The best way to measure current would be to use a clampmeter because there is no direct contact to the circuit. A spike of voltage that high would probably break down the dielectric in the multimeter so using an inline current meter would be a bad idea. It's no big deal, you are right, if Ushio is making these then they have PFC so the input power measured of 183W is probably right so ~150 W at the bulb is likely.
rmpmla, thanks for the info. That's interesting because it could mean that the reason that commercial PJ bulbs are rated at 2000 hr bulb life is because they are being used with AC rather than DC. One must then wonder: if the PJ is converted to DC, will be bulb last 6000 hours? I have my doubts because a PJ maker could switch to DC and advertise 3x the bulb life and way more light output.... it would add some cost to the PJ but a consumer would see that it would pay for itself several times over. I dunno.
rmpmla, thanks for the info. That's interesting because it could mean that the reason that commercial PJ bulbs are rated at 2000 hr bulb life is because they are being used with AC rather than DC. One must then wonder: if the PJ is converted to DC, will be bulb last 6000 hours? I have my doubts because a PJ maker could switch to DC and advertise 3x the bulb life and way more light output.... it would add some cost to the PJ but a consumer would see that it would pay for itself several times over. I dunno.
18wheeler said:
You da man, 18wheeler I hadn't thought of that and I think you are right that it would work. I think you would need to make sure that the bulb is good and warm so any glitch in swithcing the power doesn't cause the bulb to go out. Did anyone get the first ballast or did YWH switch before he started sending them out so we can figure out if that one can support 250W.
I still think that lighting the bulb is probably the hardest part and we should be able to figure out a way to increase the current from 150W to 250W and get the full brightness its only DC so that makes it easier, no waveforms or current profiles to be worried about. So I'm still optimistic that these bulbs may be the best solution but it may be a little more work than just buying a ballast. Either removing the current limiting parts of the PMA161 or paralleling a second current source (maybe another pma161 with ignition removed to provide double current, tuned down to only add another 100W). As I've said I'm no expert at power supply stuff but as this is DIYaudio there must be some power amp guys here that have designed high wattage stuff and we only want DC not low noise 20-20KHz audio.
slodki said:
The picture shows all the details of the 150W eballast. I bought it from www.antz.com.au but it looks like they don't have it in stock at the moment. They used to have a 250W eballast as well. I'll ring them on Monday. The 150W eballast is for a HID lamps which I believe use AC. From what I've read using DC on a normal HID MH lamp is bad for it, causes the gases to seperate and deposit on one electrode.
ywh, 18 wheeler - Can I get one of the original 250W 220V ballasts? Does the original 250W ballast have any writing on it to say that it actually is a 250W ballast? got any pics of it?
prime said:
I think im going to try to get my hands on the 250W ballast that ywh found as well. That was an AD or DC ballast? How much?
prime, let us know how you go with trying to get a 250w ballast from the link you gave to me.
SHLO...................Did you lamp have the white epoxy holding the lamp into place? if so how did you remove the old lamp? Also I forgot to mention The 12 UHP bulb of mine has a glass Front to it( some I have seen without IE its just open to the bulb)......dunno if thats gonna be a issue for me or not.
Also, I saw YWH's post about the ballest people saying it was 2000 Hrs and the Bulb manufacturer saying it was something else. But In my browser I dont see that Other number I just see a buch of iiiiiiiiiiii eeeeeeeee;;;;;;;;;; So I wanted to know what that other magic number was/is? thanks again.
Also, I saw YWH's post about the ballest people saying it was 2000 Hrs and the Bulb manufacturer saying it was something else. But In my browser I dont see that Other number I just see a buch of iiiiiiiiiiii eeeeeeeee;;;;;;;;;; So I wanted to know what that other magic number was/is? thanks again.
Video Freak
Did you lamp have the white epoxy holding the lamp into place?
yes I had the white epoxy
but first you need to pull out the glass form the reflector (see the pic)
filler=is a tool that adjust car engine valves (very thin and flexible metal) use a 0.035mm-0.06mm filler, you need some one to help you create a gap so you can insert and move the filler.
you can remove the epoxy but it will take time.
try gently use hammer and nail to remove the epoxy (like sculptor)
the lamp need to be on rubber or someting soft (mouse pad).
and you can drill small holes then try to brake the epoxy.
the ballast manufacturer say that the lamp is 2500h
and the lamp manufacturer say that the lamp is 1000h
maybe the difference is
1. the 250W ballast is not a real 250W ( it's about 180W)
2.the 1000h is in AC and the 2500h is in DC
Did you lamp have the white epoxy holding the lamp into place?
yes I had the white epoxy
but first you need to pull out the glass form the reflector (see the pic)
filler=is a tool that adjust car engine valves (very thin and flexible metal) use a 0.035mm-0.06mm filler, you need some one to help you create a gap so you can insert and move the filler.
you can remove the epoxy but it will take time.
try gently use hammer and nail to remove the epoxy (like sculptor)
the lamp need to be on rubber or someting soft (mouse pad).
and you can drill small holes then try to brake the epoxy.
the ballast manufacturer say that the lamp is 2500h
and the lamp manufacturer say that the lamp is 1000h
maybe the difference is
1. the 250W ballast is not a real 250W ( it's about 180W)
2.the 1000h is in AC and the 2500h is in DC
Attachments
Hi ywh
Do you know what is the difference between the DC lamp on DC ballast and the AC lamp on AC ballast(color temp?, life?arc size?...)
can you get the DC ballast?
can you get the DC lamp?
BTW I think that this AC lamp on the original hitachi AC ballast is about 5000K 🙁 (not 7000k), but I do not have time to test it right now.
if some one is intrested here pic of my AC lamp.
Do you know what is the difference between the DC lamp on DC ballast and the AC lamp on AC ballast(color temp?, life?arc size?...)
can you get the DC ballast?
can you get the DC lamp?
BTW I think that this AC lamp on the original hitachi AC ballast is about 5000K 🙁 (not 7000k), but I do not have time to test it right now.
if some one is intrested here pic of my AC lamp.
Attachments
I think what YWH meant was that the ballasts he sent were AC type, and lamps were DC. Am I right?
18wheeler said:
I do not think so, the lamp is AC too.
you can see closeup in Post #156 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59091&perpage=10&pagenumber=16
the lamp look more like my AC lamp then the DC lamp in YWH pic (Post #191).
Shlomid
anthp said:
I have the 150W lamp
yes it has the same shape - with a screw terminal at one end and a wire at the other.
18wheeler
I just see YWH post #190 and he say there that the lamp is AC.
Shlomid😎
to shlomid
I have found an easy way of getting the fire cement of the back of the lamp around the centre screw I used a model makers 12 volt drill with a small burr like a dentist drill bit, the cement was hard on the surface and softer under it came out without damaging the reflector even though it is badly cracked
I could not get the glass of the front, could not get anything between the reflector and the glass so I sawed the corner off with a diamond tile saw I will put most of the glass back!
my origanal bulb was the same as yours two small electrodes so I guess it must be AC
I have found an easy way of getting the fire cement of the back of the lamp around the centre screw I used a model makers 12 volt drill with a small burr like a dentist drill bit, the cement was hard on the surface and softer under it came out without damaging the reflector even though it is badly cracked
I could not get the glass of the front, could not get anything between the reflector and the glass so I sawed the corner off with a diamond tile saw I will put most of the glass back!
my origanal bulb was the same as yours two small electrodes so I guess it must be AC
anthp
"the cement was hard on the surface and softer under"
No, my cement was hard on the surface and hard under
and yes I needed to use drill actually 220v drill and 2 drills bits, the drills bits ruined after that and when I drilled I put on the cement and the drill bits some water this made the cement a bit softer and the drill bit cooler
.
"I could not get the glass of the front,...
could not get anything between the reflector and the glass..."
No do I... 😱
It was hard but the filler trick worked!
it is so thin (0.03mm less then A4 paper) , flex ( there was no room for it I needed to work with it in 90 degrees)
and because it very thin it's also sharp.
This is UV/IR glass and if the lamp explode or something it will keep the projector safe.
"the cement was hard on the surface and softer under"
No, my cement was hard on the surface and hard under
and yes I needed to use drill actually 220v drill and 2 drills bits, the drills bits ruined after that and when I drilled I put on the cement and the drill bits some water this made the cement a bit softer and the drill bit cooler
. "I could not get the glass of the front,...
could not get anything between the reflector and the glass..."
No do I... 😱
It was hard but the filler trick worked!
it is so thin (0.03mm less then A4 paper) , flex ( there was no room for it I needed to work with it in 90 degrees)
and because it very thin it's also sharp.
This is UV/IR glass and if the lamp explode or something it will keep the projector safe.
anthp said:
sorry ! I forget it.
120W single end lamp !
a screw terminal at one end and a wire at the other =single end lamp . like shlomid.
I can get it ,
AC or DC?how about the electrodes of your old lamp, one biger, other is small?or they have same size?
DC:
AC:
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