Iron Pumpkin(s) and other smaller vegetable animals, Tips 'n' Tricks thread

and now, after few dayz of acclimatizing ears and brain, what you can tell about your level of foot-tapping?

care to reveal/elaborate about ZM's major ookup in soldering job, Turtle module?
I'm practically Fred Astaire with the foot tapping.

I wasn't going to talk about that other bit, but I feel kinda backed into a corner. @Zen Mod didn't know this, but my biggest fear in this project was unsoldering the turtle. My soldering skills are weak, but my unsoldering skills are way worse. When I initially fired up the Pumpkin, everything worked perfectly... except that at volume 4 I got a buzz in the left speaker. We engaged in some debugging, but eventually the word came down, "You've gotta remove the turtle and check things out." I broke out in a sweat. Fortunately @KevinHeem gave me a few tips when he'd visited a few days beforehand, and I removed the turtle without doing any damage.

Lo and behold, I found one end of a diode unsoldered. It was a fix even I could (and did) undertake. Problem solved.

I built this thing to kinda scratch an itch, but I've come away with a deep sense of how much Zen Mod obsessed over its design. The board layout is thoughtful and pretty incredible. The turtle is amazing. I wonder about the number of hours invested in the design and execution of that thing. The logic system works really well. The included remote is a lovely CNC item, totally in keeping with the first-rate aspect of the whole package. Used Apple remote? Nope.

Bottom line: very, very satisfied.
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Lo and behold, I found one end of a diode unsoldered.

to clarify - that's "just" overlay symbol of diode, in parallel with relay coil ....... diode is not present while relay (coil) certainly is ....... even with one pin not soldered :rofl:

no better way than to have them (diodes) piggybacked at relay coil pins on bottom side, but that's option solely for arrangement with rotary switches commanding Turtle and input select

frankly, using sturdy rotary switches and relays having eeeny current and minuscule inductance, most likely protection diodes aren't really necessary

now, when everything commanded with logic module, no need for those diodes at all, simply because they're already implemented in darlington array chips, situated on logic/TFT pcb

all in all, Blind ZM didn't soldered one relay coil pin, and damn thingie passed all electrical tests

while flying to US of A, silly pin reseated, lost contact in pad via, ZM's negligence revealed


how's that saying ......... (literally translated from Serbian to ZMEngrish) ...... Even the Sword does not cut the Penitent's head

I am ready to connect the turtle to the motherboard, so here is my dumb question of the day.
On the MB there are connections for AVCR-, AVCR+ AND AVCGNDR but on the Turtle there is B_IN1, A_IN AND GND_A. I assume that AVCR- goes to B_IN1, AVCR+ to A_IN and AVCGNDR to GND_A.

Place for Turtle.jpg
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3 short wires (bare, leftovers of resistor legs or diodes or thin wire) goes straight vertical (no twisting) from MoBo pads framed as "TO LOWER TURTLE LEVEL", to lower deck of Iron Turtle [B_IN1, A_IN, GND_A]

solder them from MoBo bottom and in between two decks of AVC

3 long wires (insulated thin solid core) goes straight (no twisting) from MoBo pads framed as "TO UPPER TURTLE LEVEL", routed through rectangular hole in lower Turtle deck, then slightly leaned to upper deck of Iron Turtle [B_IN1, A_IN, GND_A]

solder them from MoBo bottom and from top of AVC

same logic applies for output sets of wires

thin leftover wires from pads [A_OUT, B_OUT, GNDOUT] from lower deck goes short way straight vertical to [ALOUT, BLOUT, GNDLOUT] on MoBo

long insulated thin solid core wires from pads [A_OUT, B_OUT, GNDOUT] from upper deck goes slightly leaned but straight-no twisting to [AROUT, BROUT, GNDROUT] on MoBo

I know I have several pictures specifically saved for that, but in this moment easier to write than "systematic" search in my pc - can't remember how I called them :rofl:
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I've been through this thread and the other one linked at the start multiple times now and I think I have a handle on my upcoming build. One happy discovery is that I already have all of the necessary electrolytic caps in my parts box! Looks like I'll have to bend some legs on the 1N4148 diodes D1, D3, and D2 - I don't have any surface mount tools...

Since my Iron Pumpkin uses switches and the instructions say to omit IC1, I'm presuming that M1 doesn't need to be electrically isolated from the sink (I'm using the 2021 SE kit) - is this correct?

Also, I'm a bit surprised not to find a single 220R resistor on the board. Does Nelson approve of this part omission? ;)

I just placed an order with Antek. Before I place my Modushop order (400x400mm Pesante chassis), do you have a DXF or DWG file with the nice custom engraving for the faceplate that you've previously posted?