I got my new lamp. It is for commercial projection use. people use it to replace the

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im still waiting to hear back from either of the guys that sell these bulbs on here. has anyone talked to them? i need to get one ordered and shipped pretty quickly if possible. does anyone know of any websites that sell these so i can get one ordered? trying to get my room setup by superbowl
 
Hi 97ss150
NSH200BQ, OK , you need 200W BSM/DC .
price of bulb is $80, shipping is $5 in post , or $25 in DHL.

Hi recharge
I received your US$85 , thanks, pleace wait.
I will send goods next week. shipping is about 1-2 weeks.
expected life span is 1000hrs.(original uhp is not 2000hrs but only 1500hrs infact, )
 
Hey ywh,

you don't answer in the german diy community forum, that's why I try it here.
I have read good things about the commercial beamer modding with your type of lamps, okay some broken after seconds, but I think that are typically monday productions 🙂, it's a german proverb.

I get a Philips Garbo LC 6231 LCD Beamer with 132W built in UHP that's what I read at different sites for the lamp type. Some users have already modded this type of beamer with your UHP lamps.

What do you think is the right type of lamp, what's better. JYd120/A.C or JYD150/A.C.

What does it cost (inclusive shipping to germany)? Please contact me with PN because I can't, I'm a newbie with no permission to contact people 🙂.

Forgive my bad english 🙂

regards,
lumax
 
Hi YWH!

I found this thread in a google search, because I want to buy a buble lamp for infocus X1.
I find a post where you sell just the buble lamp for replacement.
Could you give the price and the way to make an order. I leave in France. I can pay with paypal account.

thanks
 
Lamp wont run

Hey All
hi Ywh.. its been a long time 🙂

A few questions:

What is the best lamp for a Philips hopper XG20 with a 150W UHP 1.0 Lamp originali attached to it?

i had the same problem as the swedish guy before...
with a jyd 150W AC the projector runs but just at a wrong voltage...
1.2 A @ 72V are just about 90W ...
Result: After 10 hour video fun the lamp becomes crackles and blown itself...
another 150W uhp lamp 1.1 will stop firing after 2 or 3 minutes...
like the swedish guy said.... it fires itself up, works for a moment, then the voltage drops down all the time, then the projector stops...

then i tryed a Jys 150W AC...
it fires up and runs, but only @ 20V and 1.7A, the Lamp supply sounds noisy, so i stopped the test after 30 sec....


then i got another uhp lam on ebay (maybe a uhp 150 1.2? ) ant this one runs great.... about 100V @ 1.5 A.....

i am specialised now in repairing philips hoppers, but they all got those special lamp supplys on it.

my question now, is it possible to get a lamp who fits on this projector?

thanks to all !!
greetings from Switzerland
 
"like the swedish guy said.... it fires itself up, works for a moment, then the voltage drops down all the time, then the projector stops..."


Deam, i have philips cbright lc4341 and it does same.

I ordered 200w bulb and voltage drops down and turns off.
I managed to get it working.

I added 10kohms resistor to 47kohm ballast power adjust
to raise voltage to max.

Then i added 6ohm power resistor to bulb wire and voltage drop stopped.
Then i added on/off switch to bypass resistor for warmup (otherwise resistor/s gets too hot)

It eats some brightness but it atleast works.

I think that my projector would work fine with 250w bulb....
original is 200w


http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=114101
 
Re: Lamp wont run

Psycho said:
then i tryed a Jys 150W AC...
it fires up and runs, but only @ 20V and 1.7A, the Lamp supply sounds noisy, so i stopped the test after 30 sec....

Hmm, warmout period is not stopped, noise is coming from that.

If i fire my projector on when there is too much resistance on bulb circuit the warmup wont never stop.
 
Please, need lamp for Proxima DP-5900

ywh,

I have a proxima DP-5900, 3 LCD projector that needs a new lamp. The original is a straight quartz tube, single ended 120 watt metal halide inside a sealed dichroic heat shedding, deep parabolic reflector with flat dichroic heat blocking flat glass window bonded to the front of the glass reflector.

Data etched on the internal quartz lamp cylinder is,

1UHP_238233

Info on the outside of the reflector is,

UHP 120W 7K
1AV4T30B0Z2800
made in Belgium

I have five questions.

Do you have a direct substitute MH lamp insert? Cost?

Do I have any higher power options like maybe 150 watt that may run on the same ballast, perhaps with a power adjustment?
Cost?

I may be interested in a suitable xenon short arc lamp in the 250 watt class and suitable ballast. Do you have anything that would work here? Cost? If xenon short arc is not well suited here please advise. I`ll let you recommend an AC or DC lamp as appropriate.

Is there an AC short arc xenon that would fit my reflector and operate off my existing MH ballast? Cost?

Am I correct to assume that my stock ballast output and lamp is AC?

Thank you for your attention to my inquery.

Note: any cylinder shaped lamp that I insert into my reflector will have to be pushed in from the rear since there is no front access due to bonded output filter faceplate. There is a stepped down restriction at the vertex of the reflector where the lamp slides through that is just marginally larger than the actual quartz tube of the lamp. This round access hole appears to be 7-8mm ID.
 
hi jarkoh
thanks....
but i think this is not the solution.... i thing it must be possible to make the projector work as it "before".....

other issue would put in another ballast.... there is space enough..

but finest thing would be to put in a lamp that matches...

i just saw YWh got new lamps... maybe they will work...

The noisy Supply is maybe its in startup all the time.... the noise comes from the FET while they are overpowered......

maybe someone has a circuit of this ballast and we can learn those ballasts to Fire up the Jyd 150 ACs... that would be great!

thanks
 
ywh,

Further to my last post, it appears I did not understand exactly where the arc chamber was in this little lamp because it was hard to figure out what I was looking at from the limited available angle with a flashlight and all the reflections of the parabolic mirror. This finally became obvious to me when I used a high frequency spark tester to light up the lamp outside of the projector. The discharge occurs very, very deep in the reflector, and the quartz tube does expand a bit into a small globe at this point. I just could not see this before. Most of the length of that solid quartz tube sticking out is a high pressure foil lead seal. This lamp makes sense to me now. It is made just like the movie theater short arc xenon lamps I am familiar with. It appears that both electrodes are the same size and shape so this is apparently an AC lamp. The electrode tips are rough from use and there is some metallic splatter inside the bulb wall. I am going to guess that the electrodes have worn back from each other enlarging the gap. In addition the electrode tips, no longer smooth points, has upset the electric field geometry to the stage where the power supply cannot establish a stable arc.
 
hi rca victim,

as first please shorten up your signature... it sucks...

If you dont know the exact position of the bulb, put in the new bulb in the reflector, dont fix it, targeting the reflector on short range (maybe 50 mm) at a metalic bright surface (hot / danger of burning).
now start the lamp outside of the projector and move the bulb in and out of the projector with a insolatet clamp until you get a nice bright square.....
in case of a DLP or some other projectors who need a smal dot do not fabicate a square!!

do not run it without cooling as longer as 1 or 2 minutes....

now remember the deepth of the bulb and fix it with some special adhesive, or something like that (heat resistant cement etc..)

greetz
 
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