Hi,
Fantastic offer, just not sure yet. Will have a really good think it and about how they could be combined with a separate woofer enclosure 🙂
Paul
Fantastic offer, just not sure yet. Will have a really good think it and about how they could be combined with a separate woofer enclosure 🙂
Paul
Easy OB
I recently built an OB speaker. I used regular plywood that I had around with the Eminence Alpha 12-lta and Eminence Beta 15-L. I used a 18 diameter concrete pier tube (sona tube) for the woofer. Sounds great, I could not be happier. I did add an Eminence horn but I find it adds very little. The project could be done with a jigsaw, drill, screwdriver and adjutable end wrench. Not sure how you could much easier of really have a nicer sounding speaker.
I recently built an OB speaker. I used regular plywood that I had around with the Eminence Alpha 12-lta and Eminence Beta 15-L. I used a 18 diameter concrete pier tube (sona tube) for the woofer. Sounds great, I could not be happier. I did add an Eminence horn but I find it adds very little. The project could be done with a jigsaw, drill, screwdriver and adjutable end wrench. Not sure how you could much easier of really have a nicer sounding speaker.
Cheers, OB is another direction worth considering. How suited would Open Baffle be to a more corner loaded position & near-field listening in a small room. Or is it more down to how they're EQ'd? Have had a preliminary read through the Linkwitz pages about the Orion & LX521.
Would I have to move away from the A7.3 if a full OB was done ?... Wonder how well a sealed enclosure/OB A7.3 would pair with a Seas L26LRO4Y in H-frame !?
Still thinking a simple box enclosure is my best way forward at this stage. However, am still thinking on these different approaches. The end result needs to be more able to handle full on orchestral, electronic, heavy rock/metal as well as the lighter stuff. All without spending to much... 🙂
Paul
Would I have to move away from the A7.3 if a full OB was done ?... Wonder how well a sealed enclosure/OB A7.3 would pair with a Seas L26LRO4Y in H-frame !?
Still thinking a simple box enclosure is my best way forward at this stage. However, am still thinking on these different approaches. The end result needs to be more able to handle full on orchestral, electronic, heavy rock/metal as well as the lighter stuff. All without spending to much... 🙂
Paul
It's all about the box!
Now have two Peerless 835026 HDS 205 Al woofers sitting on the floor next to my FH3's waiting for a box each. WinISD says ... Sealed Enclosure: 33.4L, f3: 46Hz, f10: 27Hz.
Thought to starters, I might build some helper woofers for the FH3 then move onto a dedicated FR & Woofer enclosure with a higher XO at a later date...
So, for a helper woofer, how much does the box shape matter?
Three in the pic & all to scale:
1st, compact, tilted & stuffed ... 25.05L
2nd, broad and low[ish]... 33.4L
3rd, tall & braced... 35L
Paul.
Now have two Peerless 835026 HDS 205 Al woofers sitting on the floor next to my FH3's waiting for a box each. WinISD says ... Sealed Enclosure: 33.4L, f3: 46Hz, f10: 27Hz.
Thought to starters, I might build some helper woofers for the FH3 then move onto a dedicated FR & Woofer enclosure with a higher XO at a later date...
So, for a helper woofer, how much does the box shape matter?
Three in the pic & all to scale:
1st, compact, tilted & stuffed ... 25.05L
2nd, broad and low[ish]... 33.4L
3rd, tall & braced... 35L
Paul.
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Update
The decision was made to first build a helper woofer for my FH3 with A7.3s, utilising WinISD beta & Sketch-up arrived at a basic box design for a pair of 8" Peerless P835026.
I've personally never been very adept at working with wood, but wished to build these from scratch. A few You Tube tutorial vids latter, I had a straight edge for the circler saw and the basics of the cabinet cut from the 18mm BB ply...
I've slowly collected various tools & router bits to help with the build, been given a 1500Watt Router and am currently working on making various jigs and templates to help finish the speaker build.
To add to this, I've just finished building a second amp and am waiting on an order from miniDSP for the active 2-way... Once this is all set up I hope to make a pair of mMarS for A7.3 with the left over BB ply 🙂
Regards
Paul
The decision was made to first build a helper woofer for my FH3 with A7.3s, utilising WinISD beta & Sketch-up arrived at a basic box design for a pair of 8" Peerless P835026.
I've personally never been very adept at working with wood, but wished to build these from scratch. A few You Tube tutorial vids latter, I had a straight edge for the circler saw and the basics of the cabinet cut from the 18mm BB ply...
I've slowly collected various tools & router bits to help with the build, been given a 1500Watt Router and am currently working on making various jigs and templates to help finish the speaker build.
To add to this, I've just finished building a second amp and am waiting on an order from miniDSP for the active 2-way... Once this is all set up I hope to make a pair of mMarS for A7.3 with the left over BB ply 🙂
Regards
Paul
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Thank you Chris ... both amps are really nice sounding, quite neutral with lots of detail when powering the FH3.
Over the last couple of mornings I've been able to make some progress once more. Last of the components needed to finish making the jigs arrived and cutting commenced ... I'd like to add this is the first time I've used a router & am quite pleased with the results 🙂
1, adjustable circle jig & speaker rebate template
2, 3mm rebate and a nice fit
3, chamfered backs and rebated side panel
Paul
1, adjustable circle jig & speaker rebate template
2, 3mm rebate and a nice fit
3, chamfered backs and rebated side panel
Paul
Attachments
The two cases are near identical, both were bought off e-bay seller along1986090 [Hi-Fi Audio] ... Their listings are currently a little difficult to access.
...
Now have the miniStreamer, digi-FP, miniSharc, 2 x Curryman DAC's & dedicated power supplies to play with... no enclosure as yet.
...
Now have the miniStreamer, digi-FP, miniSharc, 2 x Curryman DAC's & dedicated power supplies to play with... no enclosure as yet.
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Hi Paul. Interesting project and very thoroughly researched. Mind if I ask you a few questions?
Initially, the single enclosure seemed a very ergonomic approach sans the side firing woofers. Any reason you moved towards a seperate woofer enclosure? Not clear if the Fullrange driver will sit on too or to the side in a seperate tall enclosure?
I 'believe' you're going sealed for the woofer section?....any specific reason for that?
Initially, the single enclosure seemed a very ergonomic approach sans the side firing woofers. Any reason you moved towards a seperate woofer enclosure? Not clear if the Fullrange driver will sit on too or to the side in a seperate tall enclosure?
I 'believe' you're going sealed for the woofer section?....any specific reason for that?
Hi,
The decision to move from a side firing Woof & FR in one cab, to a tall sealed enclosure was mainly based on my building skills. Starting of simple for my first full build. This setup is for music only, so sealed for quality rather than quantity 🙂
For the moment this cab will sit next the FH3 as a helper, with the intention to build a sealed FR enclosure to sit atop the woofer with a ~300Hz XO. The woofer should EQ level into the mid/low 30's at my <80dB listening levels.
I would like to revisit the side firing design or similar at a later date, but with the possibility of utilising two smaller woofers.
Paul
The decision to move from a side firing Woof & FR in one cab, to a tall sealed enclosure was mainly based on my building skills. Starting of simple for my first full build. This setup is for music only, so sealed for quality rather than quantity 🙂
For the moment this cab will sit next the FH3 as a helper, with the intention to build a sealed FR enclosure to sit atop the woofer with a ~300Hz XO. The woofer should EQ level into the mid/low 30's at my <80dB listening levels.
I would like to revisit the side firing design or similar at a later date, but with the possibility of utilising two smaller woofers.
Paul
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Ok,thanks. Did you ever get any clarification as to why a sealed woofer section is of better quality than ported or transmission line?
Personally, I'd have used two midwoofers in the base enclosure below the Fullrange driver and ported the system from the rear. I would have used these in a .5 configuration, compensating for baffle step and floor bounce all at the same time. Even a F.A.S.T. Project sometimes might be better served examined as a multi way.
Personally, I'd have used two midwoofers in the base enclosure below the Fullrange driver and ported the system from the rear. I would have used these in a .5 configuration, compensating for baffle step and floor bounce all at the same time. Even a F.A.S.T. Project sometimes might be better served examined as a multi way.
🙂 Armed with the T/S specs and a good explanation on what they mean, sealed looked the better option for this driver. The enclosure volume should mean its critically damped. Or that's the theory... Nothing against BR or TL.
Going forward, lots of options to consider and something like you said is very close. Twin midwoofers in an ML-TL enclosure below the FR, possibly... Also waiting on Dave or Chris finding a good-enough replacement for the SDX7, they have some real nice designs.
Going forward, lots of options to consider and something like you said is very close. Twin midwoofers in an ML-TL enclosure below the FR, possibly... Also waiting on Dave or Chris finding a good-enough replacement for the SDX7, they have some real nice designs.
A touch more progress on this first build... Saturday & Sunday gluing things together. Sunday and today marking centre points, drilling holes and routing, just about to start gluing again.
Internal bracing is a snug fit with ~1mm gap behind the driver before it's fastened down. One full length front-to-back brace and two smaller side braces, all will be set off-centre...
Paul
Internal bracing is a snug fit with ~1mm gap behind the driver before it's fastened down. One full length front-to-back brace and two smaller side braces, all will be set off-centre...
Paul
Attachments
tidy work Paul - those braces are certainly a holey pain in the wrist, aren't they?
if you're not in a huge hurry for woofer, Mark Fenlon may have something soon 🙂
but you can't hardly go wrong with the Peerless HDS series or Silver Flute W12 - 22 series (4 & 8ohm versions available) - so far we've only used the smaller sizes from these folks
no doubt there are many other candidates in this weight class
if you're not in a huge hurry for woofer, Mark Fenlon may have something soon 🙂
but you can't hardly go wrong with the Peerless HDS series or Silver Flute W12 - 22 series (4 & 8ohm versions available) - so far we've only used the smaller sizes from these folks
no doubt there are many other candidates in this weight class
Thanks Chris, yes the braces weren't the most pleasing thing to do, but patience is a virtue...
Keeping an eye on the progress of the Woofer and A8 from Mark Audio, all look very promising.
For certain, was a little spoilt for choice when looking through the various offerings from Scanspeak, Seas etc... The Peerless HDS 205 Alu 8" midwoofers were about the right price, size and quality.
Keeping an eye on the progress of the Woofer
For certain, was a little spoilt for choice when looking through the various offerings from Scanspeak, Seas etc... The Peerless HDS 205 Alu 8" midwoofers were about the right price, size and quality.
Hoping to have these sealed, or close-to by the weekend... got half way through applying the wool-felt inside the first cab and ran out of spray adhesive 🙁
Not sure an which paper-backed veneer to use yet, Sapele, Walnut or Zebrano.
Quick pic of the woof enclosure next to the FH3 with a mock-up of the next speaker build, the mMarS for A7 sat on top.
Not sure an which paper-backed veneer to use yet, Sapele, Walnut or Zebrano.
Quick pic of the woof enclosure next to the FH3 with a mock-up of the next speaker build, the mMarS for A7 sat on top.
