Thanks, zman and Chris! It took a bit of careful planning to get the layups to match nicely, and I'm very happy with the way the FH3s turned out.
For the rear, I just sanded down the back and edging nice and smooth and did a couple coats of poly. Kept it simple since it looked like it might be a degree of difficulty more to veneer it. Is the flatpak red birch? I like the look of it.
Here's another shot of the figured eucalyptus and EnABLed driver. 🙂
For the rear, I just sanded down the back and edging nice and smooth and did a couple coats of poly. Kept it simple since it looked like it might be a degree of difficulty more to veneer it. Is the flatpak red birch? I like the look of it.
Here's another shot of the figured eucalyptus and EnABLed driver. 🙂
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My Maeshowe Horns
I just finished these today and am listening to the "History of the Eagles" Blu ray. They sounded out of balance and flat before Audyssey was ran, but after they sound great. I finished them using auto paint and an HVLP sprayer. I wet sanded after the first coat and then waxed and buffed them twice after the second. They turned out pretty good, I am a perfectionist when it comes to this sort of thing so I have picked out all the flaws! These took quite some time because when you spray them and try to get an automobile type finish the body has to be perfectly prepared. I went through 4 cycles of priming,filling and sanding. The color was a gray/black metallic pearl single stage paint from "The Coatings Store" which is an online retailer.
I just finished these today and am listening to the "History of the Eagles" Blu ray. They sounded out of balance and flat before Audyssey was ran, but after they sound great. I finished them using auto paint and an HVLP sprayer. I wet sanded after the first coat and then waxed and buffed them twice after the second. They turned out pretty good, I am a perfectionist when it comes to this sort of thing so I have picked out all the flaws! These took quite some time because when you spray them and try to get an automobile type finish the body has to be perfectly prepared. I went through 4 cycles of priming,filling and sanding. The color was a gray/black metallic pearl single stage paint from "The Coatings Store" which is an online retailer.
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Being a "shop" grade maple faced plywood with "mill option" selections of face veneers, I've had successive sheets from - 30count lift vary quite a bit in color from one sheet to the next, and front face to back. Yes, some have been a gorgeous pinkish, others almost bleached white, and others with almost curly/ quilted figuring which is almost shame to veneer over
Nice eucalyptus on the baffles
Nice eucalyptus on the baffles
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Just sat down to a short comparative listening session to the new Mark Audio Alpair 5.2- FH- lite (raw 1/2" ply), and an MLTL by Dr Lindgren (black walnut veneer)
No conclusion yet as to preference
Anyone else been having problems posting photos from iPad? File size is less than 500k
Edit: ps , now that's jus silly - actually, I'll leave them both - one for our oz and kiwi members
Oh, btw - in the meantime, I think I have reached a conclusion
No conclusion yet as to preference
Anyone else been having problems posting photos from iPad? File size is less than 500k
Edit: ps , now that's jus silly - actually, I'll leave them both - one for our oz and kiwi members
Oh, btw - in the meantime, I think I have reached a conclusion
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Shiny!
I just finished these today and am listening to the "History of the Eagles" Blu ray. They sounded out of balance and flat before Audyssey was ran, but after they sound great. I finished them using auto paint and an HVLP sprayer.
They serve double duty for music and HT, so powered by an Onkyo receiver and paired with a Dayton 12HO sub. I really love the Alpairs and FH3s. In my room I get response down to 30hz at my seating position with them run full range.
Ray21
Please, I would like to know your comments about any issue placing the speakers in a room layout like yours, regarding stereo image, not bass, sub turnned off. Left speaker is near a closed corner while the right one is near a open corridor.
Thanks for comments and sharing good woodworking.
Both cases are showing the left hand enclosure in or very near a corner. Whenever possible I try for symmetrical placement in relation to side wall boundaries - but life has a way of getting in the way of your plans
I'd be inclined to try and pull the rear mouth horns out from the wall to give at least half a meter clearance while listening at least.
I'd be inclined to try and pull the rear mouth horns out from the wall to give at least half a meter clearance while listening at least.
Thanks chrisb. As you have mentioned rear mouth what if the horn is front mouth?
BTW that is yet a second crucial question to me, why designers choose front or back mouth?
Again thanks for clarification.
Back mouth allows you to use the boundary as part of the horn, allowing lower horn action with the same size mouth. But it is now dependent on that boundary being there.
dave
While near side wall boundary reinforcement will generally occur with non-dipole designs, something else that can happen with tall, double front mouth designs - such as several by the same designer as the FH3 and Maeshowe - is that a minimum listening distance is required for full integration of what can essentially be considered an MTM configuration.
Yep, Scan-Ken as from Planet10 drawings.
It is interesting to see the internal structure of the 3D printed walls. Not sure if good or bad. I think I can win the price for the laziest speaker builder of history 🙂
D.
Dave,
Could you recommend a material for lining the internal walls? Isn't 12 mm a bit too much for such a small cabinet?
Thanks,
Davide
We get the 12mm cotton felt by the roll, it worked just fine.
Wool or cotton felt is best.
dave
Wool or cotton felt is best.
dave
They all look very nice! The driver seems to be a favorite... which driver am I looking at?
R.
