CT Transformer Update
OK, last night I completed my cigar box Gainclone amp based on Brian's boards. I used a single 40VCT transformer for the power supply.
It plays very nicely with plenty of power. I don't know the exact details of the transformer. It was one of the PE buyouts ($10) rated by PE as 40VCT, 200VA. Peter Daniel said he thought it was closer to 100VA. In either case it seems to be enough. Power on the rails is now 27VDC with the + and - matching perfectly.
The center tapped transformer is running through both bridges (just like a "real" transformer).
Wiring was done like this-
AC1 from transformer to AC1H on PS board, CT from transformer to AC1N and AC2H on PS board and AC2 from transformer to AC2N on PS board.
Pics of the finished amp posted on the contest thread. I'll be emailing some to Brian for his gallery as well.
OK, last night I completed my cigar box Gainclone amp based on Brian's boards. I used a single 40VCT transformer for the power supply.
It plays very nicely with plenty of power. I don't know the exact details of the transformer. It was one of the PE buyouts ($10) rated by PE as 40VCT, 200VA. Peter Daniel said he thought it was closer to 100VA. In either case it seems to be enough. Power on the rails is now 27VDC with the + and - matching perfectly.
The center tapped transformer is running through both bridges (just like a "real" transformer).
Wiring was done like this-
AC1 from transformer to AC1H on PS board, CT from transformer to AC1N and AC2H on PS board and AC2 from transformer to AC2N on PS board.
Pics of the finished amp posted on the contest thread. I'll be emailing some to Brian for his gallery as well.
Peter,
What do you use to tap your aluminum chassis with? I bought a tap and drill at Lowes for a 10-24 machine screw & I ended up with a hole bigger than the screw! And yes it was a 10-24 screw. I used my drill press to drill it and tap it so I know it wasn't due to sloppiness. Have any tips or secret sources for good taps??
What do you use to tap your aluminum chassis with? I bought a tap and drill at Lowes for a 10-24 machine screw & I ended up with a hole bigger than the screw! And yes it was a 10-24 screw. I used my drill press to drill it and tap it so I know it wasn't due to sloppiness. Have any tips or secret sources for good taps??
Re: How good is this 47Labs player?
It's the best one yet (out of my 3). I think the very short wires made a difference. But the construction was difficult (the plitron TF was a pain to fit) and I made the mistake of not pre-wiring the boards so I was soldering in a tiny space.
The stepped attenuators are home made and they help too.
It's the best one yet (out of my 3). I think the very short wires made a difference. But the construction was difficult (the plitron TF was a pain to fit) and I made the mistake of not pre-wiring the boards so I was soldering in a tiny space.
The stepped attenuators are home made and they help too.
10-24 should be a #25 and a 10-32 should be a #21. The fine thread will provide a "nicer" fit in thinner workpieces. You will often get an "extra" thread in the workpiece ~ it will have a better feel.
I wonder what our Euro foreign intrigue bro's think about all this #21 ~ #25, "F drill" 13/64's stuff. They must think we are absolutely, positively CRAZY.
I wonder what our Euro foreign intrigue bro's think about all this #21 ~ #25, "F drill" 13/64's stuff. They must think we are absolutely, positively CRAZY.
Re: clean edges
I usually use a belt sander, but you can use a block of wood with some sandpaper on it. Anything around 100 - 200 will do. You might try filing initially, but it might not be necessary.
karma said:peter whats the best way to smooth out edges on cut aluminum?
or what do you do
thanks...
I usually use a belt sander, but you can use a block of wood with some sandpaper on it. Anything around 100 - 200 will do. You might try filing initially, but it might not be necessary.
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