planet10 said:
If the Demetri had been around when I before I built the BIBs, I'd likely have done it instead. My wife would be certainly be happier. With $400 of ply in the big boxes, I'm not planning to build and compare. At least not yet. I can't say I regret the BIBs, but sometimes I wonder what might have been. I do like the deep bass with no sub.
pj
I think any time you can not build multiple enclosures there is allways "what might have been". I have this problem with drivers, I currently use 4.5" in drivers and wonder what if I would have went with 6.5" drivers instead, like fe167 drivers instead of fe126. My budget does not really allow me to spend $130 on more drivers and I never see them on e-bay.
Ed Robinson
Ed Robinson
I got to hear the Demetri in less than optimum condition - the backs weren't secure and the stuffing not fined tuned. Still they sounded nice.
They have been finished now and though I've not heard them, reports are that bass is very good.
I think I'd like a pair for my house.
They have been finished now and though I've not heard them, reports are that bass is very good.
I think I'd like a pair for my house.
Demetri, con't....
well spent most of the day puttin em together. Had the panels cut at Totem on their panel saw. Other than a couple of practical changes, pretty much as Dave has stated on his site. With very minor modifications can be made with 2 sheets of BB ply, 18mm.
First, they are a pain in the A** to put together. We used white carpenter's glue, and PL400 adhesive. Haven't attached the backs yet, and need to add the felt. Oh and a few brads to help hold it all together. I'm sure that given my 'druthers, I'd druther buy a flatpack if CNC'd for panel placement.
Question regarding the felt: is it just attached to the front baffle below the woofer, but not including the narrow end? And then the narrow end of the taper is stuffed with poly fill? the top is then lined, as well as the side wall for a few inches?
Once I know it all works, I'll post a couple of pix before getting them buttoned up. Using some very nice binding posts, bought for $2 a pair. Haven't decided on internal wiring, but perhaps CAT5 stapled down the "holey brace". Once these things are together, they ain't ever coming apart. If smaller drivers are ever used (the FE167 or Hemp 6.5s) then a supra baffle will be added.
finish will most likely be a stain and polyeurathane.
well spent most of the day puttin em together. Had the panels cut at Totem on their panel saw. Other than a couple of practical changes, pretty much as Dave has stated on his site. With very minor modifications can be made with 2 sheets of BB ply, 18mm.
First, they are a pain in the A** to put together. We used white carpenter's glue, and PL400 adhesive. Haven't attached the backs yet, and need to add the felt. Oh and a few brads to help hold it all together. I'm sure that given my 'druthers, I'd druther buy a flatpack if CNC'd for panel placement.
Question regarding the felt: is it just attached to the front baffle below the woofer, but not including the narrow end? And then the narrow end of the taper is stuffed with poly fill? the top is then lined, as well as the side wall for a few inches?
Once I know it all works, I'll post a couple of pix before getting them buttoned up. Using some very nice binding posts, bought for $2 a pair. Haven't decided on internal wiring, but perhaps CAT5 stapled down the "holey brace". Once these things are together, they ain't ever coming apart. If smaller drivers are ever used (the FE167 or Hemp 6.5s) then a supra baffle will be added.
finish will most likely be a stain and polyeurathane.
Re: Demetri, con't....
2/ the pointy end stuffed with poly fill
3/the top is then lined, as well as the partition for a few inches
4/ line the fat side of the holey brace.
5/ final tuning with loose polystuff just before and/or after driver (accessibkle thru driver hole).
dave
1/attached to the front baffle below the wooferNanook said:
2/ the pointy end stuffed with poly fill
3/the top is then lined, as well as the partition for a few inches
4/ line the fat side of the holey brace.
5/ final tuning with loose polystuff just before and/or after driver (accessibkle thru driver hole).
dave
ok, so I'm feeling a little stupid...
p10: you mean something like this?
The clouds are poly😉
the solid areas are felt lining the sides and holey brace
the cross hatch is felt lining the front baffle
I'll email you a dwg of a modified Demetri cut diagram so that one speaker can fit on one sheet of 60"X60" BB with the appropriate grain direction.
p10: you mean something like this?
The clouds are poly😉
the solid areas are felt lining the sides and holey brace
the cross hatch is felt lining the front baffle
I'll email you a dwg of a modified Demetri cut diagram so that one speaker can fit on one sheet of 60"X60" BB with the appropriate grain direction.
Attachments
ok, and now for "the verdict"... Demetris
finally got em put together and buttoned up.
I'll have a few pix to post shortly.
The need for precision cutting and fitting is essential. The Totem panel saw, although powerfull is not very accurate. we ended up using a power plane to trim up discrepencies..
through the T-amp (41 Hz.com Basic amp6):. Highs can be a little glaring if right on axis, but pointed straight ahead and sitting between the speakers, at approximately 8' with 6' between them, they sound very good. Woofing for sure, but not sub-WOOFing for sure. Articulate bass, musical, FAST, spacious sounding. good depth and width, as well as height. Only listened to a few tunes via a Sony cd505esD, QED PCC passive preamp, Grant Fidelity tube buffer, Basic amp6 and the Demetris. (Sorry for a shameless plug--I'm a new home demonstrator/dealer for grant Fidelity, so moderators remove the plug if you see fit)
Any faults heard can easily be attributed to pretty much everything except the Demetris. The drivers are well broken in, but the enclosures need some kind of coupling device .The passive preamp is a little lean for the T-amp. Once I get a chance to really listen I'll let ya all know. I think therre could be a second set of Demetris being built soon.
finally got em put together and buttoned up.
I'll have a few pix to post shortly.
The need for precision cutting and fitting is essential. The Totem panel saw, although powerfull is not very accurate. we ended up using a power plane to trim up discrepencies..
through the T-amp (41 Hz.com Basic amp6):. Highs can be a little glaring if right on axis, but pointed straight ahead and sitting between the speakers, at approximately 8' with 6' between them, they sound very good. Woofing for sure, but not sub-WOOFing for sure. Articulate bass, musical, FAST, spacious sounding. good depth and width, as well as height. Only listened to a few tunes via a Sony cd505esD, QED PCC passive preamp, Grant Fidelity tube buffer, Basic amp6 and the Demetris. (Sorry for a shameless plug--I'm a new home demonstrator/dealer for grant Fidelity, so moderators remove the plug if you see fit)
Any faults heard can easily be attributed to pretty much everything except the Demetris. The drivers are well broken in, but the enclosures need some kind of coupling device .The passive preamp is a little lean for the T-amp. Once I get a chance to really listen I'll let ya all know. I think therre could be a second set of Demetris being built soon.
ok, the verdict is in on the Demetris...
2nd pair of enclosures to begin construction soon, stay tuned...
(er not because they sound bad, but rather another pair required)
2nd pair of enclosures to begin construction soon, stay tuned...
(er not because they sound bad, but rather another pair required)
Hi everyone, I started this thread looks like quite a few people are participating, welcome.
Recently I acquired a pair of 8in Hemp full range(FR8) and it had been run in for some time, about 20-30hrs. Someone here stated that it needed 100hrs!
At present I make an initial assessment of the driver in comparison to Fostex FE167E. Both mounted on an open baffle panel.
1. FR8 has better bass response than 167E
2. FR8 is more shrill at the top end, I read here it typical
of FR8. Will it go away when it is run in?
3. It has more body in the mid range, and far more
effcient, by about 2-3db.
I plan to build an open baffle speaker with the Uframe providing the bass response. I will try to keep everyone updated with more details once I get them going satisfactorily.
Cheers..
Recently I acquired a pair of 8in Hemp full range(FR8) and it had been run in for some time, about 20-30hrs. Someone here stated that it needed 100hrs!
At present I make an initial assessment of the driver in comparison to Fostex FE167E. Both mounted on an open baffle panel.
1. FR8 has better bass response than 167E
2. FR8 is more shrill at the top end, I read here it typical
of FR8. Will it go away when it is run in?
3. It has more body in the mid range, and far more
effcient, by about 2-3db.
I plan to build an open baffle speaker with the Uframe providing the bass response. I will try to keep everyone updated with more details once I get them going satisfactorily.
Cheers..
I have a new pair of FR8. I have put them on Onur Ilkorur's SINGULAR cabinets (also used by Bert Doppenberg) and it is quite a treat. The Singulars were designed for the AER Mk1 drivers, but is suitable for a wide variety of 8 fullrange drivers. The Hemps actually have specs that are very similar to the AER (on paper).
I feel that, even new, the FR8 better the AudioNirvana and FE206E in this cabinet. It is quite something to listen to: no BOX sound, no bass bloat, no one-note bass (port tuning), almost sounds like an Open baffle, but with prodigious bass extension.
I am very pleased with the results and would highly recommend that anyone with the FR8 check out this design. It is a little big, but nowhere as big as the BIB (which I also considered for a while).
My 2c.
I feel that, even new, the FR8 better the AudioNirvana and FE206E in this cabinet. It is quite something to listen to: no BOX sound, no bass bloat, no one-note bass (port tuning), almost sounds like an Open baffle, but with prodigious bass extension.
I am very pleased with the results and would highly recommend that anyone with the FR8 check out this design. It is a little big, but nowhere as big as the BIB (which I also considered for a while).
My 2c.
Hi Daze,
Is there a link for Onur Ilkorur's SINGULAR cabinets ? can't find it.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Is there a link for Onur Ilkorur's SINGULAR cabinets ? can't find it.
Thanks in advance 🙂
Is this the one?
http://www.yildiz.edu.tr/~ilkorur/ILKORUR/AER.html
Can't find the singualr design on Bert's site, tho.
http://www.yildiz.edu.tr/~ilkorur/ILKORUR/AER.html
Can't find the singualr design on Bert's site, tho.
Singular
These might help.
plans
http://www.woebking.net/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=28&Itemid=63
pictures
http://www.woebking.net/cms/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=48&g2_itemId=1850&Itemid=48
Daze said:
These might help.
plans
http://www.woebking.net/cms/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=28&Itemid=63
pictures
http://www.woebking.net/cms/index.php?option=com_gallery2&Itemid=48&g2_itemId=1850&Itemid=48
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