there (RR-3355).
Jaycar has a lot of stuff for speakers like terminals and their damping material that's used inside the box is quite good (AX-3694).
Matt; again with the pertinent questions??
You may want, if you don't already have, to set some money aside for a good quality digital multimeter.
Some of the better DMMs have capacitor and inductor testing as two of the available functions.
If Jaycar do not have 10 watt resistors in stock in the value needed remember you can double the value and connect two resistors in parallel.
I'll throw into the box some reasonably good 2uF capacitors, use 2 in parallel to give you 4uF, you can replace them with really good capacitors as you progress.
I do not make my own electronic XOs, I have a couple of the dirt cheap Behringer CX3210s, at $99- each it can be cheaper than using high value coils and capacitors, and I use them for the bass frequency only, anything below 300Hz i tend to do electronically
You may want, if you don't already have, to set some money aside for a good quality digital multimeter.
Some of the better DMMs have capacitor and inductor testing as two of the available functions.
If Jaycar do not have 10 watt resistors in stock in the value needed remember you can double the value and connect two resistors in parallel.
I'll throw into the box some reasonably good 2uF capacitors, use 2 in parallel to give you 4uF, you can replace them with really good capacitors as you progress.
I do not make my own electronic XOs, I have a couple of the dirt cheap Behringer CX3210s, at $99- each it can be cheaper than using high value coils and capacitors, and I use them for the bass frequency only, anything below 300Hz i tend to do electronically
My father has a decent multi-meter, being an electrician-by-trade I'm hoping he can help out with any eventual building problems i have.
Thanks rabbitz for answers on what to buy, Jaycar sounds convenient for a few parts aswell.
Thanks. That, again, would be much appreciated.
Just out of curiosity Ted, could you detail your system with the behringers.
i.e. does it go:
Source > Preamp > Amp > Behringer > Speakers?
Thanks rabbitz for answers on what to buy, Jaycar sounds convenient for a few parts aswell.
Thanks.
That, again, would be much appreciated.Just out of curiosity Ted, could you detail your system with the behringers.
i.e. does it go:
Source > Preamp > Amp > Behringer > Speakers?
I just ordered the drivers, will pay once I get a message back from Ralph.
I'm uber excited.
Just wondering, are any of the caps, resistors or inductors not directly in the line of sound? So less expensive components will do in their case.
Just something that I remembered reading about a headphone amp, that some components are in the line of the audio so there'd be no need to spend higher amounts on components.
I'm not saying I want to cheap out, just don't want to spend unnecessary money.
I'm uber excited.
Just wondering, are any of the caps, resistors or inductors not directly in the line of sound? So less expensive components will do in their case.
Just something that I remembered reading about a headphone amp, that some components are in the line of the audio so there'd be no need to spend higher amounts on components.
I'm not saying I want to cheap out, just don't want to spend unnecessary money.
It does pay to use good quality components in the signal path, I got these 2uF caps from Jaycar, 200 in a bag for $19-, OK for cheap XOs and good for Zobels.
If I can persuade my better half I am going to buy a set of these for myself, will need a decent 15inch or possibly a pair of 12 inch woofers to complement them, perhaps it is time to buy those cheap Chinese Peerless woofers?
Edited to correct dumb spelling mistakes.
If I can persuade my better half I am going to buy a set of these for myself, will need a decent 15inch or possibly a pair of 12 inch woofers to complement them, perhaps it is time to buy those cheap Chinese Peerless woofers?
Edited to correct dumb spelling mistakes.
I planning to take your advice from earlier on and save up and look for a good subwoofer.
Before that I'm hoping to find a passive preamp with a couple of XLR and RCA outputs.
Both DIY if possible of course.
Thanks for all your help, it has been a great experience thus far and I can't wait to share the my final result (impressions, atleast) with all!
I'm waiting for a reply from Ralph to see if he has an enclosure suggestion, if not I'll have to work out what I want... so if you both can still put up with me I'll probably have many more questions.
Before that I'm hoping to find a passive preamp with a couple of XLR and RCA outputs.
Both DIY if possible of course.
Thanks for all your help, it has been a great experience thus far and I can't wait to share the my final result (impressions, atleast) with all!
I'm waiting for a reply from Ralph to see if he has an enclosure suggestion, if not I'll have to work out what I want... so if you both can still put up with me I'll probably have many more questions.
We will do our best.
If possible take a walk into town and do some research ( that is ) see if it is possible to audition any Hi-Fi speakers of the different types to see if you
1/ can hear any difference
2/ you may have a preference for one type over the other.
Just don't forget you are getting advice from very biased people, I know that is true because all speaker builders have different tastes, hearing, experience and education.
There are one or three real genius's that use these forums, I'm not one of 'em.
Rabbitz got it right, walk first, build a small and totally adequate system to start with, add the subwoofer later on.
By then you may have developed specific tastes in reproduction, design and the music you listen to.
I warn you now
Chasing that bottom octave is quite hard and can get very expensive, also best heard in relatively big rooms too
If possible take a walk into town and do some research ( that is ) see if it is possible to audition any Hi-Fi speakers of the different types to see if you
1/ can hear any difference
2/ you may have a preference for one type over the other.
Just don't forget you are getting advice from very biased people, I know that is true because all speaker builders have different tastes, hearing, experience and education.
There are one or three real genius's that use these forums, I'm not one of 'em.
Rabbitz got it right, walk first, build a small and totally adequate system to start with, add the subwoofer later on.
By then you may have developed specific tastes in reproduction, design and the music you listen to.
I warn you now
Chasing that bottom octave is quite hard and can get very expensive, also best heard in relatively big rooms too
mattcalf said:I'm waiting for a reply from Ralph to see if he has an enclosure suggestion, if not I'll have to work out what I want... so if you both can still put up with me I'll probably have many more questions.
We're along for the full ride so we'll be here. I might go MIA for a few days on occasions.
Just to chime in, would a snubbered 3886 (Brian's kit) suit?
I've got one here that hasn't been used for years :/
160VA > PSU > Modules ... all hooked up. Just needs to be dropped into a case with ancillary hookup wire.
Think of a 3875 with a shift in emphasis from mids to lower mids (very well balanced though). If your interested you can have it for postage costs?
I have a crap memory though so get Rabbitz to nag me if I don't respond for a bit, or something
I've got one here that hasn't been used for years :/
160VA > PSU > Modules ... all hooked up. Just needs to be dropped into a case with ancillary hookup wire.
Think of a 3875 with a shift in emphasis from mids to lower mids (very well balanced though). If your interested you can have it for postage costs?
I have a crap memory though so get Rabbitz to nag me if I don't respond for a bit, or something
lazyfly said:Just to chime in, would a snubbered 3886 (Brian's kit) suit?
I've got one here that hasn't been used for years :/
160VA > PSU > Modules ... all hooked up. Just needs to be dropped into a case with ancillary hookup wire.
Think of a 3875 with a shift in emphasis from mids to lower mids (very well balanced though). If your interested you can have it for postage costs?
I have a crap memory though so get Rabbitz to nag me if I don't respond for a bit, or something
Yeah sure I'll take it off your hands!
I once built a headphone amplifier called a 'Starving Student' which was perfect for my situation, this amp could further that notion.
I'll email you my address if you'd like, of course no hurry and whenever is much appreciated!
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