FWIW I couldn't find the correct length screws locally, so I just bought longer and took a dremel to them.
Dang...I just ordered some from ebay but thanks for the suggestion.
You could add some switches to the 2, or some header pins as I did in the guide - honestly, how often are you switching cartridges?
Hi 6L6, just wondering where you were able to purchase those header pins?
Thanks!
Hi 6L6, just wondering where you were able to purchase those header pins?
Thanks!
Ah...but if you want mil spec you should use RN. 🙂 I find sometimes they are
cheaper than the equivalent CMF.
For my Bugle2, I got lazy and just used the xicons from the BOM. I think it's
working nicely and has handily dispatched a Creek MM phono I had lying around.
I hope to test it more against some other phono preamps.
cheaper than the equivalent CMF.
For my Bugle2, I got lazy and just used the xicons from the BOM. I think it's
working nicely and has handily dispatched a Creek MM phono I had lying around.
I hope to test it more against some other phono preamps.
Right, RN of course. Are CNF and RN the exact same thing? I'm still confused as for example CMF55 industrial is rated at 0,5W and CMF55/RN55 is rated at 0,125W. How can the same resistor have different ratings?
I should probably just stick with the parts the designer recommends. After all he put a lot of thought into it. But then again I like the look of the Vishay resistors. Nobody can ever know i get excited about the looks of resistors .... 😀
I should probably just stick with the parts the designer recommends. After all he put a lot of thought into it. But then again I like the look of the Vishay resistors. Nobody can ever know i get excited about the looks of resistors .... 😀
RN are Milspec and are 100% derated. That is, they take a 1/4W resistor and call it an 1/8W.
RN always have copper leads, CMF sometimes do, sometimes don't. Aside that, no different.
They are my favorite resistor by far. 😀
RN always have copper leads, CMF sometimes do, sometimes don't. Aside that, no different.
They are my favorite resistor by far. 😀
Ok, get it, thanks! So I guess i can easily use an RN55 rated at 1/8W instead of the recommended Xicon 1/4W?
Glad you share my resistor affection. 🙂
Glad you share my resistor affection. 🙂
well, luxury does come at a price. mouser has all values RN55C in stock but they are on average 10x as expensive as the Xicon counterparts.
Now do you like the brown dale resistors or the blue ones? 🙂
Here's what the CMF datasheet says:
"(Except for marking, the Industrial and Military versions are exactly the same)."
https://www.vishay.com/docs/31018/cmfind.pdf
Here's what the CMF datasheet says:
"(Except for marking, the Industrial and Military versions are exactly the same)."
https://www.vishay.com/docs/31018/cmfind.pdf
This phono preamp has bad overload specifications. Active RIAA, like excellent Pavel Macura phono stage is optimal solution with op-amps which have low working voltage. Dough Self explained it in his book.
Now do you like the brown dale resistors or the blue ones? 🙂
Here's what the CMF datasheet says:
"(Except for marking, the Industrial and Military versions are exactly the same)."
https://www.vishay.com/docs/31018/cmfind.pdf
holy cow, didn't know they came in a choice of colours 😀
the brown ones are the ones I'm aiming for.
dropped an email to Jim Hagerman asking if RN55C would be the right ones to use to get close to the "Elite" Version he used to sell. he said yes, so RN55C it is.
dropped an email to Jim Hagerman asking if RN55C would be the right ones to use to get close to the "Elite" Version he used to sell. he said yes, so RN55C it is.
Yeah, Jim is a very helpful guy. 🙂
Andy
i intend to put the bugle into a metal chassis instead of the suggested plastic one. with the plastic box gnd connection to the chassis is not an option as ...well it's made of plastic. using a metal chassis, should gnd be connected to the chassis or rather isolated from the chassis?
i intend to put the bugle into a metal chassis instead of the suggested plastic one. with the plastic box gnd connection to the chassis is not an option as ...well it's made of plastic. using a metal chassis, should gnd be connected to the chassis or rather isolated from the chassis?
Not sure what you mean by 'gnd' but, from memory, the Bugle has a DC feed.
If I'm correct then your metal case will not be 'mains earthed' unless you:
* put a ground post on the back of the case (and scrape away the powder-coat or anodising on the inside of the case, around the ground post hole - so the ground post can make a good contact with the case), and then
* use an earth wire (with banana plug or spade connector) to take an earth wire to a component (such as your preamp) which has a mains post and is mains powered - and therefore mains-earthed.
But the RCA sockets on the Bugle should be isolated from the metal case - using the standard collars.
And I suggest you install a parallel pair of input RCAs so you can use this 2nd pair for 'load plugs' - eg. to make sure you have the correct 'C' load for your MM cart.
Andy
Sorry for not being clear about my GND question. I was referring to the GND thumb screw between the RCA inputs. In this picture on the right between the RCAs.
No idea what you mean by installing the parallel pair of RCAs as load plugs. I can set the load with a resistors on the board, right?

No idea what you mean by installing the parallel pair of RCAs as load plugs. I can set the load with a resistors on the board, right?
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