Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

Jump to Latest
#3,361
^ Exactly. Once one learns to channel the Mighty One, you can form metal with sheer will.

Dennis Hui said:
But not so much that they turn into Burning amps. 🙂
Click to expand...
Am I that bad at humor / sarcasm? Clearly ... YES! :joker:

My Iron Pre is LN2 cooled. :rofl:

......

I was just trying to say that I am heavily biased toward the Iron Pre just given how much time I've spent on it. Then... joking that it was just "pretty good" vs. the absolutely phenomenal pre-amplifier that I know <sarc> it is.

I'll stick to my day job... :rofl:

Edited b/c my computer seems to think that we can use our animal trimming skills to help form metal... hmmmm... maybe it got it right.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Russellc and birdbox
#3,366
timkrone said:
One day (last December!) IAIMH asked for volunteers to build the SMD version of the Iron Pre, and I said (screamed), “Pick me!” I think I was supposed to hustle, but I had to acquire transformers and then I had some scope creep and then I messed up the first rear panel and so on. But here it is. It has CineMags, Frank Wilker’s MUSES solution (here and here) and a too-big Antek transformer. Making lemonade out of my ordering lemons is a hallmark of my DIY audio experience.

Building it went really well. I’m pretty sure I screwed something up and had to re-do it, but I’ll be darned if I can remember what it was. Setting the operating voltage, the current and DC offset was straightforward and without issue.

It sounds fantastic, and I'm very happy that I purchased Frank's MUSES setup. Gianluca was, as always, exceedingly accommodating with my half-baked chassis ideas. Big, big thanks to all involved.
Click to expand...
Hi timkrone,

I am about to do final assembly of a balanced IP similar to yours with Frank's Muses controller. How did you mount your LCD screen to the front panel?

Thanks,
Alan
 
#3,369
Hi Alan,

Yes. Gianluca did the faceplate. I paired a very old Apple remote, and it works well from 20 feet away. I've got the receiver crammed in there tight against the front. Enlarging the hole doesn't sound like a bad answer, but I might try a different remote first, just in case.

Good luck!
Tim
 
#3,371
The LEDs I have on hand ( leds for the twister board and faceplate holes) are the smaller "flat" shaped ones, the illustration shows the more bullet shaped ones, and it seems like they would fit the holes better on the faceplate.

I guess shapes change, anyone have a part number that is bullet shaped? Didn't see one in guide materials. I guess it doesn't matter, but the back side of holes seems it would fit better, with the tip just showing through the drilled holes.

Maybe they just don't make that shape any longer?. Hoping it's just a variation, these little flat ones

Thanks

Russellc
 
#3,373
I used these and they fit perfectly in the Modushop Iron Pre chassis...flat top 5mm. 100 qty for $7+tax. Round, but flat top. Even came with 100 resistors I didn't use, but tucked them away for another use.
Screenshot_20240402_153709_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20240402_153716_Chrome.jpg
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom