Thanks Patrick. I think Jim's Balanced Build Guide will answer most remaining questions, but I will read this entire thread. I'm looking at that Lorlin switch that fits the "Twister" board. How does that switch work? It doesn't seem to rotate to different positions that would allow you to select an input....
jm
^ My gut tells me that you've taken the nuts off of the post, and/or that the insert is not in the notch / the nuts are loose.
Not at a place now that I can post a pic easily, but ... just make sure that the little tab on the notched washer is in slot #6 (or how ever many positions you want). The twister board is set up for 6 positions: "mute" and 5 inputs.
Cheers!
Not at a place now that I can post a pic easily, but ... just make sure that the little tab on the notched washer is in slot #6 (or how ever many positions you want). The twister board is set up for 6 positions: "mute" and 5 inputs.
Cheers!
No, I didn't take the nut off the post. I checked and the tab on the notched washer is in slot #6.
It's just a bit stiff. It's plastic and I was afraid to put too much pressure on the shaft. It does turn when you apply force. I'm going to build it with this selector switch, but I may wind up using something different.
Thanks,
John
It's just a bit stiff. It's plastic and I was afraid to put too much pressure on the shaft. It does turn when you apply force. I'm going to build it with this selector switch, but I may wind up using something different.
Thanks,
John
^ AHA - That makes sense. Try the knob you intend to use with it. When you mount it, I think you'll be surprised how 'appropriate' the amount of force needed to rotate may be. I totally understand where you're coming from now... without the knob and the extra ooomph from the extra circumference / mass etc. it's tough as heck to rotate. Fully understood. 🙂
Hi folks,
I would like to ask few questions regarding SE - SMD version:
1. Is there any recommended fixed value for trim pots before soldering (power supply and buffer)?
2. Build guide Step 3 clearly marks 3 sections. Blue – power supply, green – IN/OUT and red section – buffer and transformer section. Would be a better option to be finished power supply and In/Out sections first? This way I can verify power supply and In/Out section (along with switching) without damaging buffer section if something goes wrong 😊.
3. In lack finding appropriate transformer, as an option?
Tnx
Tony,
I would like to ask few questions regarding SE - SMD version:
1. Is there any recommended fixed value for trim pots before soldering (power supply and buffer)?
2. Build guide Step 3 clearly marks 3 sections. Blue – power supply, green – IN/OUT and red section – buffer and transformer section. Would be a better option to be finished power supply and In/Out sections first? This way I can verify power supply and In/Out section (along with switching) without damaging buffer section if something goes wrong 😊.
3. In lack finding appropriate transformer, as an option?
Tnx
Tony,
Middle is totally fine. An approximation using # of turns is perfectly appropriate.
You can certainly populate the PSU section first and test it...
Then buffer and transformer ... then I/O. The buffer could be tested independently, but the transformer is just a passive hunk of metal and wire, so I'd test them together in the circuit. You can test the transformer for resistance / continuity before installing it. I would. It's rare, but I've seen people catch those tiny wires on things and break them. They're a pain to desolder, and they're relatively expensive, so ... a few minutes could be worthwhile.
I always check one input / output with my testing rig before wiring up all the rest of the ins/outs and buttoning up the chassis. In the rare event something is "wrong", it makes it much easier to take the board back to the bench.
My $0.02.
I will let ZM review that part. 🙂
find appropriate xformers
1. this Drek deserves
2. more mains iron inside (whatever size), more possibility of magnetic interference with signal iron; that's Bad Juju
@ItsAllInMyHead ... thank you for the suggestion!
@Zen Mod ... I'll do my best..
Thank you both,
Tony
@Zen Mod ... I'll do my best..
Thank you both,
Tony
Hi guys,
I'm still fighting my way through my Wolverine amplifier build, but I bought the Zen Iron Pre Balanced kit and chassis. I've read through 112 pages of this forum and......I have a bad headache. But, you guys are a true riot! Regarding inputs/outputs if I understand correctly any of the five inputs could be wired for single ended devices. Do I have that right? What about the outputs? Can I wire one balanced out and one single ended? My DACs are mostly balanced, phono stages are all single ended. I have commercially built amps that I can connect balanced, but all the amps I've built are single ended (F4, F6, Wolverine, ST70, M125, etc. I would prefer not to build balanced to single ended cables unless there is a sonic advantage over wiring the preamp connections.
Second, the discussion around the power rating of the donuts is a little all over the place. But what I got from it is 20 VA is plenty for the single ended Iron Pre. Am I best off using two 10 VA transformers for the balanced version in order to avoid interference with the other magnetics? The price difference between 10 VA and 25 VA is minimal. While I have Toroidy transformers for the Wolverine, I am thinking ANTEK for the Iron Pre. Putting them under steel covers is no problem.
And finally, after using both ALPS and Eizz pots in the past I'd be lying if I said I could hear a difference. Channels on both stereo pots seem to track well. On the balanced pre we are using mono pots. What taper and impedance? In the thread I see 10k pots mentioned; not sure about the taper. Also, does anyone have a U.S. source for extension rods and bearings for audio pots? I want to mount the pots close the where they wire into the boards.
Apologies for the long blah, blah, blah. I'm trying to understand the hardware I need to get so I can acquire before the build starts this Winter.
Best to all,
John
I'm still fighting my way through my Wolverine amplifier build, but I bought the Zen Iron Pre Balanced kit and chassis. I've read through 112 pages of this forum and......I have a bad headache. But, you guys are a true riot! Regarding inputs/outputs if I understand correctly any of the five inputs could be wired for single ended devices. Do I have that right? What about the outputs? Can I wire one balanced out and one single ended? My DACs are mostly balanced, phono stages are all single ended. I have commercially built amps that I can connect balanced, but all the amps I've built are single ended (F4, F6, Wolverine, ST70, M125, etc. I would prefer not to build balanced to single ended cables unless there is a sonic advantage over wiring the preamp connections.
Second, the discussion around the power rating of the donuts is a little all over the place. But what I got from it is 20 VA is plenty for the single ended Iron Pre. Am I best off using two 10 VA transformers for the balanced version in order to avoid interference with the other magnetics? The price difference between 10 VA and 25 VA is minimal. While I have Toroidy transformers for the Wolverine, I am thinking ANTEK for the Iron Pre. Putting them under steel covers is no problem.
And finally, after using both ALPS and Eizz pots in the past I'd be lying if I said I could hear a difference. Channels on both stereo pots seem to track well. On the balanced pre we are using mono pots. What taper and impedance? In the thread I see 10k pots mentioned; not sure about the taper. Also, does anyone have a U.S. source for extension rods and bearings for audio pots? I want to mount the pots close the where they wire into the boards.
Apologies for the long blah, blah, blah. I'm trying to understand the hardware I need to get so I can acquire before the build starts this Winter.
Best to all,
John
@jminassi if you get the modushop chassis, it has two outputs , one single ended one balanced.
Check out @6L6 fantastic build.
Post in thread 'Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest'
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...re-register-your-interest.390509/post-7764550
He had two balanced, three single ended.
Check out @6L6 fantastic build.
Post in thread 'Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest'
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...re-register-your-interest.390509/post-7764550
He had two balanced, three single ended.
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Yes, yes! I had not seen Jim's fantastic build.....that is exactly what I want to do with the inputs/outputs. I did buy the Modushop balanced chassis.
Thanks Jacruzer!
Thanks Jacruzer!
Jminassi, just a quick comment, for the Balanced Iron Pre you will need two stereo potentiometers or one 4 gang potentiometer.
Everything you need to know is in the first post of this thread either directly or via links to where the matter is discussed. I did not read post #1 thoroughly enough just to find out later that the answer to my question(s) could be found there.
I'm also building a balanced version. Just gathering the last bits of hardware and trying to find some time for building. 🙂
Everything you need to know is in the first post of this thread either directly or via links to where the matter is discussed. I did not read post #1 thoroughly enough just to find out later that the answer to my question(s) could be found there.
I'm also building a balanced version. Just gathering the last bits of hardware and trying to find some time for building. 🙂
Thanks Zleepy! I never built a balanced piece of gear before. I understand the concept of dual differential, but I think I am going to need Jim's Build Guide for the balanced version. I will re-read post #1.
Of course, all of this is based on my surviving the construction of The Wolverine😀.
Of course, all of this is based on my surviving the construction of The Wolverine😀.
Was having a Hum issue on my system that was driving me nuts. My Ajzm had a hum because I didn’t put brass standoffs on my psu, got that fixed. The hum was still there. Thought it was the Iron pre. I disconnected my source and connected it straight to my phone via rca, no hum.
Got to listen to some hum free tunes for a few hours last night and early this morning.
Peanut butter and chocolate baby!!! Sound is refined and layered. Hearing things I have never heard before on songs I listen regularly. Mind you this is just from my phone, not connected to a proper DAC.
Big thanks to @Zen Mod @ItsAllInMyHead and @birdbox
And of course, thanks to our patron saint @Nelson Pass
Happy DIY Tuesday,
Jose
Got to listen to some hum free tunes for a few hours last night and early this morning.
Peanut butter and chocolate baby!!! Sound is refined and layered. Hearing things I have never heard before on songs I listen regularly. Mind you this is just from my phone, not connected to a proper DAC.
Big thanks to @Zen Mod @ItsAllInMyHead and @birdbox
And of course, thanks to our patron saint @Nelson Pass
Happy DIY Tuesday,
Jose
Yes
Regardless of what chassis you use... for the balanced Iron pre, if you want SE outputs and balanced outputs, the traditional way to wire them is in parallel. So, both outputs are active at the same time. If you're connecting to an amp with balanced inputs, use the balanced outputs and vice versa.
No need. Just wire it up like the diagram in post #1. Swap out your amps with happy thoughts.
You need 20VA min per board. Get two 20VA for dual mono, which is the intention. I put some model numbers in post #1, I think.
Birdbox has some neat stuff. I think I got some commercial ones from Parts Connexion ages ago. Maybe these. If I recall... I didn't perceive them to be great value for money, and I think I needed to bore out the couplers for use with my pots. But... in a pinch, they worked.
Have fun!!! IMO, an absolutely phenomenal pre-amp.
