I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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#1,661
Psycho said:
hi rca victim,

as first please shorten up your signature... it sucks...

If you dont know the exact position of the bulb, put in the new bulb in the reflector, dont fix it, targeting the reflector on short range (maybe 50 mm) at a metalic bright surface (hot / danger of burning).
now start the lamp outside of the projector and move the bulb in and out of the projector with a insolatet clamp until you get a nice bright square.....
in case of a DLP or some other projectors who need a smal dot do not fabicate a square!!

do not run it without cooling as longer as 1 or 2 minutes....

now remember the deepth of the bulb and fix it with some special adhesive, or something like that (heat resistant cement etc..)

greetz
Click to expand...


Pycho,

I do not have a new bulb. I was describing what I just discovered that is in my reflector assembly. The bad bulb.

I have asked ywh for info and quotations. I would like to purchase a new lamp from him.

If you think my public service signature sucks, you are welcomed to ignore it if you wish.
 
#1,663
Benq 6110 Bulb noise?

Bob here, long time lurker, first time poster😀

Go get a coffee, this is going to take a while.......

My Benq 6110 began giving me a warning at the 2000 hour mark that if the bulb was dim, replace the bulb. Well I got to the 2012 mark and two minutes after starting to watch TV, the picture suddenly melted down and the lamp warning light came on the projector.

I had virtually always used the "economic" mode so to say the least, I was pissed despite reading stories of people getting only 500 to 1000 hours on the bulb. :bawling: :bawling: :bawling:

So I pulled the bulb after it cooled down and inspected it closely. It appeared to be fine. No broken glass, marks, or anything. So I am now thinking circuit failure. BTW, the lamp warning light stayed off once I unplugged the power to the projector.

Considering that I can get at the moment a Optoma SP7600 (comparable to the Benq) for $350 Canadian or a Epson Powerlite S5 for $490, and I did get 2.5 years out of the BENQ and traveled with it a couple of times a month during those years, I wasn't too badly off.

So I figured whats to lose and while holding the Benq in my hand and turned on, started tapping it in various locations.

Well, praise be.... the bulb came on, but not before it stuttered like an old lawnmower and made the weirdest squealing noise I've ever heard for several seconds.

I watched a two hour movie to see if this was going to be temporary and the picture was as bright as ever.

So based on everything above, should I just go ahead and order a bulb from YWH and keep it on standby or go for one of the other projectors I listed?
 
#1,664
Hi manx05!
I have bulb can replace bulb of SP4800, X1.
the bulb is 150W BSM-DC
price is $80, shipping is $5,
I can take moneybookers only.
www.moenybookers.com

Hi Psycho !
best lamp for a Philips hopper XG20 with a 150W UHP 1.0 is 150W BSM-AC-L.

maybe there is special ballast in UHP type. that is best if you can send you ballst to em to test some bulbs.

Hi rcavictim !
but UHP is not metal halide lamp.
UHP 120W 7K, it need 150W BSM-AC
price is $80, shipping is $5, ballast of 150w UHP is $80.
I have no AC short arc xenon
I can take moneybookers only.
www.moenybookers.com
 
#1,665
Hi ywh.

eh, I was thinking of sending you the bulb and reflector things, but I don't know how to write chinese and I don't know if you'll recieve it if I try to copy the text on the package I got. So if you have a address in western letters you'll be recieving the package within the nex 3 weeks. can that be done? Ofcourse your cash will be in the account ASAP when I have sendt the stuff.
 
#1,667
Hi there,

I found out about you guys when looking online for a replacement bulb for my projector. It is a BENQ PE5120 and the lamp has the following characteristics:

2000 hours, 200 Watts, NSH

Mr. ywh do you think we can solve this? If so please let me know the cost and if there are instructions available.

Regards,
Tony
 
#1,669
Hi Janno!
I got your reflector🙂

Hi byadav !
price is $40, shipping is $5, only 70% brightness as SHP.

Hi TonyMontana !
yes, you need 200W BSM-DC, price is $80, shipping is $5.

Hi porschedrifter
least expensive Iis 150W JYS/AC, price is $40, shipping is $5, only 70% brightness as UHP, other is 150W BSM-AC, price is $80, shipping is $5.
 
#1,672
trouble removing bulb

The 120W UHP arc lamp in my Proxima that needs to be replaced is being difficult to take out of the reflector. I have successfully carved out all of the white cement. The hole in the glass reflector which the lamp stem passes is too small to allow the central globe of the lamp to fit through. The front end of the reflector is totally sealed with a flat glass IR filter window preventing me from simply pulling the lamp out of the front.

Does anyone have any good ideas as to how I can remove the front window? Is this frit sealed with heat oven bake? Do I need to grind the seam out with a Dremel tool?

Any experience based suggestions really appreciated!
 
#1,675
FRIDAY said:
rcavictim,

If it does not come off within a minute of putting the front window on a hot electric stove element, you have a problem. This method works like a charm.
Click to expand...

Friday,

Thanx for the excellent suggestion. What kind of temp are we talking here? Black element hot, dull red hot, bright red hot? Do I assume correctly that the element is preheated and the lamp reflector assembly at room temperature?

Do you re-attach the filter window via the same method or other after installing the new lamp?
 
#1,677
FRIDAY said:
rcavictim,

Dull red hot, lamp at room temperature. It's a very quick procedure.

To get the glass back on, I only tack the corners of the lamp using Sauereisen Cement (muffler mender also works).
Click to expand...


Friday,

I tried your suggestion. It took bright red element and about 5 minutes on face contact. The glass was so hot it got to the temp where it was starting to stick to the element. At this point the faceplate dropped off the reflector onto the element. As I tried to push it off the element it exploded into hot pieces. Some went onto the vinyl floor and made some nasty burns before I could scoop them up. Oh well, the price we pay for scientific research. I wore gauntlet welding gloves and a full protective face neck visor for this. No burns or scars on me. The reflector is AOK, just no IR blocking window now. Most IR goes out through the reflector anyhow. Many projector lamps do not use a filter window at all so I will likely be OK without one. It would be nice as projector projection though in case there ever was a lamp explosion.

I immediately sat the reflector face down on a porcelain plate.
I`m waiting for the reflector to cool so I can handle it and see how the reflective coating inside it looks. If all is well I can proceed and order a lamp. Many thanx for the hot tip!
 
#1,678
rcavictim said:



Friday,

I tried your suggestion. It took bright red element and about 5 minutes on face contact. The glass was so hot it got to the temp where it was starting to stick to the element. At this point the faceplate dropped off the reflector onto the element. As I tried to push it off the element it exploded into hot pieces. Some went onto the vinyl floor and made some nasty burns before I could scoop them up. Oh well, the price we pay for scientific research. I wore gauntlet welding gloves and a full protective face neck visor for this. No burns or scars on me. The reflector is AOK, just no IR blocking window now. Most IR goes out through the reflector anyhow. Many projector lamps do not use a filter window at all so I will likely be OK without one. It would be nice as projector projection though in case there ever was a lamp explosion.

I immediately sat the reflector face down on a porcelain plate.
I`m waiting for the reflector to cool so I can handle it and see how the reflective coating inside it looks. If all is well I can proceed and order a lamp. Many thanx for the hot tip!
Click to expand...

maybe you should turn off the element and let the glass cool down first... it was probably the sudden change in temperature that cause the damage... maybe future scientists should consider this 🙂
 
#1,680
dp5900 radiovictim

I have some ideas on the dp-5900 Lamp
you will have to use the ball end of a glass
cutter to smash the front Blast glass. you will not be able to dig it out with out breaking it anyway. you drill out the rear cement with Multiple Passes from a small drill Bit then remove it. To disable the lamp Lallast you have to jump the Little three Pin connector that comes out of the Ballast and goes to the under Board to the right of the lens and unplug the two large wire white Molex connector the Powers the Board and the unit will stay on so you can retrofoit a Lamp if you want
Look for the dp5900 Mod thread in this board or search for Bohanna Posts. also email Me directly at Stuffyhead1@aol.com for Picts and more
 
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