Fostex FE103E...

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#261
chops said:
I do believe that this is either the second or third time I have mentioned Zobel networks with my FE103E drivers, and every time, it simply gets overlooked and/or ignored.
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Something on my list to try, but i'm of the "avoid filters" mentality. I have found that 10 ohms and 2 uF flattens the top of the FE127s impedance. Haven't listened to it yet. With my low output impedance amps i fear it may take away some of the top end.

dave
 
#262
planet10 said:


These drivers tend to like amplifiers withy higher output (low damping factor)

In general, most single ended tube amps will fall into this category, and SS amps exemplifed by FirstWatt F1 & F2. My electonics guy is working on some variable transcomnductance amps -- both diskreet & chip amps, that let you dial in output impedance.

If you can build your wom amp, things like the TubeLab simple SE and a few others make it pretty easy top make an affordable SE amp.

dave
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chops said:
I do believe that this is either the second or third time I have mentioned Zobel networks with my FE103E drivers, and every time, it simply gets overlooked and/or ignored.

I don't know if it's done on purpose or not, but it's getting quite bothersome.

Any particular reason why no one wants to comment on Zobel networks?!
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With a pair of MLTL's I built (FE167's), the bcs created more problems than it solved, pour moi. It kinda damped out that single driver magic. YMMV
Don
 
#265
Scottmoose said:
Afraid not. Time is the issue -I don't have much of it, so DIY designs have to come behind paying work, and my PhD. Sorry. Will try to get something done soon.
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Vampyr also does not suit to conversion to a shelf mount (unless you want to actually make it the shelf -- you could use 2 as uprights and then rotate another and use as a shelf... LRC in one shelf unit)

Tony G has already done a nice shelf-mount.

dave
 
#268
planet10 said:
(unless you want to actually make it the shelf -- you could use 2 as uprights and then rotate another and use as a shelf... LRC in one shelf unit)
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#271
chrisb said:



not that's pretty damned cute, Dave and room underneath for powered woofers
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my typo - should have been now that's pretty damned cute,


Scottmoose said:


I think I want one. And I think I know what the new-year project is going to be. Nice one Ron. 🙂
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Nice indeed, Ron - one more project to add to the forever list (it's just as well there aren't fully dimensioned drawings available )




Love the HT Vampyr layout BTW Dave. 🙂
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Unless you can hang on the wall, you'd definitely want some heavy ballast or extended base plates on the L & R mains on this set-up

Of course, you could always build it into a false wall, around, say a disused fireplace, stuff the flue and install a TL sub ......

Dave, think we could sneak that one in? :cannotbe:
 
#273
REC1 said:
Sims better,
ron
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Hmm, unless there's lots of details missing and your program can sim 3D with all the intermediate reflections to get a ~accurate picture of what's going on inside, then my limited experience with this basic concept and a couple of similar layouts tells me it won't perform very well overall and why I didn't pursue it far enough to maybe stumbling onto the Unity concept decades ago.

Anyway, good luck with it. Hope you make it work with an 'FR' driver.

GM
 
#274
Hmm, unless there's lots of details missing

Yep!

your program can sim 3D with all the intermediate reflections to get a ~accurate picture of what's going on inside,

Yep#2.

This is just a study into the application. I will work on it.

Thanks
ron
 
#275
And we thought you had given up on horns

Not really, just BLHs. IMO asking a FR driver to cover the entire spectrum is pushing performance limits to the edge. The A166 is a good horn but as mentioned some find the delay not to their liking. I really dont understand how a builder can report high marks
on a design then later state there is excessive coloration and an obvious delay?
I did what i could with what i had when it happened.

Still my fav for home audio is the Altec mdl. 14-19 despite the slight horn coloration. Now there will never be the dynamic slam from a WB driver that you get with a compression horn so my current attempt is to find a happy medium between the two.
Maybe i can, maybe i cant.

ron
 
#276
REC1 said:

This is just a study into the application. I will work on it.
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Cool! I wanted to be the one to find a high SQ 'FR' driver Unity concept solution, but with the latest 'hit' on my finances (and more importantly its probable long term effects) it's probably not going to happen now. 🙁

GM
 
#277
REC1 said:

The A166 is a good horn but as mentioned some find the delay not to their liking.
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Yeah, I've been a 'broken record' from day one on the forums WRT BLH design that a low effective mass corner (acoustic XO point) to limit the delay to down below our acute hearing BW is mandatory for high SQ, but folks keep ignoring it and only those who aren't very sensitive to timing issues can tolerate long effective path-length BLHs for any length of time.

GM
 
#278
Originally posted by GM I wanted to be the one to find a high SQ 'FR' driver Unity concept solution, but with the latest 'hit' on my finances (and more importantly its probable long term effects) it's probably not going to happen now. 🙁
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Hi GM, can we collaborate? You have the know-how, and I might already have the drivers just sitting in a box. Did you already narrow down the list of candidates?
 
#279
Not really, just cobbled together some proof-of-concepts with some RS drivers, but with no sufficiently accurate simming software the major stumbling block to pursuing it is the high cost of a TEF measurement system. Theory doesn't take one very far with these beyond what Tom Danley has already posted AFAIK, so to get to his level one needs the same level of his test gear...........

GM
 
#280
Since it seems that the Vampyr will not work in my room, and the thoughts of a bookshelf Vampyr version is not feasible, then how about a simple but decent sized bookshelf that's aperiodically loaded? Something that can get me solid output to 80Hz or so?

As for bass duty, I have removed the Dayton kit subwoofer and am now using the bass section of my 3-way towers that I built years ago. The bass section uses a single Vifa P21WO20 8" driver in a ported 2.34cf enclosure tuned to 40Hz. I am running them in stereo via a Rane AC-22B crossover at 70Hz @ -24dB per octave. They are getting 50 watts each from my AudioSource AMP-100.

This is a very seamless match. In-room response has shown -3dB at 25Hz. They are very tight and detailed, perfect for using along with the FE103E's.
 
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