I see......25V after diodes. Then R3 R4 and R5 R6 voltage check could be a good checkpoint after ensuring that there are no cold joints. This one also look bad:
I remember - eons ago - not once I paid the price of my own negligence .... with entirely new set of parts and pcbs
and ...... getting them was several times harder than today
who said that learning is easy ....... and patience and care are given as Mana from Heaven?
and ...... getting them was several times harder than today
who said that learning is easy ....... and patience and care are given as Mana from Heaven?
If no components are misplaced and the solder bridge did not kill a transistor then it will probably work after cold joints have been fixed 🙂
Helper flux on the solder wick picked up all the solder right away…amazing I hadn’t had to do that yet.
But, this is what it looks like now.
Solder on?
But, this is what it looks like now.
Solder on?
^ It's likely just fine, and it's not anything to call out or worry about...
Since you were kind enough to post photos, it's a good example to discuss.
In your situation, you may have had a cold joint. That could have been an issue over time. The bridge would not have been an issue. Check the schematic and/or look at the boards. Those two pads share the same trace / they're connected.
An easier way to take care of that situation instead of attempting to remove all the solder may have been to add flux to the area and go in with a hot 'dry' iron. That would reflow the area around the two pads. The flux would hopefully have helped form more proper joints around the pads and may have separated the bridge. The iron would have taken up some of the excess solder. If the bridge hadn't separated... no biggie.
Given that the likelihood of board damage / lifting pads etc. is higher with solder wick, I use it as a last resort. Don't get me wrong... I'm quite handy with it... but I only use it when necessary, and typically only when I need to remove a part.
And... yes. Solder on.
Since you were kind enough to post photos, it's a good example to discuss.
In your situation, you may have had a cold joint. That could have been an issue over time. The bridge would not have been an issue. Check the schematic and/or look at the boards. Those two pads share the same trace / they're connected.
An easier way to take care of that situation instead of attempting to remove all the solder may have been to add flux to the area and go in with a hot 'dry' iron. That would reflow the area around the two pads. The flux would hopefully have helped form more proper joints around the pads and may have separated the bridge. The iron would have taken up some of the excess solder. If the bridge hadn't separated... no biggie.
Given that the likelihood of board damage / lifting pads etc. is higher with solder wick, I use it as a last resort. Don't get me wrong... I'm quite handy with it... but I only use it when necessary, and typically only when I need to remove a part.
And... yes. Solder on.
Perfect, thank you 🙂. I thought they shared a trace but wanted to deal with that bridge out of stubbornness.
I googled cold solder joints then turned my iron up a bit and will reflow everything. It has taken longer to flow joints on this build, despite being set to the same spot as all prior builds. According to the receipt itll be 13 next month, probably getting a little tired.
This doohickey has been priceless over the years, is the reason Ive never had to really use the wick until today:
I googled cold solder joints then turned my iron up a bit and will reflow everything. It has taken longer to flow joints on this build, despite being set to the same spot as all prior builds. According to the receipt itll be 13 next month, probably getting a little tired.
This doohickey has been priceless over the years, is the reason Ive never had to really use the wick until today:
mkane, few questions, and I need specific answers on each ........ simply because I can't fathom anything from #3087
- all resistors (values) in proper place?
- all transistors in proper place?
- all diodes in proper place?
- caps - I can see from pictures at least these are oriented properly
- DC voltage at inner side (outer being closer to pcb edge) of D1(D2) and D3(D4) , ref to gnd
- voltage across R3(R4) and across R5(R6)
- voltage at bases of T3, T4, T9, T10, all ref to GND
- voltage at each rail test pads (mid section of pcb, in between mosfets), ref to GND
When this fella hits the sack I’m on it. I’m sure all the parts are in their proper spots
just take care to have enough energy to play with Fella, when he demands
that's more important than Fella's Papa's toys
that's more important than Fella's Papa's toys
ZM gets schematic
ZM builds by schematic
ZM builds by schematic
You wouldn't believe how close this is to reality when I discuss the engraving of a faceplate with the local talent, on one of my projects.
components where they should be
D2/25.55vdc
D4/25,55vdc
R4/-3.1vdc
R6/ .621vdc
T3/ .083vdc
T4/ -.468vdc
T9/ .550vdc
T10/ -1.3vdc
test pads .623vdc/-2.69vdc
D2/25.55vdc
D4/25,55vdc
R4/-3.1vdc
R6/ .621vdc
T3/ .083vdc
T4/ -.468vdc
T9/ .550vdc
T10/ -1.3vdc
test pads .623vdc/-2.69vdc
R4 voltage is wrong it should be similar numerical value voltage drop as R6. It is a base-emitter PN-junction (diode) so about 0.6-0.7V voltage drop.
If no cold solder joints I would say the BC546 at positive rail (close to the BD139) is not functioning correct.
These small transistors can be a little hard to read. Are you sure it is a BC546?
Maybe show extra detailed pictures of this area front and back so we can check (I think you need to check if it is a BC546 else we need a really good close-up of this transistor).
If no cold solder joints I would say the BC546 at positive rail (close to the BD139) is not functioning correct.
These small transistors can be a little hard to read. Are you sure it is a BC546?
Maybe show extra detailed pictures of this area front and back so we can check (I think you need to check if it is a BC546 else we need a really good close-up of this transistor).
I just need confirmation - is that exactly measured "across" (each of resistors), meaning black probe one end of resistor, red probe other end of resistor?
same confirmation asked for, several times
it is not our part to check, just to remind of
photogoats are trickier to stare at, than real Goats
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stop, no use of more fiddling
pull out all actives, check them, replace what's needed, this time taking extra care in soldering and cutting protruding legs
if you don't have way to check actives ( say Mega testers from ebay are perfectly ok), just buy new ones
while actives out - check every resistor in pcb; if in doubt, desolder one pin and pull out
pull out all actives, check them, replace what's needed, this time taking extra care in soldering and cutting protruding legs
if you don't have way to check actives ( say Mega testers from ebay are perfectly ok), just buy new ones
while actives out - check every resistor in pcb; if in doubt, desolder one pin and pull out