Iron Pre Essentials Kits For The DIYA Store - Register Your Interest

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#3,941
I like the "if you don't know what to build... then just build everything plan... 🙂 " Just my opinion of course. I think it's a good learning experience to see what works best in your own situation, and it's just plain fun to build and try different stuff out. I'm sure the less favorite piece could eventually be sold off to a fellow member.
 
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#3,943
Ok so one more time, what is the signal cable that so many of you like to use for this build? I want something that has flexibility and of course a shield for the inputs and outputs. What I am using is pretty but a real bear to work with.
 
#3,945
I took a photo of some various options.

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...re-register-your-interest.390509/post-7789215

I personally prefer the Mogami W2381 as it's super thin and flexible, but the center conductor requires a good means to strip the insulation off without damaging the delicate copper strands. I bought a fancy wire stripper just to help with this sort of delicate gauge wire (KNIPEX - 11 01 160 Tools - End-Type Wire Stripper (1101160)). W2330 works well, but the thicker outer shield is just a little harder to work with due to it's stiffness.

I'd avoid the W2333 due to the very thick shield as it's very thick outer insulator is clearly for use as a microphone wire for on stage use (durability when it gets stepped on and dragged around).

For all the wires listed in the post linked above, the "shield" of the wire is being treated as the ground/negative of a single ended connection as there is only the center conductor and a shield conductor wire.

Of course, there's always the option @Zen Mod suggested, which is using twisted solid CAT5 (or other Ethernet [CAT6, CAT7, CAT8]) wire. I'm sure it works just as good and is super easy to work with (not to mention, cheap, readily available, and comes out pre-twisted).
 
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#3,948
Thank you guys for the recommendations. I just ordered a bunch of 2330 so that is what I will try soon enough. I agree that the thin multiple strands take extra care to strip, so I will take my time getting it right.
There is a different project that I am working on right now that likely will have to be rewired because the length came up short. This just kills me after so much delicate work.
 
#3,950
celticray

Many thanks for the recommendation. Even on sale, this is out of my budget. Silver and all other metals have just priced themselves way above my budget and that is really too bad. Even when I am working with heavy construction steel, I often use scrap pieces because of price. Thank God for my bandsaw and welder!


Birdbox,

The wire stripper that you are referencing looks to be good. It is very hard to find one that can handle delicate 28 ga. stranded wire! I may order this one soon and see if it works for me. It's that damned insulation that can work against you, and I may also order some larger sized cable conductors just because of the challenge.
 
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#3,951
I just ordered a balanced essentials kit and I'll be using an AMB Delta 1 relay-based R-2R stereo attenuator. It has a calculator so you can choose your resistor values based several factors. I read that the recommended attenuator value is 10K but I don't know what the load impedance in KΩ of the iron pre smd is, as seen by the attenuator. I though I read 100K ohm but I'm not sure if that's correct. Can anyone advise?
 
#3,955
sbelyo said:
I though I read 100K ohm but I'm not sure if that's correct.
Click to expand...

if chosen attenuator is having specific resistor as "closing" value, nothing easier than replacing input resistor at buffer gate with that specific value

example - if I'm making resistor matrix attenuator of 24K impedance/resistance, it calls for final resistor of 24K

so, I'm just using 24K as JFet gate-to-GND position resistor
 
#3,958
Thanks, here a link to it in pdf form https://www.amb.org/audio/delta1/delta1_100_sch.pdf

These are the resistor values it generated for me with the value of Rin at 100K

Untitled.jpg
 
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#3,959
Zen Mod said:
say that Patrick can answer you directly, he did built them all
Click to expand...
I don't readily offer opinions re: sonics b/c everything varies between systems, brains, rooms, preferences; moreover, I am quite literally losing the hearing in my left ear. So, my opinion of how things sound compared particularly to my memories of how things may have sounded ages ago... is largely irrelevant.

I build things b/c it's fun. The Iron Pre is very fun. What I suppose might matter is that an Iron Pre stayed in my system for several years. Other things came along and tried to unseat the Iron, but it didn't happen until I built the Pumpkin. The Iron Pre seemed to work well with every amplifier I threw at it (from buffers to amps with what I'd consider 'high' gain). The fact that the PSU and input switching is 'on board' (to me) makes it an insanely versatile / easy-to-approach project.

The balanced version (to me) was my favorite. There was/is just something about it that worked. Plus, it does the super-neato trick of SE In and true differential out, which made it perfect for my system with a few SE and a few balanced sources. I put my money where my mouth was/is, and it was the first pre-amp that I paid for a professionally done chassis and built several versions. I have no idea why I liked it, I just did/do.

Like I've said... it's no secret that the Iron Pre has keeps a spot in my heart. The only one that I thought was maybe more fun was the ACP+ with the BJ2. As I recall, that combo had a softness / pleasantness to it that no recording from the loudness wars era could even make sound harsh. Completely different animals, IMO.

Hope it helps.
 
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