Did you shorten your ribbon cable? It looks like the clamps on each end may open somehow, but its lightweight plastic and I sure do not want to break the only one I have. Mine is WAY longer than yours! I guess it doesnt matter, no signal involved, but mine is long enough it isnt very tidy. I will try searching ribbon cable connections and so forth.
Russellc
I did not shorten it. I did fold up a little origami style to bend how I wanted and even folded a little lengthwise to get it fit in the slot of the chassis.
Re reading this thread, I thought I forgot about c11 silkscreen being reversed. However I note it says boards marked 2023. Mine are 2021
so this isnt an issue for these boards marked 2021? I soldered it in according to silkscreen, which note says is reversed for 2023. Am I good to go, or do I need to flip the c11 around?
I ask because my boards silkscreen is just like shown, with the + on the right side of the cap.
Russellc
so this isnt an issue for these boards marked 2021? I soldered it in according to silkscreen, which note says is reversed for 2023. Am I good to go, or do I need to flip the c11 around?
I ask because my boards silkscreen is just like shown, with the + on the right side of the cap.
Russellc
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if 2021 on pcb, neg of cap closer to IRF, so you're good
judging by pic in #3404
you always have "+" marked inside cap circle; additional one outside circle (to allow later check) is, well, additional, additionally placed by Mighty ZM,as addition
so, in most cases addition being proper, in rare cases not so
judging by pic in #3404
you always have "+" marked inside cap circle; additional one outside circle (to allow later check) is, well, additional, additionally placed by Mighty ZM,as addition
so, in most cases addition being proper, in rare cases not so
Russ, You made me laugh. I wonder how many times that I have done this or that and think, 'what were the chances?' Sometimes it is a stupid move and I get it, other times it doesn't hardly seem possible that 'it' happened. About 4 days ago, something fell off of a shelf as I bumped it getting up, and then it fell down and broke my soldering iron in half. Really? Wasn't even heavy enough to do that, right? I temporarily repaired it using old parts, and promptly ordered a new and different station.
The used commercial hakko I used for years, and bought off swap meet here, broke in half. I was in the middle of soldering and it just folded in half. I did my self a favor and bought a Hakko FX 951. Great rig. I see hakko clones on eBay that are likely as good for a fraction of cost.
Well, I kind of did myself the same favor. The Hakko 888D? dunno, has been not as good as I would like in general. mostly wand troubles. Anyway, found NIB old 963 Hakko bought by a guy had two of them just in case one broke. The first is still working and so he decided to sell the extra one. I am really hoping that there isn't a surprise with this station. It was the predecessor to the 888D. I just didn't want to spend big bucks on what I think should be a slam dunk at anything more than $100. I paid $150 for this one, and $135 for the last one. Geez.
signal wiring really not having anything with power side of things
take "power" as relative thing in Iron Pre, it's not bloody oven
so, yes - read setting procedure and accordingly set everything, whenever you want........ and do the signal wiring whenever you want
in my neck of wood, Baku 936D is selling for peanuts...... well, comparing to Hakko prices
not Hakko quality, quite normal, but few tricks are already known
- right away supergluing junction of handle with heater, it gets wiggly with time otherwise
- buying bunch of various Quick 936 tips - that's real deal
not Hakko quality, quite normal, but few tricks are already known
- right away supergluing junction of handle with heater, it gets wiggly with time otherwise
- buying bunch of various Quick 936 tips - that's real deal