I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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#1,682
TonyMontana,

I only thought of leaving the hot wndow filter plate on the hot element and let both cool together AFTER I made the oops and broke it due to what agree must have been from thermal shock.

The reflector survived perfectly and the old lamp is now removed and all is ready to accept a new lamp. I may be able to find a suitable IR blocking window to replace the broken one from some projector parts I have but likely I`ll be forced to run without.

Bohanna,

I`m all OK now to refit a new lamp. Thanx for reiterating the instructions to bypass the ballast. There is some chance I may do this and fit a different lamp to save money right now.
 
#1,683
Glad to hear it. to the Best of my knowledge that is a clear Peice of Glass and Not an IR filter . I beleive the new Lamp will actually function better with the Glass removed. Because the blast or shatter glass actually holds the heat in. The KEY to this unit is MAKE sure the air filter intake is cleaned or it will choke the lamp burn out the Lamp and the Blue LCD Panel and you will see a Big yellow spot in the Middle of the screen. If you see Lots of Little Purple dots on the screen it means that the inner LCD's and rear of the Lens is dusty. You can clean them with a AIR Hose a Little cloth and a few tricks I can show you

Best wishes,

Bohanna

>>The reflector survived perfectly and the old lamp is now removed and all is ready to accept a new lamp. I may be able to find a suitable IR blocking window to replace the broken one from some projector parts I have but likely I`ll be forced to run without.


I`m all OK now to refit a new lamp. Thanx for reiterating the instructions to bypass the ballast. There is some chance I may do this and fit a different lamp to save money right now.
 
#1,684
120 watt which is the same as the 150 and 200 UHP drill from rear to remove Lamp element
 

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#1,686
Oh Yeah,,, in case you spuds haven't figured it our yet ,, the Little metal Balled thing on the Lower Left is the Backside of a regular Glass cutter that you can use to smash the Blast shield Glass in front of the lamp. I left it there in the Picture just so people can see what it looks Like if they have to go to a hardware store to buy one. the front glass is not coming out without cracking and sending chards all over the Place so you might as well plan on covering it with a towel ,, smashing it and then digging out the peices. Save yourself the frustration. If someone has been successfull in removing the Glass intact please explain the procedure because I would like to know how the hell you did it.

Best wishes.

Bohanna

BTW has anybody seen the List of questons I posted earlier and was it of any help to you??
 
#1,689
Really??? What Kind of water do you folks have in Finland?? HMMM?? Maybe that is where acid rain comes from.
when they start making these glues out of flour and water
and the ceramic cement out of Plaster of Paris then Maybe water will work. Until then I would go with a Proven Method.



<<<<Why drill?, apply water and wait a moment.
Front class should come out easy, apply water and wait a moment..

Better without front glass, but if bulb explode...<<<<<
 
#1,691
HMMM??? I tried it on another UHP Lamp a while ago and left the damb thing submerged in a cup of water for about a week. Nothing! It was as Hard after a week underwater as it was as the day I put it in. I have also tried acetone and Mineral oil to dissolve the adhesive on the front glass as well. Nothing!!
That's why I say break the damb Glass to begin with and save your selve the frustration and having tiny chards all over the Place.
If you can show me a intact Piece of Glass from the front of this type of sealed UHP Lamp that was removed with water I will eat the thing.

Maybe there is something in the water In Finland But we filter our water in the states.


Bohanna :clown:
 
#1,692
Since the front glass is atached with a special silicone, you can youse some silicone remover fluid....
but take care of your reflector plating, maybe the remover will destroy the surface of your reflector...
a small trick to remove the front glas is to make a small cut / window with a dremel at the side of the front glass, so you can go wit ha very smallscrewriver straigt between the front glass and the reflector...

thats worked for my in 80% of all lamps...

the trick with the water works fine for te cement @ the backside..
it will not melt out or something, but if you do the wather trick you can get the cement out with a small screwdriver....


Keep in mind that some lamps have a platet glass to filter out UV and IR beams......
if you look from a 90 to 120 ° angle in to the glass and it seems like a metallic surface (sunglasses) you have platet glass....

greetz
 
#1,693
Psycho said:
Since the front glass is atached with a special silicone, you can youse some silicone remover fluid....
but take care of your reflector plating, maybe the remover will destroy the surface of your reflector...
a small trick to remove the front glas is to make a small cut / window with a dremel at the side of the front glass, so you can go wit ha very smallscrewriver straigt between the front glass and the reflector...

thats worked for my in 80% of all lamps...

the trick with the water works fine for te cement @ the backside..
it will not melt out or something, but if you do the wather trick you can get the cement out with a small screwdriver....


Keep in mind that some lamps have a platet glass to filter out UV and IR beams......
if you look from a 90 to 120 ° angle in to the glass and it seems like a metallic surface (sunglasses) you have platet glass....

greetz
Click to expand...


The `blast window` on my UHP120watt lamp assembly was indeed what you refer to as `plated glass`. It is in fact technically called a dichroic filter. This is a special optical coating that works as a true elecromagnetic radiation low pass, high pass or bandpass filter made by depositing ultra thin controlled layers of some magic atoms in a vacuum chamber. The coating on the front window if dichroic attenuates (stops) much of the heat energy (infra red radiation). It could well also be designed to stop out of visible band short ultraviolet rays that are the ones that can kill the blue LCD early.

The mirror coating on the dish reflector is also dichroic. It is designed to reflect visible white light spectrum components but allow the long wave IR to pass unreflected out of the assembly. Thus much IR heat radiation never gets concentrated into the beam. It is referred to as a `cold mirror`.

Science lesson over. 😉

I was able to pick out the crumbly white lamp cement with a sharp metal pick in just a few minutes work.
 
#1,694
HMMM ?? you learn something New every day I will check into silicone remover. As far as the cerment on the rear of the Lamp I will stick buy my story . Water has no efect on it. a small drill set to breach the cement and to go just before the lamp works.

I was unaware of this,,, but The Blast Plate Being a Filter May have some merit to it. inside of the 5900 and other sanyo's there are Light filters and Polorizers just in front of the 3 lCD Panels .
the Larger 400 and 440 Metal Halide Models 9310 10fnx and the Like Have NO glass blast Lens so I assumed that it applied to the smaller 5900 8800 sanyo as well . As far as the Lumens of the units go ,,, they are way underated. so don't let the 750 Lumens throw you off it is More Like 1000 lumens By todays standards.

I am on Vacation in florida so I will not be back in Boston for the next 3 weeks. The first thing I will do when I get Back is try the silicine remover.

Best Wishes

Bohanna




Psycho said:
Since the front glass is atached with a special silicone, you can youse some silicone remover fluid....
but take care of your reflector plating, maybe the remover will destroy the surface of your reflector...
a small trick to remove the front glas is to make a small cut / window with a dremel at the side of the front glass, so you can go wit ha very smallscrewriver straigt between the front glass and the reflector...

thats worked for my in 80% of all lamps...

the trick with the water works fine for te cement @ the backside..
it will not melt out or something, but if you do the wather trick you can get the cement out with a small screwdriver....


Keep in mind that some lamps have a platet glass to filter out UV and IR beams......
if you look from a 90 to 120 ° angle in to the glass and it seems like a metallic surface (sunglasses) you have platet glass....

greetz
Click to expand...


😀 😀
 
#1,695
Where can I get this silicone Remover ??? I asked at the Local Home Depot and Lowes and they had never heard of it.

Thanks

Bohanna


Psycho said:
Since the front glass is atached with a special silicone, you can youse some silicone remover fluid....
but take care of your reflector plating, maybe the remover will destroy the surface of your reflector...
a small trick to remove the front glas is to make a small cut / window with a dremel at the side of the front glass, so you can go wit ha very smallscrewriver straigt between the front glass and the reflector...

thats worked for my in 80% of all lamps...

the trick with the water works fine for te cement @ the backside..
it will not melt out or something, but if you do the wather trick you can get the cement out with a small screwdriver....


Keep in mind that some lamps have a platet glass to filter out UV and IR beams......
if you look from a 90 to 120 ° angle in to the glass and it seems like a metallic surface (sunglasses) you have platet glass....

greetz
Click to expand...
 
#1,696
Bohanna said:
Where can I get this silicone Remover ??? I asked at the Local Home Depot and Lowes and they had never heard of it.

Thanks

Bohanna


Click to expand...


I`d probably make a call to GE Silicone Adhesives Division, Dow Corning or perhaps your local RTV Police.

You probably have to buy this stuff by the drum and that will likely cost as much as a hundred pack of new projector lamps.

Here`s a `duh`. How about contacting the projection lamp manufacturer? Without elaborating you could use the story that you are trying to re-use their reflector with a flashlamp for a laboratory laser experiment or something and need to get the window filter plate off without breaking it. That will pose no threat to their sale of new projection lamps to projector customers and they will be more likely to help you. You want to talk to R&D engineers at these firms.
 
#1,697
Going to give this a try when I get Back to Boston on 2/21/08
Will Let you folks Know if it works.

Has anybody in here Actually used this type of stuff yet ??
If so How long does it take to dissolve the silicone??



http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2151182


McKanica® Silicone Caulk Remover Gel (0354)

Breaks down 100% silicone caulk for easy removal
Ideal for removing caulking around tubs, showers, ceramic tiles, fiberglass, and most plastics
Also removes industrial silicone fillers and adhesives
Designed for 100% silicone, but may soften non-silicone caulks, adhesives, fillers, plastics, and rubbers
Clean up with soap and water
Low odor, no residue
3 Oz.
Squeeze Tube
 
#1,699
Lamp Compatibility with Phillips Projectors

Hi

I've had the same problem as others here with the Phillips projectors (mine is an LC4445). Had a couple of explosions with the Jyd type and the latest type supplied won't start properly or stay on. Regular Philips lamps work fine.
Would be interested to know if anyone has got one one working satisfactorily with a Phillips projector.

Cheers
 
#1,700
OzOne_2k3

Reading another thread, you said you repaired a PG-M15x power supply, I have the same projector and it seems the power supply has died. Can you send me any information you can in how you fixed it, I would email you privately but I am a new member and don't have enough post yet to email others.

Thanks
 
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