Moondog55 said:
Moondog55 said:
What kind of crossover would be involved in rigging up a box with one of each of these in there?
Help Rabbitz, please.
Or Andy G because from the description and a quick look at the plots a series XO may be what is needed, as the roll-off at the top of the woofers frequency is so smooth a simple inductor in series should do it, ditto with the tweeter as a single cap in series with the tweeter is recommended, which is aprox 6000Hz.
I would ask for more opinions but if it was me working with these components I would try crossing about 3.5K, that would mean a second order high pass on the tweeter, using a capacitor in series and a coil ( inductor ) in parallel.
Or ask the seller for a recommendation and a diagram
Or Andy G because from the description and a quick look at the plots a series XO may be what is needed, as the roll-off at the top of the woofers frequency is so smooth a simple inductor in series should do it, ditto with the tweeter as a single cap in series with the tweeter is recommended, which is aprox 6000Hz.
I would ask for more opinions but if it was me working with these components I would try crossing about 3.5K, that would mean a second order high pass on the tweeter, using a capacitor in series and a coil ( inductor ) in parallel.
Or ask the seller for a recommendation and a diagram
Also Matt read this thread thru
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142793
As the original poster has woofer with similar smooth roll-off, note how opinions differ.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=142793
As the original poster has woofer with similar smooth roll-off, note how opinions differ.
Sorry for multiple short posta Matt, I just noticed that the same seller has this tweeter at an unbeatable price, get in quick before I cheat on my wife and spend the housekeeping money on drivers.
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=104
Opinions?/om some others??
http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=80&Itemid=104
Opinions?/om some others??
Ted
I bought some of those SEAS 27TFF from him to go in the little Vifa speaker in the wiki. They were a nice match and of course needed a new crossover plus a zobel added. BTW, I've order the Coral MHD-55 from him as well and am working on a design.
The Audax pair would not be a good match as the AW010E1 is not really suitable (too high Fs for one) for that woofer and IMO it deserves a better tweeter such as the Peerless 810921 or SEAS 27TDFC (even the SEAS 27TFF he's selling). That would lift the price too high for Matt. I've used the AW010E1 before and if I remember correctly was used in the Richter Griffin centre speaker I had. Ralph would have designs for it for sure as he's Mr Richter and Subsonic.
Matt
I do have a design that's part of the design guide that's been kindly hosted by Dan at Darcher Audio. The drivers have been discontinued but they still show up at Speakerbits. Quite a few of my customers built it and were happy with the results. The last one used a Vifa D26TG-05-06 as I couldn't source the TD20TD for him. With a crossover redesign it became a better speaker and probably is a closer match to the Madisound RB as the mid woofer is virtually the same (badge engineering) and also the same as that in the LSK M5 (it looks like the PAE 14SG08). I think it might be a bit large for Matt as they do need a medium size room and best used not nearfield but I don't know his full application. Looks like the drivers (D26TG-05-06 + 14WG08) can be had for around $145 incl GST at Speakerbits (their prices are x GST). A crossover can always be built by a member here that lives near Matt (where are you located?).
http://www.darcheraudio.com.au/guide/index.htm
The little Vifa in the wiki is still probably a very good option as I think he needs a small speaker from my reading. For it's price it does very well and recently had a guy compare it to Dynaudio Contour 1.1 which sell for US$1500. I think this speaker would be more satisfying in the long term. I still have mine and the P13 kills the 14WG08 (good driver for the price) in smoothness and mids.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1766678#post1766678
I've only had one complaint which was the lack of bass and that's to be expected with a P13 in a small box. Mine has an F3 just below 60Hz which is fine for nearfield or in a small room. Need any more and a sub can be added.
It's a very difficult price point when you are after a kit especially with the A$ being a tad low and the suppliers taking a larger chunk than the dollar is showing. An experienced DIYer would have less of a problem as can build the crossover and tweak etc.
I bought some of those SEAS 27TFF from him to go in the little Vifa speaker in the wiki. They were a nice match and of course needed a new crossover plus a zobel added. BTW, I've order the Coral MHD-55 from him as well and am working on a design.
The Audax pair would not be a good match as the AW010E1 is not really suitable (too high Fs for one) for that woofer and IMO it deserves a better tweeter such as the Peerless 810921 or SEAS 27TDFC (even the SEAS 27TFF he's selling). That would lift the price too high for Matt. I've used the AW010E1 before and if I remember correctly was used in the Richter Griffin centre speaker I had. Ralph would have designs for it for sure as he's Mr Richter and Subsonic.
Matt
I do have a design that's part of the design guide that's been kindly hosted by Dan at Darcher Audio. The drivers have been discontinued but they still show up at Speakerbits. Quite a few of my customers built it and were happy with the results. The last one used a Vifa D26TG-05-06 as I couldn't source the TD20TD for him. With a crossover redesign it became a better speaker and probably is a closer match to the Madisound RB as the mid woofer is virtually the same (badge engineering) and also the same as that in the LSK M5 (it looks like the PAE 14SG08). I think it might be a bit large for Matt as they do need a medium size room and best used not nearfield but I don't know his full application. Looks like the drivers (D26TG-05-06 + 14WG08) can be had for around $145 incl GST at Speakerbits (their prices are x GST). A crossover can always be built by a member here that lives near Matt (where are you located?).
http://www.darcheraudio.com.au/guide/index.htm
The little Vifa in the wiki is still probably a very good option as I think he needs a small speaker from my reading. For it's price it does very well and recently had a guy compare it to Dynaudio Contour 1.1 which sell for US$1500. I think this speaker would be more satisfying in the long term. I still have mine and the P13 kills the 14WG08 (good driver for the price) in smoothness and mids.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1766678#post1766678
I've only had one complaint which was the lack of bass and that's to be expected with a P13 in a small box. Mine has an F3 just below 60Hz which is fine for nearfield or in a small room. Need any more and a sub can be added.
It's a very difficult price point when you are after a kit especially with the A$ being a tad low and the suppliers taking a larger chunk than the dollar is showing. An experienced DIYer would have less of a problem as can build the crossover and tweak etc.
Matt
Wiki speaker was of course my first recommendation, and if using the Peerless tweeter even better, but good drivers deserve good XO components and **BANG ** goes the budget.
The thing is Matt that if you have been using really good headphones a cheap speaker is probably going to disappoint you.
A pair P-13s from Speakerbits is going to cost $180 plus postage, they are a great little driver and have a good performance near field as Rabbitz said.
The Audax 6inch is probably better, perhaps at the top of the scale.
Think about it, but those drivers on Ebay won't last long
Rabbitz
I'm jealous, 3-way or 4-way design for the Coral????
Wiki speaker was of course my first recommendation, and if using the Peerless tweeter even better, but good drivers deserve good XO components and **BANG ** goes the budget.
The thing is Matt that if you have been using really good headphones a cheap speaker is probably going to disappoint you.
A pair P-13s from Speakerbits is going to cost $180 plus postage, they are a great little driver and have a good performance near field as Rabbitz said.
The Audax 6inch is probably better, perhaps at the top of the scale.
Think about it, but those drivers on Ebay won't last long
Rabbitz
I'm jealous, 3-way or 4-way design for the Coral????
Thanks for your help rabbitz and Moondog55.
I think I have two options (3 combos) now:
I just received an email from Ralph (Ralph Waters Loudspeakers) and this is what he had to say:
He seems to know what he's talking about and from the little I've read he is held in good regard around these parts.
I live in Cairns and would be willing to pay for a build crossover (parts + shipping) if anyone is willing haha. But from what I can gather the crossover for the wiki speaker is just a capacitor, a resistor and 'L1'... I can't figure what that is.
And the ebay speaker XO doesn't look to complicated either, if somebody has time they could possibly draw me up a quick schematic? (I've found one for the Wiki speaker).
I think I have two options (3 combos) now:
- Wiki Speaker (P13 + D27) $260 +GST&Shipping
- Ebay speaker (woofer + Tweeter) $240 + shipping
Both Audax - Ebay Speaker (woofer + Tweeter) $290 + shipping
SEAS Tweeter
I just received an email from Ralph (Ralph Waters Loudspeakers) and this is what he had to say:
He seems to know what he's talking about and from the little I've read he is held in good regard around these parts.
I live in Cairns and would be willing to pay for a build crossover (parts + shipping) if anyone is willing haha. But from what I can gather the crossover for the wiki speaker is just a capacitor, a resistor and 'L1'... I can't figure what that is.
And the ebay speaker XO doesn't look to complicated either, if somebody has time they could possibly draw me up a quick schematic? (I've found one for the Wiki speaker).
Personal opinion??
Buy from EBay, get the Peerless tweeter and the 6.5 inch Audax mid-woofer, make the sealed box version with some good quality acoustic filling and use the crossover that Ralph has given you, but include the impedance compensation ( Zobel ) and the "L-pad" on the tweeter.
The "L-pad" is used to match the SPL of the tweeter to the woofer/mid-range volume (SPL )
I recommend the sealed version because the natural bass roll-off of a sealed box is easier to match to a sub-woofer and that combination of drivers will be so good that you could use them for serious stereo listening at some future stage, also sealed boxes are easier to build.
$290 plus some high quality ( don't buy from Jaycar ) inductors and capacitors, will give you good if not great sound.
If I was allowed some purchasing I would be buying myself.
If you want to practice on a cheap set-up first the offer of those cheap drivers still stands.
There is a huge thread on what to build speaker boxes out of, read it through and make up your own mind but for an 8 to 10 liter sealed box, 18mm MDF will probably be fine for the sides but try and use 25mm for the front ( the front with the holes cut into it is called the baffle, if you can get a scrap of 32mm MDF then that would be even better .
Just remember that we speaker builders always talk about internal volume, external will be bigger, get the two drivers as close together as possible, and if your woodworking teachers have access to a large router table give the front edges as big a radius as possible, 55mm is good if you can scrounge some scraps of 32mm MDF for the front baffle.
Regards
Ted
Buy from EBay, get the Peerless tweeter and the 6.5 inch Audax mid-woofer, make the sealed box version with some good quality acoustic filling and use the crossover that Ralph has given you, but include the impedance compensation ( Zobel ) and the "L-pad" on the tweeter.
The "L-pad" is used to match the SPL of the tweeter to the woofer/mid-range volume (SPL )
I recommend the sealed version because the natural bass roll-off of a sealed box is easier to match to a sub-woofer and that combination of drivers will be so good that you could use them for serious stereo listening at some future stage, also sealed boxes are easier to build.
$290 plus some high quality ( don't buy from Jaycar ) inductors and capacitors, will give you good if not great sound.
If I was allowed some purchasing I would be buying myself.
If you want to practice on a cheap set-up first the offer of those cheap drivers still stands.
There is a huge thread on what to build speaker boxes out of, read it through and make up your own mind but for an 8 to 10 liter sealed box, 18mm MDF will probably be fine for the sides but try and use 25mm for the front ( the front with the holes cut into it is called the baffle, if you can get a scrap of 32mm MDF then that would be even better .
Just remember that we speaker builders always talk about internal volume, external will be bigger, get the two drivers as close together as possible, and if your woodworking teachers have access to a large router table give the front edges as big a radius as possible, 55mm is good if you can scrounge some scraps of 32mm MDF for the front baffle.
Regards
Ted
I'll contact him and see if he can hold the parts for a while, because according to my saving plan I can't spend some money before making a little more.
As for the Zobel, I think I understand.. just want to get one thing straight. Does the arrow mean that it then connects up to the tweeter?
Hopefully I can get a schematic of the crossover (with or without Zobel) of someone... I think that'll help alot! 😉
As for the Zobel, I think I understand.. just want to get one thing straight. Does the arrow mean that it then connects up to the tweeter?
Hopefully I can get a schematic of the crossover (with or without Zobel) of someone... I think that'll help alot! 😉
As this is a parallel XO the arrow is common or ground connection, the Zobel is in the correct position as it is actually part of the driver ( it is a conjugate circuit on the driver itself ) the crossover to the woofer then is simply a 0.6mH inductor.
While for the tweeter the crossover recommended is to follow Ralphs values the capacitor goes in series with the tweeter and the coil goes to ground that is it shunts some of the low frequency straight to ground and not through the tweeter.
The "L-pad" is part of the tweeter, its job is to lower the SPL of the tweeter to match the output of the woofer but keep the tweeters impedance level at (( what-ever value )) nominally 6Ohms.
Impedance is a constantly changing value depending upon frequency but DC resistance is fairly constant, and they are not the same crossovers are designed around the impedance of the driver not DC resistance, Zobels help keep impedance level.
I think you should ask the school and local library to get in a few books on building speakers
While for the tweeter the crossover recommended is to follow Ralphs values the capacitor goes in series with the tweeter and the coil goes to ground that is it shunts some of the low frequency straight to ground and not through the tweeter.
The "L-pad" is part of the tweeter, its job is to lower the SPL of the tweeter to match the output of the woofer but keep the tweeters impedance level at (( what-ever value )) nominally 6Ohms.
Impedance is a constantly changing value depending upon frequency but DC resistance is fairly constant, and they are not the same crossovers are designed around the impedance of the driver not DC resistance, Zobels help keep impedance level.
I think you should ask the school and local library to get in a few books on building speakers
Ted
The Coral will go into something very simple with a 1st order xo (series? or parallel?). I'm looking at a very low xo point of around 1500Hz (I'm punting on an Fs around 350hz) as this is a mid/tweeter. I have a few ideas with one being tweeter/mid part of a 3-way with OB mids that I can swap in and out on my mains or a high SPL MTM. I won't know until I get them and do some testing.
Matt
I've done a few numbers and a bit of modelling of this design.
I've attached a schematic of Raph's crossover. Ralph is on the money with his values as expected and I think the zobel is required as it does help with phase at the crossover point, the overall impedance and the impedance phase. For the few extra dollars it's worth it. His L-pad values gives a slight downward response (BBC dip?) very similar to what Troels uses on his designs.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
The crossover parts would be about $60-$80 depending on where you get them and a good source is Speakerbug. For the inductors you only need 18AWG air core.
http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/
If eventually you are really stuck on the crossover I can build it for you as I do get components at trade prices which is not a large saving on Speakerbug's prices as they have to be shipped to me. These would be Solen caps for the main ones, standard MKP for the zobel and similar gauge inductors.
I'm not sure about sealed on this driver as it does have a EBP of 117 which means it's more suited to vented. Sealed would have very little bass output below 90Hz but Ralph would know more as he is experienced with this driver. Of course a sub changes the choice. I'd go with a 15 litre vented minimum but that means a bigger box. So Matt, you can see 2 different opinions. Depends on your application.
You have to sit back and work out exactly what your needs are, how big a box you can have, where they are going to be located and how much bass you require so you can decide on sealed or vented. This design is very flexible but needs your input to work out the best option. The other thing you have to add in is cost of shipping of the bits and pieces. It's not a large amount but does add up and you don't need any surprises.
Ralph is one of this country's best loudspeaker designers and I have actually bought a pair of his Richters back in the 1980's.
One of the beauties of this driver combination is at a later stage you can build a floorstander (around 25 litres) out of it and that would be a very nice speaker indeed.
For construction hints see that guide in the link at darcher audio I posted. It shows you how to build a loudspeaker as well as design one. Save a copy of each page as it's being hosted for a short period of time and can disappear at any time.
Don't forget the CSS FR125 fullrange option as it's very economical. It's no slouch either but would not have the long term flexibility of Ralphs. I do a have a friend in Melbourne who seems to prefer it to a Scan Speak Revelator based speaker but he's a tube head so what do you expect. 😉
Don't worry if I disappear for a few days and don't answer your questions... I'm restricting my computer use for health reasons but I'll be back and will answer.
The Coral will go into something very simple with a 1st order xo (series? or parallel?). I'm looking at a very low xo point of around 1500Hz (I'm punting on an Fs around 350hz) as this is a mid/tweeter. I have a few ideas with one being tweeter/mid part of a 3-way with OB mids that I can swap in and out on my mains or a high SPL MTM. I won't know until I get them and do some testing.
Matt
I've done a few numbers and a bit of modelling of this design.
I've attached a schematic of Raph's crossover. Ralph is on the money with his values as expected and I think the zobel is required as it does help with phase at the crossover point, the overall impedance and the impedance phase. For the few extra dollars it's worth it. His L-pad values gives a slight downward response (BBC dip?) very similar to what Troels uses on his designs.
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm
The crossover parts would be about $60-$80 depending on where you get them and a good source is Speakerbug. For the inductors you only need 18AWG air core.
http://speakerbug.com.au/shop/
If eventually you are really stuck on the crossover I can build it for you as I do get components at trade prices which is not a large saving on Speakerbug's prices as they have to be shipped to me. These would be Solen caps for the main ones, standard MKP for the zobel and similar gauge inductors.
I'm not sure about sealed on this driver as it does have a EBP of 117 which means it's more suited to vented. Sealed would have very little bass output below 90Hz but Ralph would know more as he is experienced with this driver. Of course a sub changes the choice. I'd go with a 15 litre vented minimum but that means a bigger box. So Matt, you can see 2 different opinions. Depends on your application.
You have to sit back and work out exactly what your needs are, how big a box you can have, where they are going to be located and how much bass you require so you can decide on sealed or vented. This design is very flexible but needs your input to work out the best option. The other thing you have to add in is cost of shipping of the bits and pieces. It's not a large amount but does add up and you don't need any surprises.
Ralph is one of this country's best loudspeaker designers and I have actually bought a pair of his Richters back in the 1980's.
One of the beauties of this driver combination is at a later stage you can build a floorstander (around 25 litres) out of it and that would be a very nice speaker indeed.
For construction hints see that guide in the link at darcher audio I posted. It shows you how to build a loudspeaker as well as design one. Save a copy of each page as it's being hosted for a short period of time and can disappear at any time.
Don't forget the CSS FR125 fullrange option as it's very economical. It's no slouch either but would not have the long term flexibility of Ralphs. I do a have a friend in Melbourne who seems to prefer it to a Scan Speak Revelator based speaker but he's a tube head so what do you expect. 😉
Don't worry if I disappear for a few days and don't answer your questions... I'm restricting my computer use for health reasons but I'll be back and will answer.
Attachments
I forgot.... the tweeter is connected reversed polarity as shown in the sketch. The +ve lead is connected to the tweeter -ve terminal.
Thought I'd save you some head scratching.
Thought I'd save you some head scratching.
Thanks for the reply rabbitz. I saved all those pages, cheers. 😀
And the schematic puts everything in better perspective!!
I'd mainly be using speakers in my bed room or study (2.5m x 5m)ish, and on rare occasions in a lounge room of decent size. I want to use the speakers mainly for listening/monitoring music.
I really wanna keep costs down, so I have to ask:
The speakers I'm using at the moment are some cheap Logitech x540. So I doubt I'll be disappointed with the sound out of any of the kits.
However if I drop $350 (+ extra costs) on the speakers alone then it'll be a while before I can afford to build a chip amp for them!
I'll keep sussing everything out and I won't rush into anything as I've just had word from Ralph that he'll hold the parts for two weeks for me.
Hopefully between then I can decide on enclosures, crossovers, components and whatnot... with everyones help!
As for enclosure I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to wack them together myself or with the help of my dad, no problem.
Just to clear it up, ported basically just means I cut a hole in the back?
And the schematic puts everything in better perspective!!
I'd mainly be using speakers in my bed room or study (2.5m x 5m)ish, and on rare occasions in a lounge room of decent size. I want to use the speakers mainly for listening/monitoring music.
I really wanna keep costs down, so I have to ask:
- is the SEAS tweeter worth twice as much as the Audax?
- Is the ebay combo better then the wiki pairing?
The speakers I'm using at the moment are some cheap Logitech x540. So I doubt I'll be disappointed with the sound out of any of the kits.
However if I drop $350 (+ extra costs) on the speakers alone then it'll be a while before I can afford to build a chip amp for them!
I'll keep sussing everything out and I won't rush into anything as I've just had word from Ralph that he'll hold the parts for two weeks for me.
Hopefully between then I can decide on enclosures, crossovers, components and whatnot... with everyones help!
As for enclosure I'm pretty confident that I'll be able to wack them together myself or with the help of my dad, no problem.
Just to clear it up, ported basically just means I cut a hole in the back?
Thank-you rabbitz.
Matt are you managing to follow most of this??
You could start with a sealed and progress to a vented box if you felt that the bass was insufficient, in which case use cheap chipboard to build with.
Even so you have to remember to use bracing and to tie opposite sides together, you want the box to be as dead as possible.
The wiki combo is good, very good even and I have a full set of those drivers which I will be using myself, the combination of the SEAS tweeter and that particular Audax woofer would be half as good again as it can be driven harder and is a little more efficient.
The SEAS tweeter is VERY good, well worth the extra cash.
Matt are you managing to follow most of this??
You could start with a sealed and progress to a vented box if you felt that the bass was insufficient, in which case use cheap chipboard to build with.
Even so you have to remember to use bracing and to tie opposite sides together, you want the box to be as dead as possible.
The wiki combo is good, very good even and I have a full set of those drivers which I will be using myself, the combination of the SEAS tweeter and that particular Audax woofer would be half as good again as it can be driven harder and is a little more efficient.
The SEAS tweeter is VERY good, well worth the extra cash.
OK, thanks Moondog55. Sounds good.
I'm going to sell off my old speakers and anything else that I'm not using to fund this stuff.
I'm going to sell off my old speakers and anything else that I'm not using to fund this stuff.
The SEAS is twice as good as the Audax and then some. In the wiki speaker it bettered a Vifa D27TG (as per the original design) and the Vifa XT25TG.
I think the SEAS / Audax combo would be a more satisfying speaker in the long term as it can grow as the need arises where as the wiki speaker is just that and on the limit of the design. Move into your own place in years to come and you can use all the parts and just build a new box to extend the bottom end to give lower bass for a larger room or for taste.
When you are using them in your room, just keep them as far away from you as you can or toe them out a little as they are not a nearfield speaker.
A good amp is certainly required with speakers such as these but it's not a race. Build 1 project at a time and in the end it will all come together which is the final goal.
When you have decided and the time comes I'll do a box drawing for you.
A vented box has a port (tube) that starts from a hole in the back of the box and goes inside the box. It's length determines the box (bass) tuning (Fb). Have a read of that guide over the next week and it will make it a lot clearer. It's been written in as simple terms as I could.
If you have a look at this picture, it shows the port tube (white PVc pipe on the left) and this is a removeable back panel from a box. When it's installed, the port and crossover are inside the box. If you grab a cardboard box, seal it cut a hole and stick a toilet roll tube in it and that becomes the same as a vented box. Tap the box while having your ear up to the tube and you'll hear the box tuning frequency set by the tube. Put the tube in a larger box and tap again and you'll hear it's a lower frequency as the box volume has increased but the port has remained the same length... hence it's tuned lower.
I think the SEAS / Audax combo would be a more satisfying speaker in the long term as it can grow as the need arises where as the wiki speaker is just that and on the limit of the design. Move into your own place in years to come and you can use all the parts and just build a new box to extend the bottom end to give lower bass for a larger room or for taste.
When you are using them in your room, just keep them as far away from you as you can or toe them out a little as they are not a nearfield speaker.
A good amp is certainly required with speakers such as these but it's not a race. Build 1 project at a time and in the end it will all come together which is the final goal.
When you have decided and the time comes I'll do a box drawing for you.
A vented box has a port (tube) that starts from a hole in the back of the box and goes inside the box. It's length determines the box (bass) tuning (Fb). Have a read of that guide over the next week and it will make it a lot clearer. It's been written in as simple terms as I could.
If you have a look at this picture, it shows the port tube (white PVc pipe on the left) and this is a removeable back panel from a box. When it's installed, the port and crossover are inside the box. If you grab a cardboard box, seal it cut a hole and stick a toilet roll tube in it and that becomes the same as a vented box. Tap the box while having your ear up to the tube and you'll hear the box tuning frequency set by the tube. Put the tube in a larger box and tap again and you'll hear it's a lower frequency as the box volume has increased but the port has remained the same length... hence it's tuned lower.
Attachments
Ok, that makes alot more sense now.
I have AutoCAD so have been doing a few little drawings according to enclosure volume, size of drivers and tweeters.
Comes out at about 13L without factoring in thickness of the woof. I also don't know the inner dimensions of the woofer. But I'll post a PDF of my drawings once I have better look around. 🙂
Hopefully the LM3875 DIY chip amp will be sufficient. That's what I was looking towards, mainly because of the solid kit available from Audiosector.
I have AutoCAD so have been doing a few little drawings according to enclosure volume, size of drivers and tweeters.
Comes out at about 13L without factoring in thickness of the woof. I also don't know the inner dimensions of the woofer. But I'll post a PDF of my drawings once I have better look around. 🙂
Hopefully the LM3875 DIY chip amp will be sufficient. That's what I was looking towards, mainly because of the solid kit available from Audiosector.
This thread has made me question my own choice of drivers now.
I'm seriously thinking of divorce and purchasing these myself ( well perhaps not divorce ) but until now I had thought that my choice of the Vifa D27-45-06 or the similar Peerless tweeter was OK.
That is the problem with this addiction, the thought that once finished you could have done better, or thought experiments that make you lust after just one better than the current project.
Matt, I'm glad we were able to help, just start saving for a pair of good sub-woofers when you have finished these.
Don't forget to document the build and post plenty of photos.
I have a personal preference for Bi-amping and electronic cross-overs for low frequency cross to the sub, lots of very good kits out there and good chip amp should be usable for sub-woofer work if not pushed too hard.
But you won't need the subs they will just be the icing on top of
the cake.
Useful links
http://sound.westhost.com/index2.html
http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project81.htm
Regards
Ted
I'm seriously thinking of divorce and purchasing these myself ( well perhaps not divorce ) but until now I had thought that my choice of the Vifa D27-45-06 or the similar Peerless tweeter was OK.
That is the problem with this addiction, the thought that once finished you could have done better, or thought experiments that make you lust after just one better than the current project.
Matt, I'm glad we were able to help, just start saving for a pair of good sub-woofers when you have finished these.
Don't forget to document the build and post plenty of photos.
I have a personal preference for Bi-amping and electronic cross-overs for low frequency cross to the sub, lots of very good kits out there and good chip amp should be usable for sub-woofer work if not pushed too hard.
But you won't need the subs they will just be the icing on top of
the cake.
Useful links
http://sound.westhost.com/index2.html
http://sound.westhost.com/project09.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project81.htm
Regards
Ted
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