Did notice something . have been siting on a ottoman which puts you about 13/14 inches off the floor with extremely good sound when I went to a regular card playing folding chair which puts your fanny about 18 inches off the floor the sound was not as deep in the bass especially . ottoman is going back in the room , in my humble 9x13 room. Don't have to play these real loud.
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In almost any domestic room there will be "standing waves" at or near the room length, width and height resonant frequencies. These standing waves are usually in the sub 120Hz region, depending on your room size. As you move around you will notice bass frequency levels vary as you move in and out of the nodes. Damping of the room from soft furnishings and added bass traps can reduce these effects, as can adjusting the amount of stuffing in the FHXL thereby reducing bass output at the resonant frequencies of the room. However, your solution of finding the best sounding location is the easiest and from what you say may be the most comfortable!
If you run a frequency sweep file such as in the Nordost LEDR test/setup CD you can clearly identify the resonant frequencies as boom and nulls.
I would agree that the FHXLs don't need to be played loud, but when needed they will go surprisingly loud, as I know from mine with MA 10.3 drivers. They are an exceptional speaker for the cost and a truly enjoyable listening experience.
Happy Listening
Ian
Some updates on this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/planet-10-hifi/304811-lets-help-ruth-dave-18.html#post5081916
And Chris thought he was the only was the only current member of the team wont to refer to himself in the third person
Long day, and several more small D&S with & after dinner - what a waste of a day - or not?With any luck on breaks in the weather, there may actually be some racing here soon.
Long day, and several more small D&S with & after dinner - what a waste of a day - or not?With any luck on breaks in the weather, there may actually be some racing here soon.
Hello friends.
Thanks for the nice description Markaudio Alpair 10P. I was impressed and decided to apply the Alpair 10P as a midrange in my small project.
Sorry to bad english.
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Detailed can be viewed ???? ?????
Thanks for the nice description Markaudio Alpair 10P. I was impressed and decided to apply the Alpair 10P as a midrange in my small project.
Sorry to bad english.
Detailed can be viewed ???? ?????
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I am planning to build a set of FHXLs and have been breaking in a pair of 10.3 metal coned drivers for a little while now. I have a question about the materials for the cabinet (though I have not yet purchased the plans).
It appears that the front baffle is a single ply of 18mm birch ply and that many have either left this raw or veneered the whole cabinet. I was thinking of gluing and screwing two strips of wood together for the front baffle: the original 18mm birch ply + a 4/4 slab of hardwood (burbinga or paduak). This way, I could round the front edges a bit revealing some of the end grain and then have this meet the veneer on the sides. Just trying to think of a way to make the finished product look more furniture grade and dispense with crisp edges.
Is there any problem with this approach that would dictate I stay with just ply?
It appears that the front baffle is a single ply of 18mm birch ply and that many have either left this raw or veneered the whole cabinet. I was thinking of gluing and screwing two strips of wood together for the front baffle: the original 18mm birch ply + a 4/4 slab of hardwood (burbinga or paduak). This way, I could round the front edges a bit revealing some of the end grain and then have this meet the veneer on the sides. Just trying to think of a way to make the finished product look more furniture grade and dispense with crisp edges.
Is there any problem with this approach that would dictate I stay with just ply?
Hello Eric:
I have made a set of FHXLs from solid wood (i used big leaf maple). It is not too difficult if you spend the time to ensure your wood is stable and dry. The wood should be seasoned to the same (or similar) moisture content as the place the finished product is going to stay. It should have been properly kiln dried first. Assuming the moisture content of your room is stable or at least changes very slowly over the seasons you should be fine.
Good luck
I have made a set of FHXLs from solid wood (i used big leaf maple). It is not too difficult if you spend the time to ensure your wood is stable and dry. The wood should be seasoned to the same (or similar) moisture content as the place the finished product is going to stay. It should have been properly kiln dried first. Assuming the moisture content of your room is stable or at least changes very slowly over the seasons you should be fine.
Good luck