those are huge
please excuse me, but ive never seen anyhting like that before. that speaker in the exhaust port??? doesnt the sound beat on it? the size seems, detrimental. Does the internal design really kik that much ***? i got 4 jbl 2225hs and am looking for something to do with them, just about the same specs as those eminence. i was thinking of a dual cab, speakers on horizontal plane side by side, pointed down with a scoop turning, the sound exit port forward out the bottom. 22inches tall x 39"wide. not sure of depth yet. any suggestions?? please step up lol thanx
please excuse me, but ive never seen anyhting like that before. that speaker in the exhaust port??? doesnt the sound beat on it? the size seems, detrimental. Does the internal design really kik that much ***? i got 4 jbl 2225hs and am looking for something to do with them, just about the same specs as those eminence. i was thinking of a dual cab, speakers on horizontal plane side by side, pointed down with a scoop turning, the sound exit port forward out the bottom. 22inches tall x 39"wide. not sure of depth yet. any suggestions?? please step up lol thanx
Jim's is a nice, simple build, and it works great if you do not have to move it. Seriously, these things are BIG. Almost LABsub big. If you're plaining to move them at all, you can get very similar performance out of a smaller cabinet.
Screamer's design is probably the best proven DIY Tapped Horn designed for PA out there now. I ran a quick sim that I posted in another thread about the 3015. It simulates within a few dB of Jim's horns, plays a little lower, takes the same power, and is about 1/2 the size (approx. 12 cubic feet).
I have not built this yet - just pushing pixels. As I do not have the drivers or the need at the moment, I posted it for others to play with.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/152667-3015lf-2.html#post2018346
Screamer's design is probably the best proven DIY Tapped Horn designed for PA out there now. I ran a quick sim that I posted in another thread about the 3015. It simulates within a few dB of Jim's horns, plays a little lower, takes the same power, and is about 1/2 the size (approx. 12 cubic feet).
I have not built this yet - just pushing pixels. As I do not have the drivers or the need at the moment, I posted it for others to play with.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/152667-3015lf-2.html#post2018346
Is slot loading relevant for tapped horns?
Hi guys,
I am very seriously considering building a set of these cabs, the design for which JBELL has so generously shared. I mostly used to spend my time on another forum - but I kinda like it here, I may stick around - I do of course have some preconceived notions and related questions.
Is slot loading relevant or even useful for tapped horns?
Would the bracing added to a 1/2 inch version still give me a lighter box than the barely braced 3/4 inch thick cabinet?
Mouth guard:
I am thinking about making a frame, placing 2 layers of steel reinforcing mat, with speaker grille foam sandwiched in between. Not sure what kind of catch or hinge system to use, but we'll get there.
Thank you all!
Ben
Hi guys,
I am very seriously considering building a set of these cabs, the design for which JBELL has so generously shared. I mostly used to spend my time on another forum - but I kinda like it here, I may stick around - I do of course have some preconceived notions and related questions.
Is slot loading relevant or even useful for tapped horns?
Would the bracing added to a 1/2 inch version still give me a lighter box than the barely braced 3/4 inch thick cabinet?
Mouth guard:
I am thinking about making a frame, placing 2 layers of steel reinforcing mat, with speaker grille foam sandwiched in between. Not sure what kind of catch or hinge system to use, but we'll get there.
Thank you all!
Ben
Hello ben, I think I know which forum you speak of.....
Only build my big box if you are going for install. Build scott's box if you need to transport. Scott has it figured out, right down to the bracing, and even to the point that if you use a solid rear brace, it hurts performance. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ecific-tapped-horn-thread-54.html#post1829572 There is blood sweat and tears in that design, and it works.
The great thing is.... drum roll please... 40hz is not -13db down from 100hz, it's pretty much flat. Steep high pass at 40hz, or don't build -- the high pass is not an option.
http://www.screamersusa.com/furybox.html
Only build my big box if you are going for install. Build scott's box if you need to transport. Scott has it figured out, right down to the bracing, and even to the point that if you use a solid rear brace, it hurts performance. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subw...ecific-tapped-horn-thread-54.html#post1829572 There is blood sweat and tears in that design, and it works.
The great thing is.... drum roll please... 40hz is not -13db down from 100hz, it's pretty much flat. Steep high pass at 40hz, or don't build -- the high pass is not an option.
http://www.screamersusa.com/furybox.html
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Thank you Jbell! I have been eagerly reading that thread. Scott seems to have put in one hell of a lot of work!
Stcott's plans look good to me, the bottom left image confuses me a little though! Has he lopped the corners off, or do the dogears (sorry to use the term, not sure what to call them!) actually indicate where triangles/wedges are attached to narrow that side of the chamber?
Your design appealed to me because my dad has retired and I'm busy at my day job, so to speak. He offered to build some cabinets for me. And I thought your design had a wonderful simplicity to it, which would make life easier for a newbie builder, especially thanks to the fairly straightforward angles...
If I understand correctly, Screamer's design provides similar response and maximum output. In exchange for a degree of build complexity his is a smaller package.
Thanks for helping me out!
Ben
sorry about the redundant question, here come more pertinent ones!
Jbell
- sorry, I was only looking at the PDF.
furybox cleared up that question re. dogears for me!
The 1W/1m response is 103 ish from 40 Hz upwards?
As long as I put in a steep low cut, power handling is limited to 450W Pe (as opposed to being excursion limited) ?
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I simply can't fit enough of my current design (36" x 36" x 30" cubes...) into my van, and size is always important. Now if the output is better too, what more could I desire?
Thanks again!
Ben
Jbell
- sorry, I was only looking at the PDF.
furybox cleared up that question re. dogears for me!
The 1W/1m response is 103 ish from 40 Hz upwards?
As long as I put in a steep low cut, power handling is limited to 450W Pe (as opposed to being excursion limited) ?
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. I simply can't fit enough of my current design (36" x 36" x 30" cubes...) into my van, and size is always important. Now if the output is better too, what more could I desire?
Thanks again!
Ben
You got it...
Ahh... 36x36x30.... the reason I'm not on that particular forum anymore is from a quad of 36x36x36 fiasco where the posted spl chart was measured indoors.... and go figure, outdoors I couldn't reproduce that amount of noise...
yes 103ish from 40hz on up. big difference from 95ish. Yes pe limited, not xmax limited above 40hz.
Scott's box is not that bad, the 12degree angles he just cuts flush 90, leaves the 1/2" sticking out and uses PL to smooth everything out.
PL, now there's some wonderful, sticky, impossible to get rid of stuff....
on a side note. I just purchased some good ply from home depot, and I was shocked. "cabinet ply" is 7 even layers at 3/4" and looks as good as auroco, and only $23. Never thought I'd get good ply at HD. I've been shopping ply at lowes only lately.
good luck, and post pics of your efforts. Comparison with your current 36x36x30's would probably be appreciated as well.
Ahh... 36x36x30.... the reason I'm not on that particular forum anymore is from a quad of 36x36x36 fiasco where the posted spl chart was measured indoors.... and go figure, outdoors I couldn't reproduce that amount of noise...
yes 103ish from 40hz on up. big difference from 95ish. Yes pe limited, not xmax limited above 40hz.
Scott's box is not that bad, the 12degree angles he just cuts flush 90, leaves the 1/2" sticking out and uses PL to smooth everything out.
PL, now there's some wonderful, sticky, impossible to get rid of stuff....
on a side note. I just purchased some good ply from home depot, and I was shocked. "cabinet ply" is 7 even layers at 3/4" and looks as good as auroco, and only $23. Never thought I'd get good ply at HD. I've been shopping ply at lowes only lately.
good luck, and post pics of your efforts. Comparison with your current 36x36x30's would probably be appreciated as well.
Problem is...
3 weeks ago I ordered the wood for 4 30" T48 cabinets. I only found out about tapped horns after the wood had been cut. Should I keep the wood for bracing (a hell of a lot of bracing)? Or should I build the cabinets and dream of tapped horns...
As my dad is feeling a little more confident about tapped than folded horns - it's all in the scary angles), I guess I have a whole lot of bracing and firewood
If only other forums mentioned tapped horn technology!
P.S. Very true re. the power of PU! I have some formerly flabby trousers that are now nearly bulletproof, and certainly can stop a handsaw blade. Great stuff.
The benefits of PU, plywood, neo magnets, piezo arrays and lots of DIY mean I won't feel bitter over the wasted wood, but still...
3 weeks ago I ordered the wood for 4 30" T48 cabinets. I only found out about tapped horns after the wood had been cut. Should I keep the wood for bracing (a hell of a lot of bracing)? Or should I build the cabinets and dream of tapped horns...
As my dad is feeling a little more confident about tapped than folded horns - it's all in the scary angles), I guess I have a whole lot of bracing and firewood
If only other forums mentioned tapped horn technology!
P.S. Very true re. the power of PU! I have some formerly flabby trousers that are now nearly bulletproof, and certainly can stop a handsaw blade. Great stuff.
The benefits of PU, plywood, neo magnets, piezo arrays and lots of DIY mean I won't feel bitter over the wasted wood, but still...
Do what I did, you see my simple up and back cabinet that I built out of cheese-o plywood? That was my "prove it to myself" cabinet. You can get 3/4" subfloor from HD for $12, build a box with that, no bracing -- add driver, test, burn cabinet when done.
That test should tell you if your contemplation of tapped horns is worth it to you or not.
Here's my 2c on "if you have 3015lf's and want to decided FLH vs TH" If you are going to run 4 or less, go TH hands down, if you are going to run a pile, and size is no issue, FLH might win depending on design. If you are going to be primarily where you don't have a wall or corner, go TH. If you are always going to be in a corner, FLH.
so... it's kinda up to you, but I think a test cabinet is worth the building, and it roasts hot dogs wonderfully when done.
edit: ps, I think I can come up with a pretty good TH that is exactly the size of a T48.... which would preserve your investment in plywood if you really are interested.
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I'm happy to throw my hat into the ring on this too, let me know if you want/need the help Jim.
Oh, believe me, tapped horns have been mentioned on a certain other forum, results there were pretty much as expected, hence the move here. Back when I searched for an appropriate venue, the best discussions I found were here, though several other forums are pretty active too.
That would be fantastic!
Thank you JBell and Mike!
That is tremendously generous of you both.
The cut wood cost me just under 500 Euro for four 30 inch wide 48.
Small fry for some, but a lot of cash for me.
I don't know what other Europeans have experienced, but quite frankly I envy you all when I read how cheap wood is in the USA.
I am very interested. In fact, I have been juggling the internal bits of my Titans to see whether they can be used. I assume the basic outer shell and sides of the Titan could be used with minimal adjustments necessary, the mouth too, but the rest is, at the moment, and for the foreseeable future, beyond me.
Is there something I could do to compensate for the time you are putting into this? Maybe a guided tour of Salzburg when you come over to visit? Local specialities? I am a professional translator, so if you have German horn manuals needing translation, I'm your man!
Thank you all!
PS. I don't get it. Why doesn't you know who simply begin to test, compare, design and offer THs in addition to his regular cabs?
That would keep everyone happy, and him in business!
QUOTE=littlemike;2131139]I'm happy to throw my hat into the ring on this too, let me know if you want/need the help Jim.
Oh, believe me, tapped horns have been mentioned on a certain other forum, results there were pretty much as expected, hence the move here. Back when I searched for an appropriate venue, the best discussions I found were here, though several other forums are pretty active too.[/QUOTE]
Thank you JBell and Mike!
That is tremendously generous of you both.
The cut wood cost me just under 500 Euro for four 30 inch wide 48.
Small fry for some, but a lot of cash for me.
I don't know what other Europeans have experienced, but quite frankly I envy you all when I read how cheap wood is in the USA.
I am very interested. In fact, I have been juggling the internal bits of my Titans to see whether they can be used. I assume the basic outer shell and sides of the Titan could be used with minimal adjustments necessary, the mouth too, but the rest is, at the moment, and for the foreseeable future, beyond me.
Is there something I could do to compensate for the time you are putting into this? Maybe a guided tour of Salzburg when you come over to visit? Local specialities? I am a professional translator, so if you have German horn manuals needing translation, I'm your man!
Thank you all!
PS. I don't get it. Why doesn't you know who simply begin to test, compare, design and offer THs in addition to his regular cabs?
That would keep everyone happy, and him in business!
QUOTE=littlemike;2131139]I'm happy to throw my hat into the ring on this too, let me know if you want/need the help Jim.
Oh, believe me, tapped horns have been mentioned on a certain other forum, results there were pretty much as expected, hence the move here. Back when I searched for an appropriate venue, the best discussions I found were here, though several other forums are pretty active too.[/QUOTE]
To be blunt, it would be a bad business decision. While not patented yet(as far as I know), tapped horns are patent pending, and the patent holder would frown upon such infringement. Additionally, proper design is not something that is easily arrived at, as it requires a different approach than conventional horn design, often using different drivers. Finally, it would dilute the current line of products and muddy the waters even further as far as which sub is best for what.
Tapped horns are compromises, like every other enclosure out there. No free lunches, but they certainly work well when they are designed and built well.
What dimensions do you have the wood cut into?
Yes, that makes sense. Also his designs have satisfied many customers, so he has a fanbase and loyal following. It would also make these people wonder if he added or switched to a whole new design.
I agree re. copyright. I certainly don't want to infringe, and respect the decisions of others who think likewise.
That's right. My sides are 24 x 48 - I have eight of these.
All other pieces are cut to 29" wide to give 30" total width with 1/2 inch plywood sides.
If I understand you correctly, I need to discard the sides as they are not deep enough.
If we have a width of 22.5, my existing internal sheets are also all the wrong size.
Is there no way to build the TH sideways? Wide as opposed to deep?
My 30 inch width is the TH depth. My 24 inch depth is slightly larger than the TH width.
Would you try unfolding and refolding Screamer's box to utilise my parts?
Anyway, this weekend I'm building 4 more Omnitop 15 (with my girlfriend and dad!), but hopefully the subs can follow next week.
My other question - how many Screamer Furys to match 3 OT15 per side?
regards, Ben