Thanks for the link to Slowdiyer's website.
Would you mind sharing the values of the C-L-C components that you used in the PSU filter?
A comparison between the two polarity variations of H2 (unity gain, 1%):
1: positive phase
2: negative phase
The differences were subtle with this setup.
Equipment:
Music on CD: a couple of tracks had a few instruments, the rest were pop
Pioneer 59 AVi (With 6dB attenuators at analog outputs, hopefully plays nicer with H2)
Sony STR DA 7100 ES (Class D amplification?, Video2/analog inputs)
Paradigm studio monitors (single set of wires to each speaker)
I like to listen with my eyes closed. I tried not to change anything else. Listening position was as close as I could make it.
The clarinet player who was listening with me said clarinets sounded better on (1) but at higher frequencies and volumes, it sounded brassy.
(2) made the sound seem to come from outside the speakers, away from the center.
(2) also sounded more pleasant to me for a couple tracks: better PRaT perhaps ?
bonus 3: i.link with rate control (HATS/PQLS)
Consistently better time alignment between channels. Many instruments sounded as if they were in the middle between speakers.
Gains were matched with (1) and (2). Everything else staying the same, I liked (3) for many of the songs. Unsure what where the main factors.
Yes, each of the options was entertaining in its own way. Thanks Nelson, 6L6.
1: positive phase
2: negative phase
The differences were subtle with this setup.
Equipment:
Music on CD: a couple of tracks had a few instruments, the rest were pop
Pioneer 59 AVi (With 6dB attenuators at analog outputs, hopefully plays nicer with H2)
Sony STR DA 7100 ES (Class D amplification?, Video2/analog inputs)
Paradigm studio monitors (single set of wires to each speaker)
I like to listen with my eyes closed. I tried not to change anything else. Listening position was as close as I could make it.
The clarinet player who was listening with me said clarinets sounded better on (1) but at higher frequencies and volumes, it sounded brassy.
(2) made the sound seem to come from outside the speakers, away from the center.
(2) also sounded more pleasant to me for a couple tracks: better PRaT perhaps ?
bonus 3: i.link with rate control (HATS/PQLS)
Consistently better time alignment between channels. Many instruments sounded as if they were in the middle between speakers.
Gains were matched with (1) and (2). Everything else staying the same, I liked (3) for many of the songs. Unsure what where the main factors.
Yes, each of the options was entertaining in its own way. Thanks Nelson, 6L6.
Ah. I should have written better.
Between (1) and (2), the only thing I changed was the speaker connections at the output of the receiver.
Perhaps I should also check the same two states, without the H2.
Perhaps I can also invert PCM polarity, on a different source. Would that achieve the same thing as switching source polarity.
Thanks for your response.
Nah, it was well written 
Of course Papa is the best qualified to answer that one, but my understanding is this H2 kit is quite different from the B1 Korg I also have in that it "only allows positive H2 per construction"... that gets negative because of the speaker connection inversion. Both devices do reverse absolute phase per construction, so the speaker connection inversion gets absolute phase right again.
That is a bit different from the B1 Korg that enables both positive and negative H2 per construction depending on the voltage you play with. I use the H2 only for friends, to have a taste of what playing with H2 does... and to advertise shamelessly Papa's findings. I love to play with H2 on different system, great fun and great to socialise without hurting anyone's pride LOL!
IMHO, what you have from the H2 is either positive H2 with wrong absolute polarity or negative H2 with the correct polarity, indeed playing only with the LS connections (plus the ability to tune the H2 distorsion level).
If you want to experiment positive vs negative H2 with that device (without the absolute polarity bit interfering, something you may or not be sensitive to), the only way I see to do it easily (without op amps etc.) would be to invert the polarity at source level if you have a phase inverting function/switch on your DAC or player, something I considered also for my B1K albeit easier for me as adjustable in both positive and negative H2 at the device, so only the absolute phase is the "problem to solve".
My understanding is you could:
1) use the H2 as intented, so don't play with digital phase (keep it normal / non inverting), and just as per Papa's instruction invert LS cables in order to enjoy right polarity and negative H2 listening
2) use the H2 the same way but not inverting the LS cables, meaning you are now listening to positive H2 but sadly out of absolute polarity. To enable positive and negative H2 only comparisons, you could invert polarity if your DAC / source enables that and that would mean option 2 becomes 'positive H2 non inverting polarity'
For sure someone else will explain it better... or correct me if wrong LOL!
Enjoy music very much
Claude
Of course Papa is the best qualified to answer that one, but my understanding is this H2 kit is quite different from the B1 Korg I also have in that it "only allows positive H2 per construction"... that gets negative because of the speaker connection inversion. Both devices do reverse absolute phase per construction, so the speaker connection inversion gets absolute phase right again.
That is a bit different from the B1 Korg that enables both positive and negative H2 per construction depending on the voltage you play with. I use the H2 only for friends, to have a taste of what playing with H2 does... and to advertise shamelessly Papa's findings
. I love to play with H2 on different system, great fun and great to socialise without hurting anyone's pride LOL!IMHO, what you have from the H2 is either positive H2 with wrong absolute polarity or negative H2 with the correct polarity, indeed playing only with the LS connections (plus the ability to tune the H2 distorsion level).
If you want to experiment positive vs negative H2 with that device (without the absolute polarity bit interfering, something you may or not be sensitive to), the only way I see to do it easily (without op amps etc.) would be to invert the polarity at source level if you have a phase inverting function/switch on your DAC or player, something I considered also for my B1K albeit easier for me as adjustable in both positive and negative H2 at the device, so only the absolute phase is the "problem to solve".
My understanding is you could:
1) use the H2 as intented, so don't play with digital phase (keep it normal / non inverting), and just as per Papa's instruction invert LS cables in order to enjoy right polarity and negative H2 listening
2) use the H2 the same way but not inverting the LS cables, meaning you are now listening to positive H2 but sadly out of absolute polarity. To enable positive and negative H2 only comparisons, you could invert polarity if your DAC / source enables that and that would mean option 2 becomes 'positive H2 non inverting polarity'
For sure someone else will explain it better... or correct me if wrong LOL!
Enjoy music very much
Claude
Thank you for the detailed description.
So far, I am able to tell the difference in absolute polarity, without H2, mainly during the start of songs. I do not have a DAC that can automagically change polarity. I used Audacity on the computer to invert. I verified that this does what you expect by looking at the digital data: Each sample is close to the negative of the input.
So far, I am able to tell the difference in absolute polarity, without H2, mainly during the start of songs. I do not have a DAC that can automagically change polarity. I used Audacity on the computer to invert. I verified that this does what you expect by looking at the digital data: Each sample is close to the negative of the input.
Beautiful build, Neal.
May I ask where you sourced the front panel and build box or are they DIY?
I am using the Meanwell LRPS wall wart. Is the Meanwell PS you used an LRPS?
If so, what is Meanwell part number.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks Big Guy,
The enclosure is a 1506 size from Ebay. It's actually quite cheap, about £26 to the UK inc. shipping. It came with the volume knob, IEC socket and power switch, I just had to drill for the RCA jacks.
The Meanwell transformer is SMPS, but the board I used (details from Slowdiyer) has some filtering.
Cheers
Neal
I used the same filtering on my build and the CLC filter cleaned up the smps power to my H2. It is dead quiet now.
