I know that you want that I start to do my own calculations and adjustments for the designs i choose to work on,
thing is that i do not have the knowledge to do it, and because of time constrains i asked for help on to choose a design made already by somebody else.
i have another driver in mind besides the 3015LF but you guys tell me if it is feasible
SKAR DDX12
driver is 143 USD
https://www.skaraudio.com/products/ddx-12-inch-car-subwoofer
Dual 2 ohm coils and dual 4 ohm coils
so for PA i do not want 1 ohm load , so i think is better the dual 4 ohm coils i series to make an 8ohm driver, that way i can hookup 2 in paralel or 3 for 4 or 3 ohms load to the amp
SIMS, already calculated and box done already for it.
but the plans call for 2 sheets of 3/4" ply
box is 36'x24'x14.5'
so that is weight and material trade off
what you guys think.
Is it possible to shift the curve more to the left so to gain more low end , i dont care about the box reaching 150+ hz, if it starts rolling off at 100 im fine.
That bad boy would fit most trunks! I'm going to see how the $29 JBL GX1200 models in that enclosure.
lol, you want it in your crown vic ?
and BTW, now that you com up with 29 bux driver, then you want me to steer in to the direction of using budget drivers!! and i couldn't resist lol, 2 ,3 or 4 of those in an enclosure
so to have more power and cone area. 60, 90 or 120 bux for big cone area!
where do you get the 29 bux price ? the lowest price i see is
on ebay, open box but 20 bux shipping so is 50 bux
do you have a Surplus supplier ? 😀
on ebay, open box but 20 bux shipping so is 50 bux
do you have a Surplus supplier ? 😀
Best Buy sells them for $29 a couple of times a year. The driver has multiple threads on avsforum.com. I have 8 of them, 6 for my son and 2 for me. My 30 year old Coustic Power Logic HT-612 won't blow. I built that BP4 back 2020. Anytime my son comes home, he takes my car to go out. I'm just waiting for him to come home and say the sub blew. I'm supposed to be putting the 6 JBL's in his Volvo S60, but the car is not aftermarket audio friendly.
im getting off topic here but why he blows the sub ? he crank to 11 and you do not have DSP ? at least why you do not limit the AMP sensitivity setting so when he crankup all the way to 11 you driver do not go to over excursion if that is the point of failure.
what you cant acoomplish on the volvo ? getting the signal to drive the sub amp ? there is many ways to skin a cat , and probably there are more solutions but i know 2 ways, you can tap it from the RCA pre outs on the dahsboard and i the thing is too old to get a pre amp signal from there, you can tap it on to the rear speakers with those little boxes that impedance match and attenuates the power in to line level to drive your sub amp, maybe you need a stereo to mono converter also, a MINI DSP would be ideal, but is around 100 bux
Who know what he does once he gets around his boyz. Actually, the gains on both amps are set to minimum. The Atoto A6 Pro head unit has 4 volt RCA outputs. The Hifonics Centurion X amplifier puts out more power than what the sub is rated at.
In the 2016-2018 Volvo S60, you can't bypass the factory amp with the factory head unit. The amp is part of the CAN (fiber optic) system that work with other features of the car. All the speakers are on the doors and you have to unbolt the doors to run new speaker wire.
In the 2016-2018 Volvo S60, you can't bypass the factory amp with the factory head unit. The amp is part of the CAN (fiber optic) system that work with other features of the car. All the speakers are on the doors and you have to unbolt the doors to run new speaker wire.
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Oh, I already have a mini DSP. I'm saving it for my next F150. Actually, the Atoto A6 Pro was for the F150 too, but it has a smaller chassis then the old Jensen touchscreen (6 volt RCA's) that was pulled from my wrecked and donated Solara. The Crown Vic HVAC vents don't allow standard chassis double DIN head units. The 2 amps, BP4 box, and wiring were swapped from the Solara to the Crown Vic.
It's like ride a bicycle, don't think too much, just start.
Having fun with bicycle is different then being a professional, just start and if make mistakes we help you. If needed we can set up small wheel on your bicycle so you will not be afraid to drop 😆😆😆😆😆
FreeCAD and Boxplan are basically double click and change the value, it's that hard for you? all hard-work was already done.
But if you say, I don't want to learn, is a different history.
Copy/replicate any model to hornresp take 1 minute.
the easiest i see here without opening the can of worms in to tapping the volvo fiber optic network is
an RCA attenuator, as you still have the amp to the lowest setting, you still need to get a less hotter line level signal to it.
also maybe a little subsonic filtering. there are also RCA plugs that have some LP filtering.
you can make your own with this diagram and formula
If wanted a 10 dB attenuation, i used a on-line calculator I found the following resistance values
( input impedance of 10 KΩ most typical of car audio).
Ra = 6838 Ω (nearest commercial value = 6.9 KΩ)
Rb = 4625 Ω (nearest commercial value = 4.7 KΩ)
with 10db less then you can tweak up some the attenuation pots on your sub amp to taste so not to burn your sub again
if you do not want to build amazon sells them
https://www.amazon.com/Harrison-Labs-Line-Level-Attenuator/dp/B0006N41B0/
https://www.amazon.com/Harrison-Labs-Line-Level-Attenuator/dp/B0006N41AG/
also here 30hz HP filter
https://www.amazon.com/FMOD-Crossover-Pair-High-Pass/dp/B0006N41CO/
😆😆😆
😀
you are an Adult Instigator !!! hahaha
one boss i use to had says when his regional boss hang up with him on the phone
" i dont know and i dont care"
lol
but seriously im seeing soo many graphs and so many hornresp screens that im tempted to dip my toes on to the river lol
🙂
That is very easy to fix, but you need to do some little surgery , i guess you are proficient with soldering , you just need some RCA pigtails and splice before the proprietary connector of your amp so to put the filters inline.
I can do it for you over mail if you send me the connectors , i don't like crimp butt plugs, i solder and heat shrink stuff.
Let me know.
Hey but that is at the line level stage ...looks like the green connector , the black one looks like speaker level and not shielded.
So we need the Pinout of the green connector and you patch there.
BTW.
I effin hate proprietary power amp connectors.
Those car manufacturer crooks are greedy to the bone.
If something break you need to buy their parts instead of a standard one , with a 1500% price upmark. 🤮
I can do it for you over mail if you send me the connectors , i don't like crimp butt plugs, i solder and heat shrink stuff.
Let me know.
Hey but that is at the line level stage ...looks like the green connector , the black one looks like speaker level and not shielded.
So we need the Pinout of the green connector and you patch there.
BTW.
I effin hate proprietary power amp connectors.
Those car manufacturer crooks are greedy to the bone.
If something break you need to buy their parts instead of a standard one , with a 1500% price upmark. 🤮
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