I don't think they're complaining really. In fact they admit the ones they made are similar to each other...
Now really, i removed my layout, and both of guys compare my board with own boards claiming i copy design ...
What ever, i make new layout, and will go for fabrication !
Will post gerbers for anyone who want to make one ...
END of story !
For future reference, I make a point of retaining copyright, and I never
accept money for submissions.
That said, people need to buy a subscription to AX. It's the least they
can do for the efforts made for their benefit.
Hi Mr. Pass !
I make a logo for Preamlifier i am about to build and want to ask you about permission to use this logo !
In name ImPASSe i use sale font you use for your logo !
Thanx!
Attachments
I send him email and ask him, if he is OK, will go for it, if no, will just change font, easy like that ...
I have design for PCBs, but there my project stops. I go for BOZ to finish first my DCB1 build ... If DIY want design i can provide, but i never tested design in real life ... PCBs should be OK ...
ImPASSe PreAmplifier PCB !
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I emailed and was given a link to purchase an entire kit and the variations of it. Maybe they are really busy but willing to just one currently? I am an frightened because of the lack of a good, simple build guide, being my first real audio project and not having tools to verify how correct my work is and make proper adjustments. Looking at the description I could only guess that the part listed as "Impasse PCB with Depletion MOSFETs adjusted to 8mA" might be key and the kit listed with certain parts pre-installed might be enough.
Sy, the article you have up is good, and probably has all of the information needed but for me it is like reading something in a language I had a couple of semesters in 30 years ago. I sort of get it and could order a beer in that language but there is no real comprehension of the project.
That being said, based on my experience here I don't doubt that with the help of members of this board I could make some real progress on the Impasse.
I could swing the $105 for the basic kit, the Cinemag part I could obtain within a couple of weeks - found a source for a little less. Then the power supply... about a month before I have cash for that.
Of course if I quit reading this forum 8 hours a day I might be able to put that time towards generating more income.
Yesterday I ordered the F4 boards from the DIY Audio store for building two monoblocks, so prioritizing - or more likely hesitating on which to build first.
The word hesitating, I don't like it. It's something I fight constantly. If I get an honest opinion if this is something I can complete within a month with the help of a couple or more DIY Audio members and without buying additional tools (I have nothing to test audio, only a simple multimeter) - then I will destroy that hesitation, have a great preamp and if it doesn't violate copyright - some effort at a build guide from the perspective of a newbie.
I seem to be the oddball here because making the chassis is the part I actually look forward to. Other than heatsinks, I probably already have the materials and tools to do either the Impasse or the F4's in a combination of stainless, aluminum or oak.
I put a set of vias on the board so that you could add a "matching" resistor to get both halves to be of equal current. Pretty simple to do-- just use a 10k pot in parallel with Rset and adjust until the current is 8mA -- remove the potentiometer and le voila, you've gotthe value you need to put in parallel.
In this case it was 2.37k.
This one didn't use WIMA's -- wanted to try another manufacturer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
In this case it was 2.37k.
This one didn't use WIMA's -- wanted to try another manufacturer.
The problem with the OPA1632 is the the rail voltages are limited to +/-16V, but to fully drive the F4 requires an input swing of +/-20V. I built an Impasse using Jackinnj's PCB and use it to drive an F4 (single-ended) from the output cathode follower. Unless you are using a pair of F4 channels in bridged mode, the Impasse balanced output is not necessary.
Looking at the OPA1632 datasheet, it looks like a single-ended output swing of about +/-14V is the most you can expect when driven differentially. That would produce about 12.5 watts RMS output into an 8 ohm load. The max output is even lower when driven single-ended.