Assembled it for >50v version. Easy to work with. I just noticed that my Vdrop is little higher than in my previous builds. It is about 2.3-2.4V.
Is it normal?
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Is it normal?
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Yes, that is normal. If you want lower you can replace the red LED with 3 1N4148.
EDIT: Hmm, I'm not sure. What is the voltage across the LED?
EDIT: Hmm, I'm not sure. What is the voltage across the LED?
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I did not measured V access it, but I see very low current is running through it during continues operation. It's blinks for 1/2 sec during start as well as my green LEDs and still show very little light after that. Greens are totally off after initial blink. Not big deal with such Vdrop for me since I have sufficient margin.
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So what you have isn't exactly what's on the PCB. If you used the green LED for the stock PCB, then yes the voltage drop will be higher. That is for high current versions. For normal KM you use a red LED.
Sorry for confusion and please consider that I use Red LED for KM, but I also I use 2 Green LEDs is series and 2 UG1B for my >50V version.
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Sorry, I never got the notification that this thread has changed. It's better to PM me because sometimes I never find out when someone posts in the thread.
Luckily, there is good news however. I have new PCBs with corrected silkscreen. So if you still want boards, let me know.
As for BOM, this image covers a few different options for the board.
Luckily, there is good news however. I have new PCBs with corrected silkscreen. So if you still want boards, let me know.
As for BOM, this image covers a few different options for the board.
Attachments
As for BOM, this image
covers a few different options for the board.
Can the LED be replaced with LM336, 2,5V? Specifically, this at least could be good for the higher current version. [Sorry should try first but I'm lazy in the summer
No, the resistance of the LED is actually good for the circuit. A precision or low noise reference here would not make it more precise or lower noise. The LM336 probably doesn't work well at low currents anyways.
hello Kean
I need a kmult for my new amp IPS.
The rails are around +-60Vdc... what should be the correct version ?
I need a kmult for my new amp IPS.
The rails are around +-60Vdc... what should be the correct version ?
Ricardo, I use it in my two Salas phono Raw DC modules with no regrets. Elegant solution to treat Vripple. Can send you my pictures today later.
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Thank you guys I will use the knult on my new power amp just after the voltage doubler.
Please heva a look at what is happening here..... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...r-amplifier-assemblage-vii-2.html#post4866372
Please heva a look at what is happening here..... http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...r-amplifier-assemblage-vii-2.html#post4866372
I have just build a Keantoken cfp according to the stock schematic with C1 = 470uf nichicon fw, cout = 220uf, r1 = 220R instead of 47r and r load = 10ma, npn = bc337, pnp = pzta56. I measured it with the QA400 connected to external 38db amp, the Keantoken was feed from lt3471 step up from 3.7v battery to 7v. Here is the result:
Look quite good but using the same setup, i swap the Keantoken for a simple capacitance multiplier (C1 = 470uf), noise figure is significant better:
The Lt3471 alone:
And Lt3471 with tps7a4701 look the best:
People often blame the Lm317 for it noise but i found it to be very good ( this is a desktop power supply using transformer):
Look quite good but using the same setup, i swap the Keantoken for a simple capacitance multiplier (C1 = 470uf), noise figure is significant better:
The Lt3471 alone:
And Lt3471 with tps7a4701 look the best:
People often blame the Lm317 for it noise but i found it to be very good ( this is a desktop power supply using transformer):
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