I cant seem to ruin them.
but they get stinky coils quick when they’re new, but the suspensions are tight as heck. need quite a few hours (12+h on the table @ 20 hz stretching those Chinese glue joints and crusty spiders to break in. (crazy how long it takes ) 😂 if they’re not broken, they sound terrible. dramatic change in the TS parameters is interesting. Because it’s totally obvious
but they get stinky coils quick when they’re new, but the suspensions are tight as heck. need quite a few hours (12+h on the table @ 20 hz stretching those Chinese glue joints and crusty spiders to break in. (crazy how long it takes ) 😂 if they’re not broken, they sound terrible. dramatic change in the TS parameters is interesting. Because it’s totally obvious
Yeah, vAS is insanely different (subsequently the calculated other parameters shift a bunch too (on the datsv3 version of TS parameters)). It’s weird. Really really stiff as new, especially cold in winter 😂
it’s scared me before when just throwing ‘new’ ones in that sounded akward/bad
it’s scared me before when just throwing ‘new’ ones in that sounded akward/bad
So do you recommend them or no?
If so , how do you break the drivers in so to have the intended performance from them
If so , how do you break the drivers in so to have the intended performance from them
Hang the driver in the air and send a 20hz tone to them for like 24 hours. Let the voicecoil cool down and then measure the driver.
I saw a plate class D amp that is rated at 2700Watts @4 ohms , 1500Watts @8 ohms
do you think i can wire the 4ohms coils version in series so each driver is at 8 ohms, i can put the plate amp on one cabinet
and add a spkr out in parallel so one cabinet can drive by itself and a satellite box..@2700 watts
it have DSP and PFC
so basically this need to be built in pairs. if you want only one sub you can use the one with the plate amp.
if we need more headroom there is a bigger one who do
2.4kW@8Ohms and 4.3kW@4 ohms
hope that is not overkill.
do you think i can wire the 4ohms coils version in series so each driver is at 8 ohms, i can put the plate amp on one cabinet
and add a spkr out in parallel so one cabinet can drive by itself and a satellite box..@2700 watts
it have DSP and PFC
so basically this need to be built in pairs. if you want only one sub you can use the one with the plate amp.
if we need more headroom there is a bigger one who do
2.4kW@8Ohms and 4.3kW@4 ohms
hope that is not overkill.
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These CAN ring violently and when bolted down in the vehicle are out of control.
it appears to be workable in a ‘PA’ setting, but when placed in a boundary condition the phase discontinuity suddenly is an area of great concern. its up to you to decide, but that phase discontinuity is the devil when excited. It LOUD
You can’t assume that is going to blend well with other speakers indoors, or in vehicie(it’s NOT!) when slapping a steep XO slope on it either. It doesn’t work that way in reality and it interferes with what you hear In the REAL world…
I dont think it’s as much of a concern as a PA subwoofer…. I don’t think it’s fair to say in that application, I don’t honestly know. But that in the XO area sucks!
However, everyone of us who has put these in a car for daily use(not SPL comp) have removed them unfortunately, within a week or so and returned to a MLTL or reflex 🥲🥲
it appears to be workable in a ‘PA’ setting, but when placed in a boundary condition the phase discontinuity suddenly is an area of great concern. its up to you to decide, but that phase discontinuity is the devil when excited. It LOUD
You can’t assume that is going to blend well with other speakers indoors, or in vehicie(it’s NOT!) when slapping a steep XO slope on it either. It doesn’t work that way in reality and it interferes with what you hear In the REAL world…
I dont think it’s as much of a concern as a PA subwoofer…. I don’t think it’s fair to say in that application, I don’t honestly know. But that in the XO area sucks!
However, everyone of us who has put these in a car for daily use(not SPL comp) have removed them unfortunately, within a week or so and returned to a MLTL or reflex 🥲🥲
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Build one, it’s only $143.l shipped. Then help give real feedback. It’s important instead if endless sims that aren’t necessarily
Booger,
i will use them for PA
not car or home
but i was wondering why some simulations give those not "nice" graphs
and yes, if you have heard that in reality and sound bad, i believe you
so i guess is matter of tweaking the design or just plain use another driver
both escape my knowledge level,
i can try all the 12" car and pa drivers that i can get in the states in a brute force hack atack
but that will take ages,
so the most educated process may be that someone that knows what specs the driver needs to be to narrow the choices or
exactly what dimension to tweak to tame those horrible peaks at the XO point
you said something about the 1/4 wave rule and the 3:1 rule so to have perfect aligned resonators 😀
maybe Brian can chime in, he liked to play with budget drivers to get the most juice out of them
so to create the perfect poor man's sub cabinets , me included 🙂
i will use them for PA
not car or home
but i was wondering why some simulations give those not "nice" graphs
and yes, if you have heard that in reality and sound bad, i believe you
so i guess is matter of tweaking the design or just plain use another driver
both escape my knowledge level,
i can try all the 12" car and pa drivers that i can get in the states in a brute force hack atack
but that will take ages,
so the most educated process may be that someone that knows what specs the driver needs to be to narrow the choices or
exactly what dimension to tweak to tame those horrible peaks at the XO point
you said something about the 1/4 wave rule and the 3:1 rule so to have perfect aligned resonators 😀
maybe Brian can chime in, he liked to play with budget drivers to get the most juice out of them
so to create the perfect poor man's sub cabinets , me included 🙂
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