Someone gotta tell me where this fugly comes from 😂 I keep reading it in many threads
@banderson546 Congrats on your new build!
and dead quiet!
find extending rod, move that Alps all the way back
as 6mm rod guide for front use front side of old pot - just dismantle it and screw to front plate
rod-pot connecting sleeve (name??) - if there is no handy one, everywhere selling for CNC builds, you can use short pieces of gasoline hoses with 5mm ID, clamped with zipties
@nicoch58 ....no need for my blessing, even if I'm Mighty
you have Eagle sshot, parts placement and renders - post them for Greedy Boyz amusement
Now they're in Post #1 😉
Enjoy!
I recognize this is hardly worth the bother to the others building the Iron Pre kits however, I bought a few extra Fujitsu Takamisawa RY-24W-K relays (from Surplus Electronics) and CK1060 rotary switches (from Newark) as a sort of impulsive reaction to having to pay shipping from so many different suppliers. But I really don't need to stockpile more stuff.
If there are a few folks in the US who would like to buy a rotary switch and some relays, message me. I would just charge exactly what I payed ($1.50 per switch and $2.50 per relay) plus First Class Mail. You will save ~$16 on shipping compared to buying them directly.
If there are a few folks in the US who would like to buy a rotary switch and some relays, message me. I would just charge exactly what I payed ($1.50 per switch and $2.50 per relay) plus First Class Mail. You will save ~$16 on shipping compared to buying them directly.
I'll be on the lookout for some Pot Extending hardware to take it to the next quietest level!find extending rod, move that Alps all the way back
as 6mm rod guide for front use front side of old pot - just dismantle it and screw to front plate
rod-pot connecting sleeve (name??) - if there is no handy one, everywhere selling for CNC builds, you can use short pieces of gasoline hoses with 5mm ID, clamped with zipties
But right now with shielded cable it's pretty darn quiet!
Minarai - That's extremely generous. The Lorlin twisters are currently out of stock at Mouser and Relays are in short supply everywhere.
🙂
🙂

So looking at the schematic for the Balanced board, if I only have SE inputs I can just jumper across relay K6 and not install it. Do I need to populate C12 and D10?
Pot pad bypass would be CW+ to WIP+ and CW- to WIP- for not having the Iron Pre do Volume control.
Pot pad bypass would be CW+ to WIP+ and CW- to WIP- for not having the Iron Pre do Volume control.
no jumpers for K6, no C12 & D10
short CW+ to WIP+
no short needed between CW- and WIP-
you can also omit all components in neg buffer side - jfets, bjts, caps, resistors
short CW+ to WIP+
no short needed between CW- and WIP-
you can also omit all components in neg buffer side - jfets, bjts, caps, resistors
Kits arrived fine well packaged, thanks' a lot all.
I may be tempted to use the jfets and the cinemags for a M2 or an F6
shall I go for M2 or F6?
I may be tempted to use the jfets and the cinemags for a M2 or an F6
shall I go for M2 or F6?
Examplefind extending rod, move that Alps all the way back
as 6mm rod guide for front use front side of old pot - just dismantle it and screw to front plate
rod-pot connecting sleeve (name??) - if there is no handy one, everywhere selling for CNC builds, you can use short pieces of gasoline hoses with 5mm ID, clamped with zipties
It's Alive...
Is it the front toggle switching the transformer primary? Would it be safer to switch secondaries instead? Or use a plastic switch?
I will probably omit the front switch. TBD
These parts provide a more fancy soluion. Available on Amazon, but you can find these parts elsewhere too...
Attachments
Would it be safer to switch secondaries instead?
no
case is on safety gnd, and switches as that are used for eons for smaller gadgets mains, without problems
nope you gain lover thd plus nickel react better to small signal....is the high nickel content of the cinemags an handicap to build an M2?
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