Hello XRK,
As I am more than happy with PCA, I would like to try this amplifier also.
If allowed, I would like to build my own PCB based on your schematic - of course I will share gerber here.
Another question is, as 2SA1837 is discontinued, do you think 2SA1859 or 2SA1725 can be used in place of 2SA1837?
As I am more than happy with PCA, I would like to try this amplifier also.
If allowed, I would like to build my own PCB based on your schematic - of course I will share gerber here.
Another question is, as 2SA1837 is discontinued, do you think 2SA1859 or 2SA1725 can be used in place of 2SA1837?
Hi @xrk971,
First of all, thanks for sharing your project/research here!
Last week I finished building my first set of custom IEMs /w Bellsing 10013 BA drivers which got me designing a tiny Zobel network PCB for them, which got me researching DIY hp amps. From there I found out about the AMB's Mini3 portable hp amp which lead me to diyAudio Forum and onto PCA project and finally here - Hakuin..
I was wandering have there been any updates to this project because I would like to try making my own amp PCB layout from your schematic for personal/learning curve/building stuff mood.
That being said, I don't know how to read LTSpice schematic but only THIS kind of schematic /w BOM (will you share the latest version).
I'm new to this game but I'm going in head first 🙂
I don't know what's proprietary and what's not, what schematics do i have permission to use - if any, etc.
Once again, thank you and have a nice day!
Mladen
First of all, thanks for sharing your project/research here!
Last week I finished building my first set of custom IEMs /w Bellsing 10013 BA drivers which got me designing a tiny Zobel network PCB for them, which got me researching DIY hp amps. From there I found out about the AMB's Mini3 portable hp amp which lead me to diyAudio Forum and onto PCA project and finally here - Hakuin..
I was wandering have there been any updates to this project because I would like to try making my own amp PCB layout from your schematic for personal/learning curve/building stuff mood.
That being said, I don't know how to read LTSpice schematic but only THIS kind of schematic /w BOM (will you share the latest version).
I'm new to this game but I'm going in head first 🙂
I don't know what's proprietary and what's not, what schematics do i have permission to use - if any, etc.
Once again, thank you and have a nice day!
Mladen
The schematic you link is the latest. It has a solid state relay to prevent turn on thump. A complication only needed for a for a slick seamless commercial product. You can skip that and just wait 2 seconds before plugging your headphones in.
The power supply, smart charger, and battery level meter still need to be updated but I haven’t gotten around to it yet.
If you really just want to experience the the sound in an easy to build format, make the Yarra daughterboard version of it. Pcb’s are available in my store and you can wire it directly to a 24v PSU and headphone output jacks.
The YARRA Preamplifier/HPA for Melbourne DB Group Buy
If you can always build a Yarra preamp main board and enjoy one of the many flavors of preamps/headphone amps.
Currently 8 varieties:
The power supply, smart charger, and battery level meter still need to be updated but I haven’t gotten around to it yet.
If you really just want to experience the the sound in an easy to build format, make the Yarra daughterboard version of it. Pcb’s are available in my store and you can wire it directly to a 24v PSU and headphone output jacks.
The YARRA Preamplifier/HPA for Melbourne DB Group Buy
If you can always build a Yarra preamp main board and enjoy one of the many flavors of preamps/headphone amps.
Currently 8 varieties:
😱 Do you have a favorite child here? Probably the Hakuin I guess. 😀
If one wire these boards to a 24V supply - would it be possible to implement a volume pot? Where, how and what value?
Yes, just add a 10k pot on the input. One leg to ground, one leg to audio in, and wiper to amp input. Similar to how it’s done on PCA or DCA amp.
Ok, thanks X. Pretty simple.
My Yarra Hakuin boards have safely crossed the Atlantic at least, but I have no hope to have them on my desk soon - the pandemic has locked down services on this side.
My Yarra Hakuin boards have safely crossed the Atlantic at least, but I have no hope to have them on my desk soon - the pandemic has locked down services on this side.
Hi X. In post #120 you reference the 2SK29GR. Was this done for people that only have GR’s on hand or because it in some way superior to the BL version? I have both so just trying to decide which to go with.
Lately, it’s been hard to find 2SK209BL’s (higher Idss). The GR’s appear readily available on Mouser (about 29cents ea). Either sounds great and works well as long as you use the appropriate setpoint resistors.
Thanks X. After a LONG time I’m finally ordering parts to build up my Yarra. Excited to try the Haikun and the ACP+ boards, when available.
Are you vivacious from your vacation yet? Hope you had or are having a great time!
Are you vivacious from your vacation yet? Hope you had or are having a great time!
Hi Jwjarch,
I have been enjoying my summer in Michigan. Lots of nature and things to do around all the lakes here. Did a lot of running on trails following my son on his mountain bike. Will be heading back tomorrow. Wish I could stay longer but will be back in 3 weeks.
I have been enjoying my summer in Michigan. Lots of nature and things to do around all the lakes here. Did a lot of running on trails following my son on his mountain bike. Will be heading back tomorrow. Wish I could stay longer but will be back in 3 weeks.
Update:
Added C5(A/B) 100nF and C6(A/B) 470uF. Not sure about R9s in parallel though (I think I've seen some schematic where you said that R8s and R9s go in fours).
Disclaimer:
For anyone thinking of following this schematic - DON'T!!! - I HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING, this is me learning and asking X for guidance and suggestions.
Added C5(A/B) 100nF and C6(A/B) 470uF. Not sure about R9s in parallel though (I think I've seen some schematic where you said that R8s and R9s go in fours).
Disclaimer:
For anyone thinking of following this schematic - DON'T!!! - I HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING, this is me learning and asking X for guidance and suggestions.
Attachments
Looks good - I would add 1uF to 2.2uF 50v Wima MKS (or MKP if you have space) across C4.
The parallel resistors are good because it spreads heat out over larger area and allows use of smaller lower cost resistors. Good for SMT.
The parallel resistors are good because it spreads heat out over larger area and allows use of smaller lower cost resistors. Good for SMT.