Hi!
We are dealing with some big loudspeakers here:
Furybox 530,9 litters;
Above TH 24x30x48 562 litters;
And that Tuba 60 with 894,19 litters; May we trust that chart as groundplane, without walls beside?
I made two of that Tuba 36 (the spl charts are still on the site in spite the design has disapeared); I think it disapeared to late!
Regards,
We are dealing with some big loudspeakers here:
Furybox 530,9 litters;
Above TH 24x30x48 562 litters;
And that Tuba 60 with 894,19 litters; May we trust that chart as groundplane, without walls beside?
I made two of that Tuba 36 (the spl charts are still on the site in spite the design has disapeared); I think it disapeared to late!
Regards,
I'm not competing with anyone, my big box was an outdoor install answer to "how do you get 40hz ?"
Well, the T60 was news to me, however I just looked... 3x3x5, and only 97db@40hz@2.83v? Labs are 6ohm, not 8ohm.... And the 3ohm dual lab12 version referenced at 2.83 volt? Hmmm.... that's not 1 watt.... I think in the future, I'll keep my 102db@40hz@2.83v (8ohm driver) cabinet design, rather than build a T60.
BF has been asked repeatedly to design an 'end firing' sub, ala autotuba -- so I applaud him for doing that. It looks like another BF design that needs to be run in packs of 4-16, I personally live in the 1-4 world.
thanks for the info.
Increased S5 for Ben's TH
Hi Ben,
Just one more note: you may have noticed that I did not redraw the horn path to allow for area lost to bracing (in part because I don't know how much bracing you will use, and what the actual thickness of your material is). It does not seem to matter much to Hornresp. What does improve things is to just open up the S5 area leaving the rest as is. Is that real?
Regards,
Hi Ben,
Just one more note: you may have noticed that I did not redraw the horn path to allow for area lost to bracing (in part because I don't know how much bracing you will use, and what the actual thickness of your material is). It does not seem to matter much to Hornresp. What does improve things is to just open up the S5 area leaving the rest as is. Is that real?
Regards,
I tried not using the rear handle and wheel cutouts. I didn't like the sound at all. You might be able to leave out the bottom wheel one but youll need some sort of reflector where the handles are if you wish to leave it out. Adding the two reflectors instead of cutting the side of the box is pretty darn easy. You need the first one to have your high end response work. If you are only pushing below 80hz. You can probably leave them all out, but don't try to get response above 80hz. You'll get a little more bottom end at the cost of 80hz and up. Remember the 3015/4015 simply runs out of xmax QUICK at 30-35hz limiting your bowel shaking abilities. When some of those gut wrenching "the world sucks, you suck, I suck, everything sucks and it aint gonna get better so go kill someone" rap tunes come on, we have to drop the bass (normally it is FLAT! with a 35hz 48db cutoff)
or the windows will get blown out and people have gotten sick. Tapped horns get really wicked as you crank them (like a guitar amp) unlike anything else. The one watt measurements are not enough, 100w measurements are better, but in practice they sound totally different at higher power levels where pink noise would fry the speaker before you could get a measurement.
Sorry I have not posted in awhile but I'm trying to stay afloat. The bins are doing great and have not blown up or blown themselves apart yet after one year, 5x a week, 7 hours a nite. I'd love a little more transient response but I cant build anything new for quite a while till the economy gets better. The modded omnitops have performed well without failures as well.
or the windows will get blown out and people have gotten sick. Tapped horns get really wicked as you crank them (like a guitar amp) unlike anything else. The one watt measurements are not enough, 100w measurements are better, but in practice they sound totally different at higher power levels where pink noise would fry the speaker before you could get a measurement.
Sorry I have not posted in awhile but I'm trying to stay afloat. The bins are doing great and have not blown up or blown themselves apart yet after one year, 5x a week, 7 hours a nite. I'd love a little more transient response but I cant build anything new for quite a while till the economy gets better. The modded omnitops have performed well without failures as well.
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I've had many pro sound guys admit that watt for watt and size to size they couldn't match what the 6 tappeds are doing in the club with only 2400 watts total redlined.
They often spec 12,000 watts and 4-6 double 18's.
They often spec 12,000 watts and 4-6 double 18's.
Modded omnitops
Screamer, would you also recommend I mod my omnitop 15 cabs? Just block off the ports and put in proper handles?
Btw, you and jbell have persuaded me to try building your fury box, once I have done my proof of concept using the plans Oliver kindly designed (and my old wood).
Thanks for the explanations regarding use of reflectors!
Regards, Ben
Screamer, would you also recommend I mod my omnitop 15 cabs? Just block off the ports and put in proper handles?
Btw, you and jbell have persuaded me to try building your fury box, once I have done my proof of concept using the plans Oliver kindly designed (and my old wood).
Thanks for the explanations regarding use of reflectors!
Regards, Ben
Scott, good to hear from you, thought maybe the tornado's got you.... (tornado's are not just for kansas anymore...)
salz
I would try temporarilly blocking those ports with a couple of exterior panels.
I have been having issues with my 12" modded omnitops where I have blocked
the side handle/ports on the stage side to stop 2 feedback nodes.
I used some heavy polyfoam cut to fit into the handles so I can remove it easilly for transport.
The omnitop 15 should go down to 80 easilly so you don't need to be as finiky as I did as I have 12 inch tops. With all due respect to BF, The omnitop 15/12 matched with either Jbell or furybox variants simply kick butt at real world rock and roll volumes while the Titan starts farting. With the ot15 you can concentrate on lower ranged subs. JBells subs might be better in your case especially if you only plan to use 2 total. Mine work best in pairs+, I.E. 2 cabs per side at 4 ohm off one amp channel per side or 3 cabs at 2.6 ohm per side.
Try building one with one side removed (no glue anywhere). Use the silver foil nashua air conditioning duct repair tape to seal everything on the attached side.
Then use armaflex air conditioning tape (black foam) on the edges of the
unattached panels so when you attach the side, it seals but you can remove
the side to tweak away. That's how I Figured out the fury box.
When you are done you'll probably get a couple of DB more out of the finished and glued versions.
I would try temporarilly blocking those ports with a couple of exterior panels.
I have been having issues with my 12" modded omnitops where I have blocked
the side handle/ports on the stage side to stop 2 feedback nodes.
I used some heavy polyfoam cut to fit into the handles so I can remove it easilly for transport.
The omnitop 15 should go down to 80 easilly so you don't need to be as finiky as I did as I have 12 inch tops. With all due respect to BF, The omnitop 15/12 matched with either Jbell or furybox variants simply kick butt at real world rock and roll volumes while the Titan starts farting. With the ot15 you can concentrate on lower ranged subs. JBells subs might be better in your case especially if you only plan to use 2 total. Mine work best in pairs+, I.E. 2 cabs per side at 4 ohm off one amp channel per side or 3 cabs at 2.6 ohm per side.
Try building one with one side removed (no glue anywhere). Use the silver foil nashua air conditioning duct repair tape to seal everything on the attached side.
Then use armaflex air conditioning tape (black foam) on the edges of the
unattached panels so when you attach the side, it seals but you can remove
the side to tweak away. That's how I Figured out the fury box.
When you are done you'll probably get a couple of DB more out of the finished and glued versions.
Kick drum via tapped horn warning
If you are like me and want your kick drum tone to hit below the belly button or
under the bass guitar. You need a mic than can do that as well.
check the specs. Many kickdrum mics stop at 50hz and are punchy as in hitting the chest but you cant get that dance club/live staduim concert roar. Some of the Audio tech and Audix mics go to 35/40hz. You really appreciate your tapped frankenstiens when you use the right mics.
Happy thumping 🙂
If you are like me and want your kick drum tone to hit below the belly button or
under the bass guitar. You need a mic than can do that as well.
check the specs. Many kickdrum mics stop at 50hz and are punchy as in hitting the chest but you cant get that dance club/live staduim concert roar. Some of the Audio tech and Audix mics go to 35/40hz. You really appreciate your tapped frankenstiens when you use the right mics.
Happy thumping 🙂
screamersusa, would it be possible to get a clearer drawing, with actual angles, of your Fury boxes? Thanks.
Nicely done. I have sketched up something similar as a concept, but have not built one folded like that yet.
Post #168
Hi screamerusa,
Could you, please, elaborate on your tweaking procedure (I don't quite get where which tape goes), and how you measured while tweaking.
Regards,
Hi screamerusa,
Could you, please, elaborate on your tweaking procedure (I don't quite get where which tape goes), and how you measured while tweaking.
Regards,
here is an old link.
In the middle of the page is a top view of an open cth24. see the silver tape on the seams? You seal the seams with the heavy nashua foil tape.
When you initally build the cab: Leave one side panel off. Reach in and seal up the seams with the foil tape. Then use the black ac tape as a gasket for the side that was left off just like a valve cover gasket. It does help to mark the screw holes or drill them first. It avoids the use of glue for initial research projects.
The foil tape will take quite a beating so low wattage testing and a few blasts
won't hurt at all. When you are ready to make a tweak or add/subtract something, unscrew the side with black tape gasket and you now have access to the internals. Make your changes and go test it again.
I wound up reusing wood alot while I was working the cabs out. The foil tape is awesome to cover both sides of a screw hole saving lots of $ in the playing process. I use it to fix leaks in rental cabinets or someone elses crap when I can't use my systems.
The thinner foil tape is cheaper but very difficult to remove. I prefer the more expensive heavy foil. Somewhere in the thread is the manufacturers number.
TAPPED
In the middle of the page is a top view of an open cth24. see the silver tape on the seams? You seal the seams with the heavy nashua foil tape.
When you initally build the cab: Leave one side panel off. Reach in and seal up the seams with the foil tape. Then use the black ac tape as a gasket for the side that was left off just like a valve cover gasket. It does help to mark the screw holes or drill them first. It avoids the use of glue for initial research projects.
The foil tape will take quite a beating so low wattage testing and a few blasts
won't hurt at all. When you are ready to make a tweak or add/subtract something, unscrew the side with black tape gasket and you now have access to the internals. Make your changes and go test it again.
I wound up reusing wood alot while I was working the cabs out. The foil tape is awesome to cover both sides of a screw hole saving lots of $ in the playing process. I use it to fix leaks in rental cabinets or someone elses crap when I can't use my systems.
The thinner foil tape is cheaper but very difficult to remove. I prefer the more expensive heavy foil. Somewhere in the thread is the manufacturers number.
TAPPED
In case anyone gets any hairbrained ideas....
I built a jbell type cabinet with fancy gaskets and hinges so I could tweak the
whole box in real time while under test. Too many air leaks. Dont bother.
I built a jbell type cabinet with fancy gaskets and hinges so I could tweak the
whole box in real time while under test. Too many air leaks. Dont bother.
For 3 15 inch boxes..... 2-3 furysubs would be the best per side however 2 of jbells bigger ones might work a tad better than two furysubs. I run 3 furysubs per side (or all 6 centered) under 3-5 12" modded otops per side.
Most of your power will be need in the mids. Disregard all the rules here and consider the same amount of power for the mids as the subs. This will keep the
system clear as a bell. I have made high end Meyer users/owners raise an eyebrow when they hear the system in show.
Screamers:
Lest you think you are the only nut - here's the current subject...
Pretty much every clamp I own on there now, still leaks a little, but it is sealed well enough for testing. I used cut nails to locate the panels, weatherstrip to seal the internals.
Lest you think you are the only nut - here's the current subject...
Pretty much every clamp I own on there now, still leaks a little, but it is sealed well enough for testing. I used cut nails to locate the panels, weatherstrip to seal the internals.
It seems to work pretty well for POC #1 🙂.
The response graph indicates however that the lower cutoff point is a bit higher than HornResp predicts. I thought it might be due to me getting the path length wrong, but now I'm wondering if it is because HornResp doesn't model the effect of losses.
Screamers:
Lest you think you are the only nut - here's the current subject...
Pretty much every clamp I own on there now, still leaks a little, but it is sealed well enough for testing. I used cut nails to locate the panels, weatherstrip to seal the internals.
I'll see your nuttiness mike, and raise you a couple more... just started gluing these up tonight. Man I like that HomeDepot 3/4".... never thought I'd hear myself say that. I'm going to play with the front a little before the guts get glue, but highlighted is what I'm going to try first. (thanks oliver for the S5 thought.)
Attachments
Things are moving pretty fast here
It seems that by the time I build some cabs, you guys will have rendered them obsolete with superior designs.
I am very impressed by the innovation on this forum!
Equally, I wish I could, but currently I can't afford the time needed to play around with a cabinet and tweak it to perfection. Currently my workshop and home are many miles from one another. Next to a regular job it's not easy to dedicate the time needed to such a project.
How do you all manage it?
Ben
P.S. Screamer - Thanks forthe pointer regarding omnitops versus subs!
It seems that by the time I build some cabs, you guys will have rendered them obsolete with superior designs.
I am very impressed by the innovation on this forum!
Equally, I wish I could, but currently I can't afford the time needed to play around with a cabinet and tweak it to perfection. Currently my workshop and home are many miles from one another. Next to a regular job it's not easy to dedicate the time needed to such a project.
How do you all manage it?
Ben
P.S. Screamer - Thanks forthe pointer regarding omnitops versus subs!