Horn for Radian 950

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#61
Maybe someone know is there any advantages of wooden iwata against iwata from autotech?
Which horn in your opinion is more interesting- iwata 300 or arai 290?
I want horn with wide dispersion, so i could listen in wide range of positions in room
Would like to buy e-jmlc, but it is very pricey
Driver will be radian 950
 
#62
Andrew1211 said:
Maybe someone know is there any advantages of wooden iwata against iwata from autotech?
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Any advantage would be minor. Wood has very good self-damping characteristics. But the Autotech horns are also reported to be very inert.

Andrew1211 said:
Which horn in your opinion is more interesting- iwata 300 or arai 290?
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Both are "interesting", and valid options. The Autotech Iwata-300 is arguably a more "modern" design, and it´s probably better at minimizing diffraction. The Arai A-290 is better at controlling directivity in the horizontal plane.

Andrew1211 said:
I want horn with wide dispersion, so i could listen in wide range of positions in room
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In that case, I would recommend the A-290.
Bear in mind, though, that for optimal "imaging", you should still sit at the apex of an approximately equilateral triangle. That's just how stereo works, regardless of what marketing people would have you believe...

Andrew1211 said:
Would like to buy e-jmlc, but it is very pricey
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The E-JMLC-300 and Iwata-300 horns behave very similarly. I wouldn't say one is superior to the other in any respect.

Andrew1211 said:
Driver will be radian 950
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That's certainly a very good driver.
To nitpick, its internal throat exit angle is a bit too wide for optimal matching with any of those horns, but that's not something over which I'd lose any sleep...

Hope this helps!
Marco
 
#63
Marco, thanks for your reply
I khow about mismatching of opening angles, but i gave up looking for the right one
The only solution that i found was to make custom horn in autotech which costs about 2000 eur
About iwata...
I found that wooden iwata has slightly different shape than plastic one, is it because of wood limitations?

With best regards, Andriy
 
#64
Andrew1211 said:
About iwata...
I found that wooden iwata has slightly different shape than plastic one, is it because of wood limitations?

With best regards, Andriy
Click to expand...

I thought you were asking about the same Iwata-300 horn, only built out of different materials.
If instead you refer to this much older Iwata design, then of course the two will give different results.

Incidentally, the "Iwata-300" is a bit of a mis-nomer. It is called that way because it follows one of Iwata-san's design ideas, i.e., that the W/H ratio should increase linearly along the horn axis. But apart from that, it's really a variation of the same Hypex JMLC horn, like the JMLC-300 and E-JMLC-300.

The original Japanese patents by Mr. Iwata describe a different expansion law, derived semi-empirically starting from a pure exponential law.

So, they're really two different things...

Marco
 
#65
Yes, i was talking about older iwata
Which one in your opinion is better- old iwata or newer ones like iwata/ e-jmlc?
Here is what i’ve got about dispersion from autotech
As I understood jmlc, iwata and e-jmlc have not only different shape, but also different opening angle
 

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#66
I think the new "Iwata" designed by J.M. Le'Cleach is better in terms of reduced diffraction and will likely sound "cleaner". OTOH, I like the looks of the old one better ;-)

And, beware: those angles in that picture that you posted refer to the horizontal beamwidth (probably -6dB w.r.t. on-axis) at 10 kHz; they are NOT the throat angles.
What they mean is that the symmetrical JMLC horn will "beam" the most, the E-JMLC the least, and the "Iwata" somewhat in-between.
 
#67
The old ones really looks impressive
Why am i looking for high dispersion is because i have small room(about 20 square meters)
and i want to get solid sound in this room
Round jmlc has high directivity and i think that it is hard to get solid sound in small room with that type of horn...
Maybe i’m wrong, it’s just my assumptions
 
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#68
I decided to go in different way - waveguides with constant directivity
So there is two options left:
1) seos 30
2) klipsch k402(original)
Which one would you choose? It will be used from 500Hz to 6 kHz Seos is fiberglass, k402- plastic, k402 has rectangular opening and seos has round Owner of k402 is selling them because he has made wooden copy
 
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#69
Depending on the price, I would go for the K402. There is no constant coverage horn or waveguide I know, that even comes close to what the K402 is capable of.

With a good driver, Faital 2", Beryllium/Aquaplassed diaphragm JBL, or TAD 4001/4002, you can omit a tweeter. In a small room I'd definitely leave out a tweeter.

Check the Klipsch community for tons of info on the K402 and appropriate drivers. There's some info on this forum as well. This thread might be of interest. Member Cask05 knows all about the K402.

By the way, I'd love to see these wooden 402's.
 
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#70
Ro808 said:
Depending on the price, I would go for the K402. There is no constant coverage horn or waveguide I know, that even comes close to what the K402 is capable of.

With a good driver, Faital 2", Beryllium/Aquaplassed diaphragm JBL, or TAD 4001/4002, you can omit a tweeter. In a small room I'd definitely leave out a tweeter.

Check the Klipsch community for tons of info on the K402 and appropriate drivers. There's some info on this forum as well. This thread might be of interest. Member Cask05 knows all about the K402.

By the way, I'd love to see these wooden 402's.
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Do you think that radian 950 is worse than jbl and faital mentioned above?
 
#71
It's difficult to say about the Radian 950PB vs. the now-discontinued FaitalPRO HF20AT. From looking only at the impulse spectrograms, it looks as if the FaitalPRO driver might have a very small edge, but I haven't heard both drivers in the same room under the same conditions.

I've got a small library of 2" compression driver REW measurements on K-402 horns:

  • TAD TD-4002 (now discontinued),
  • FaitalPRO HF20AT (now discontinued),
  • Radian 950PB,
  • BMS 4592ND (dual diaphragm, bi-amped)
  • B&C D75 (rebranded the K-691), and
  • P.Audio BM-D750 series I (rebranded the K-69-A, now discontinued).
I might have REW data in the not-so-distant future on the:

  • Radian 950BePB, and
  • Electro-Voice DH1A (now discontinued).
There are of course other driver types currently being used by other Jubilee and Klipsch Cinema owners on K-402s, such as the:

  • JBL 2445, 2404 and 2446,
  • Selenium D220Ti
  • K-1132/1133 and
  • FaitalPRO HF200.
Chris
 
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#72
Finally i have got my k402
http://i.piccy.info/i9/7ff92abde7940e675c41b15edd0a127a/1543344959/183595/1281325/E46CAF5E_DB03_4723_A374_8947812707D3.jpg
But they are in much worse condition than i expected
One horn is almost brilliant but the other one has serious problems with paint (it just falls off the walls like chips)
In your opinion if i repaint them will it make some difference on the sound?
And the second question is horn tweeter
I’m choosing between beyma cp25 and faital hf108 with sth 100 horn
My friend prefered beyma over faital
He told me that faital sounds bad on low volumes, is it true?
 
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