A 50W thermostatically-controlled iron will be far safer to PCBs than a 35W uncontrolled firestick.
ok im an idiot. i wired the V+ and the pg+ backwards
but luckily i fixed it and it still works 😀 😀 😀 going to wire the pot as wildman noted right now. hope it works. i should get my dang camera by tuesday i hope. ebayer is lagging. but as soon as i do ill post picks. came out pretty decent i think. billet aluminum case with phenolic rear pannel with all the connectors int he rear and the noble pot in the front left. nice and small. hope there isnt issues with everything right next to each other.🙄
but luckily i fixed it and it still works 😀 😀 😀 going to wire the pot as wildman noted right now. hope it works. i should get my dang camera by tuesday i hope. ebayer is lagging. but as soon as i do ill post picks. came out pretty decent i think. billet aluminum case with phenolic rear pannel with all the connectors int he rear and the noble pot in the front left. nice and small. hope there isnt issues with everything right next to each other.🙄
got it all wired up and its playing right now. sounds decent. any word on how long they take to break in?
Re: What Iron is too hot for BrianGT's PCBs?
A solder station is way over the top for this, but I guess the temp control is nice 🙂. Sure it'll do. I'm not sure about the temperature, I believe 350°C is OK, but then again I might be completely wrong and it should be 500°C. I'm sure someone here will tell you what a good temp is 🙂.Yesh said:...I'm a newbie to sodering, so I read the part of his PDF manual about sodering. He mentioned not using an Iron rated above 35w. So I went out and bough a Weller WES51 soddering station. But it's small iron is rated 50w. Though it does have heat control.
If I turn the heat all the way down do ya'll think it will work well sodering PCBs? Or should I buy a new iron rated lower for this Weller WES51?...
Originally posted by Devil_H@ck
A solder station is way over the top for this,
Ya sort of. I had a 15W "fire Stick" 🙂 and it just wasn't cutting it on my earlier PCB test/learning sodering. Guess I went a bit far in the other direction.
Originally posted by Devil_H@ck
I'm sure someone here will tell you what a good temp is .
Yes! I suppose that's what I need to know. 😀
What is a good temp to use for my Weller on PCBs?
I found a thread about Iron Temps
Iron Temps Thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2174&highlight=
Please comment more if you feel so compelled. 🙂
Iron Temps Thread
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=2174&highlight=
Please comment more if you feel so compelled. 🙂
Does any one know anything about this transformer? Will it work in a gainclone? How do I measure it (if I need to, that is)? It is out of a subwoofer amp (first picture; there's no picture of amp. I don't know how to attach more than one picture).
Black wire is V+ and red is V- and purple and green (or maybe just green?) are for each of the channels. These are just my guesses, does any one know the correct wiring?
Black wire is V+ and red is V- and purple and green (or maybe just green?) are for each of the channels. These are just my guesses, does any one know the correct wiring?
Attachments
Jimmy154 said:Does any one know anything about this transformer? Will it work in a gainclone? How do I measure it (if I need to, that is)? It is out of a subwoofer amp (first picture; there's no picture of amp. I don't know how to attach more than one picture).
Black wire is V+ and red is V- and purple and green (or maybe just green?) are for each of the channels. These are just my guesses, does any one know the correct wiring?
In my opinion the green and blue pairs are the primaries, and the red-yellow-red the secondaries.
Measure for continuity between them. The black ones maybe a shield.
With a DMM set for resistance you should be able to get them identified.
Carlos
red-yellow-red have continuity between all three and all the pairs have continuity between each pair. On the sub amp PCB the black wires are labeled as "primary1" and "primary2." The black wires go to the plug in the sub amp. I don't have a DMM (just analog multimeter; measures only Kohm), can it be determined without one?
taming the gc beast
Hello
I completed the gc. Okay half of it (one channel). Hooked it up to a cheap speaker. damn that amp is LOUD even with one speaker (mono). I'm using the Alps 100K volume control (from radio shack). With the volume control I was able to turn down some of the sound but it's still to loud. Do I need larger pot maybe 250K? or Did I wired it wrong? It has 3 pins for each channel (total 6 pins). I wired signal in from rca on pin 1st (outside) and signout to pcb (middle pin? Left 3rd pins empty and 4th pins empty too on the other side?
btw the amp is good stuff made my cheap speaker sound good.
i can't wait to hook it up to the good speaker. wow kekeke
thanks
Hello
I completed the gc. Okay half of it (one channel). Hooked it up to a cheap speaker. damn that amp is LOUD even with one speaker (mono). I'm using the Alps 100K volume control (from radio shack). With the volume control I was able to turn down some of the sound but it's still to loud. Do I need larger pot maybe 250K? or Did I wired it wrong? It has 3 pins for each channel (total 6 pins). I wired signal in from rca on pin 1st (outside) and signout to pcb (middle pin? Left 3rd pins empty and 4th pins empty too on the other side?
btw the amp is good stuff made my cheap speaker sound good.
i can't wait to hook it up to the good speaker. wow kekeke
thanks
Re: taming the gc beast
On your potentiometer, the third pin should be wired to your input ground.
--
Brian
SS1 said:Hello
I completed the gc. Okay half of it (one channel). Hooked it up to a cheap speaker. damn that amp is LOUD even with one speaker (mono). I'm using the Alps 100K volume control (from radio shack). With the volume control I was able to turn down some of the sound but it's still to loud. Do I need larger pot maybe 250K? or Did I wired it wrong? It has 3 pins for each channel (total 6 pins). I wired signal in from rca on pin 1st (outside) and signout to pcb (middle pin? Left 3rd pins empty and 4th pins empty too on the other side?
btw the amp is good stuff made my cheap speaker sound good.
i can't wait to hook it up to the good speaker. wow kekeke
thanks
On your potentiometer, the third pin should be wired to your input ground.
--
Brian
Hello Brian,
So I need to wired rca input ground to 3rd pin. Do I have to wired from the pcb input ground to the same 3rd pin too? If not what do i do with the pcb input ground (sg)?
btw The amp sound great can't want to burn it in. What's the next kit u have? DAC?
Thanks
So I need to wired rca input ground to 3rd pin. Do I have to wired from the pcb input ground to the same 3rd pin too? If not what do i do with the pcb input ground (sg)?
btw The amp sound great can't want to burn it in. What's the next kit u have? DAC?
Thanks
Does any one think anything about my transformer (page 34 last three posts)? I think I've figured out that the black wires go to the plug. Should I plug those into some power and measure the wire pairs (blue and green, I'm thinking) Volts output?
I'm able to control the volume now. the gc have some power. it sound nice even without the burn in. the gc already sound better than my receiver. the sound coming from the gc have some kick/ punch/tight to it. your gc kit bring me to a different level now.
thank Brian.
thank Brian.
SS1 said:I'm able to control the volume now. the gc have some power. it sound nice even without the burn in. the gc already sound better than my receiver. the sound coming from the gc have some kick/ punch/tight to it. your gc kit bring me to a different level now.
thank Brian.
I am glad that you like the amplifier and got the volume control worked out.
Here is a picture of the wiring, if anyone is still confused. To figure out which pin is pin 1, turn the pot to the maximum volume setting (all the way clockwise), and the pin with 0 ohms to the middle terminal (pin 2) would be considered pin 1.
--
Brian
Attachments
Lokking at Brian´s order-page you can also pay directly through credit card without paypal account.
Is this a problem like being not so safe?
Anybody ever did this?
thanks a heap
Is this a problem like being not so safe?
Anybody ever did this?
thanks a heap
joensd said:Lokking at Brian´s order-page you can also pay directly through credit card without paypal account.
Is this a problem like being not so safe?
Anybody ever did this?
thanks a heap
All transactions on my webpage go through paypal.
--
Brian
Yes, but you can pay with credit card, without paypal-account.All transactions on my webpage go through paypal.
That´s what I meant.
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