Hi, I am new in this forum. I have a Logitech Z-5450 that looks like new except it is not turning on (No reaction when switched on and control pod off/no light).
I guess a lot of information on the Z-5000, apply for my model too.
First of all, may be someone face same kind of problem and would be able to guide be to troubleshoot the issue.
Thanks in advance.
Mick
PS: should i create a new thread for this post?
I guess a lot of information on the Z-5000, apply for my model too.
First of all, may be someone face same kind of problem and would be able to guide be to troubleshoot the issue.
Thanks in advance.
Mick
PS: should i create a new thread for this post?
Thanks for your message Basi 
.
I'm kind of ignorant in electronics
Here is how the sub board looks like: http://ovh.to/X9WhkCB
Where do I locate the regulators (7818 and 7918, and 7805)? On the other side of the board i pictured?
The connections of the blue wires don't look as 'clean' as the others. Is it normal or a bit suspicious? (easier to see on this image: http://ovh.to/ve7hL4u )
Mick
.I'm kind of ignorant in electronics
Here is how the sub board looks like: http://ovh.to/X9WhkCB
Where do I locate the regulators (7818 and 7918, and 7805)? On the other side of the board i pictured?
The connections of the blue wires don't look as 'clean' as the others. Is it normal or a bit suspicious? (easier to see on this image: http://ovh.to/ve7hL4u )
Mick
Hi,
I finally got to test the subwoofer with a control pod from a Z-5400 system and found out that the control pod was turning on properly.
Now i opened up the original control pod. The only thing i notice is that a condensator seems to look a bit inflated (it is irregular at the top).
Does anybody know if that could be the cause of the control pod not turning on/working?
Thanks,
Mick
I finally got to test the subwoofer with a control pod from a Z-5400 system and found out that the control pod was turning on properly.
Now i opened up the original control pod. The only thing i notice is that a condensator seems to look a bit inflated (it is irregular at the top).
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Does anybody know if that could be the cause of the control pod not turning on/working?
Thanks,
Mick
First I'd just like to say I'm blown away by the amount of content on hacking this speaker system.
I've had a z 5500 since 12/19/2005 and I've used the hell out of it and it's never failed me... until recently.
The past few weeks I've noticed my left front channel is extremely quiet. It's not the speaker itself because it it does this with other speakers plugged in and it's not the speaker wire because will also do it with different speaker wire plugged in. It is quiet regardless of what input I'm using (currently plugged into my TV using optical and has the same issue using stereo input channel aux-in from an mp3 player).
Any ideas?
EDIT: System has spring clips is that makes a difference.
I've had a z 5500 since 12/19/2005 and I've used the hell out of it and it's never failed me... until recently.
The past few weeks I've noticed my left front channel is extremely quiet. It's not the speaker itself because it it does this with other speakers plugged in and it's not the speaker wire because will also do it with different speaker wire plugged in. It is quiet regardless of what input I'm using (currently plugged into my TV using optical and has the same issue using stereo input channel aux-in from an mp3 player).
Any ideas?
EDIT: System has spring clips is that makes a difference.
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Hi all, firstly just wanted to say what a class thread, so much great info so cheers for all the info gathered here.
My set has developed a fault where by basically various speakers crackle and pop. If I leave the system turned off for a while then use it, it works fine for about 5 minutes and then the left right output starts crackling/popping, followed by eventually more starting as well including the sub.
I have managed to isolated the issue to the control pod, so somehow the signal is getting damaged? the delay make me think it could be a dodgy capacitor? it was posted breifly earlier in this thread that a cause could be the vga plug that needs to be cut off and replaced
I know this is quite an old thread now, but any chance anyone has an idea? would be much appreciated!
many thanks
My set has developed a fault where by basically various speakers crackle and pop. If I leave the system turned off for a while then use it, it works fine for about 5 minutes and then the left right output starts crackling/popping, followed by eventually more starting as well including the sub.
I have managed to isolated the issue to the control pod, so somehow the signal is getting damaged? the delay make me think it could be a dodgy capacitor? it was posted breifly earlier in this thread that a cause could be the vga plug that needs to be cut off and replaced
I know this is quite an old thread now, but any chance anyone has an idea? would be much appreciated!
many thanks
Should work fine, what do you mean by freeze, do the control pod display black squares on the screen?
If so, its the subwoofer/amp that is at fault not the pod, I have this exact issue but never managed to fix it unfortunately
U didn't even tray to fix it!!
I told u where is the problem and u don't even have a multimeter?I'm not even sure that u know how to use it?
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haha, I indeed do know how to use a multimeter, however I couldn't get access to the chip you mentioned, I have checked the output voltages of the back of the sub unloaded but could get any results, will try it loaded again with the pod connected when I have more time and see what the results show, but it seems 4 out of the 5 speaker outputs are also crackling/no sound, so I'm fairly sure the fault is too serious beyond repair (of my knowledge level anyway)
So I picked up another used set of the Z5500s of ebay and they arrived today. They are springclip versions, however oddly the PID is R602. What I dont understand is I thought the versions pre R636 were RCA type speaker outputs?
Just wondering then because my old set were R824, so would the control pod from this potentially work with the R602s? I dont want to check incase I mess something up, but I was under the impression that the difference in versions was due to the speaker connections? Or was there potentially some overlap?
cheers
Just wondering then because my old set were R824, so would the control pod from this potentially work with the R602s? I dont want to check incase I mess something up, but I was under the impression that the difference in versions was due to the speaker connections? Or was there potentially some overlap?
cheers
First off, thank you for posting that pinout, camo! You have saved me those same long nights, or more likely, you've saved a perfectly good set of speakers from the dumpster.
I have a set of these same speakers, and one satellite and one front speaker have died, so it's pretty useless as speakers, BUT as it happens I'm building a DIY synth that will generate a lot of bass at times, so I'm thinking (optimistically, now) that I can feed the output into the sub and the two remaining channels, mount the works into the cabinet somehow and have a decent-sounding Kleftvark with a bit of proper bass to it. Having this pinout is awesome.
So from the reading I've done, I gather that what goes into these pins has essentially no volume control applied, it's just the raw power amp feeding into the sub and the speaker terminals? Do I understand this correctly?
I have a set of these same speakers, and one satellite and one front speaker have died, so it's pretty useless as speakers, BUT as it happens I'm building a DIY synth that will generate a lot of bass at times, so I'm thinking (optimistically, now) that I can feed the output into the sub and the two remaining channels, mount the works into the cabinet somehow and have a decent-sounding Kleftvark with a bit of proper bass to it. Having this pinout is awesome.
So from the reading I've done, I gather that what goes into these pins has essentially no volume control applied, it's just the raw power amp feeding into the sub and the speaker terminals? Do I understand this correctly?
OK guys, finally... After some really long nights I was able to get the correct wire configuration by tracing the boards and doing some research on the chips. I still have a problem, but first I will give you my results, maybe somebody will find them useful:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Z-5450 15-pin Subwoofer to Control Pod connection
===============================
1 - N.C.
2 - Sub in (grey)
3 - N.C.
4 - Center in (green)
5 - Left Front in (yellow)
6 - Turn amps on (orange)
7 - Unmute left, right, subwoofer (blue)
8 - Unmute center (white)
9 - Right Front in (purple)
10 - +8V for Control Pod logic (thick red)
11 - Ground for Control Pod (thick green)
12 - Ground for Control Pod (thick blue)
13 - Overheat detect? (black)
14 - +12 V for Control Pod logic (thick brown)
15 - -12 V for Control Pod logic (thick black)
Shield - Blank wire
Pin 1 and 3 are not connected, because the Z-5450 has two wireless satellite speakers. For a wired speaker system these would be connected to red and brown.
Use this information at your own risk!
If you have any questions, then just ask me and I will try to help you.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Now, on to my problem. So after I have the control pod connected, I still don't get a decent subwoofer volume. I can barely hear it when I turn the volume all the way up. When I connect the subwoofer driver wires (red and black) directly to an amped output, it works just fine, so that part is OK. BTW, the satellites work without any problems.
Any ideas?
Joined diyAudio to comment here. I have used Z-5500 speakers since 2006 or so, and have always loved them. Back in 2010, they were damaged from lightning and I got a replacement set from our home insurance coverage. The damaged set has been in the basement ever since. I've recently decided to dig them up and try to repair them, as it would be nice to have another set in the basement room.
So far, here are my findings:
* I have an early-spring clip model, based on pictures seen here (will have to dig up serial when i get home)
* The sub continually blows fuses. I traced this down to the high voltage (~50V) bus being shorted. I disconnected the 50V quick connect terminal outputs from the regulator and the 18V output comes up fine without blowing the fuse (I ran out of fuses, so I just shorted it with some wire - yikes!).
* The pod appears to be dead as well. If I plug it in to my replacement sub, the red light doesn't come on. However, I have not accounted for any pin differences, as the replacement set is a late spring clip model.
I plan on isolating each power amp to see if any or all of them are damaged. After that, I will try to see what happened to the pod. If it is not repairable, I will likely try to do the headless modification and hook up to a receiver that I have yet to purchase.
Questions:
* Are there any differences between the pinouts on the DSUB connector of the early and late spring clip models? My pod may be fine if this is the case.
* Any good ideas on how to test the power amps? My plan is to disconnect the +Vs/-Vs jumpers to each one and check for a bus short. I first tried to check for a short from +Vs to the output, but that produced varied results (anywhere from 4 ohms to ~100k).
Thanks to all who have posted for your insights! There's a lot to comb through here.
So far, here are my findings:
* I have an early-spring clip model, based on pictures seen here (will have to dig up serial when i get home)
* The sub continually blows fuses. I traced this down to the high voltage (~50V) bus being shorted. I disconnected the 50V quick connect terminal outputs from the regulator and the 18V output comes up fine without blowing the fuse (I ran out of fuses, so I just shorted it with some wire - yikes!).
* The pod appears to be dead as well. If I plug it in to my replacement sub, the red light doesn't come on. However, I have not accounted for any pin differences, as the replacement set is a late spring clip model.
I plan on isolating each power amp to see if any or all of them are damaged. After that, I will try to see what happened to the pod. If it is not repairable, I will likely try to do the headless modification and hook up to a receiver that I have yet to purchase.
Questions:
* Are there any differences between the pinouts on the DSUB connector of the early and late spring clip models? My pod may be fine if this is the case.
* Any good ideas on how to test the power amps? My plan is to disconnect the +Vs/-Vs jumpers to each one and check for a bus short. I first tried to check for a short from +Vs to the output, but that produced varied results (anywhere from 4 ohms to ~100k).
Thanks to all who have posted for your insights! There's a lot to comb through here.
Hi there,
My z5500 bought a long time ago started making this noise a few days ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plZXLAwgSFk
This sound is louder from one speaker but it's coming out the very same sound synced between all the speakers even when no input source is connected.
Does anyone know how to fix it?
I googled for hours before landing into this thread. I know it's not the best place to post but I didn't find any other active thread about the logitech z5500. Hope you'll forgive me.
Have a nice weekend you all
Thanks in advance
Andrea
My z5500 bought a long time ago started making this noise a few days ago:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=plZXLAwgSFk
This sound is louder from one speaker but it's coming out the very same sound synced between all the speakers even when no input source is connected.
Does anyone know how to fix it?
I googled for hours before landing into this thread. I know it's not the best place to post but I didn't find any other active thread about the logitech z5500. Hope you'll forgive me.
Have a nice weekend you all
Thanks in advance
Andrea