I have pulled the amp on the speaker that lights up from the controller. Both fuses tested good. I havent done that to the other one yet.
Jack, when I got home from work. I looked under the hood of the controller. On the board are 2 swollen caps in the R131 position. And 1 swollen cap in the R133 position. GUessing this could be the issue?
R131 and R133 are resistors not caps. They are near C108-C111, which are all electrolytic power supply caps.
At this point you are going to need to apply standard repair procedures for electronics.
1) Check fuses and that the power witch is on and that the power cord is plugged in.
2) Put a voltmeter on both of the voltage rails and make sure that the DC voltages are correct. Measure the amount of AC ripple on both rails. This should be very low.
3) If the ripple is high, then the caps may be bad. Put them from the PCB, discharge them and test them for capacitance and ESR if possible. If they measure less than 50% of the value printed on them, replace them.
4) Check the new DC and AC voltages.
At this point you are going to need to apply standard repair procedures for electronics.
1) Check fuses and that the power witch is on and that the power cord is plugged in.
2) Put a voltmeter on both of the voltage rails and make sure that the DC voltages are correct. Measure the amount of AC ripple on both rails. This should be very low.
3) If the ripple is high, then the caps may be bad. Put them from the PCB, discharge them and test them for capacitance and ESR if possible. If they measure less than 50% of the value printed on them, replace them.
4) Check the new DC and AC voltages.
What is the hum problem with the WF-100k amplifiers?
Which input(s) are you using?
Are there any connections between the multiple amplifiers?
Which input(s) are you using?
Are there any connections between the multiple amplifiers?
One works fine, plug 2 in and it hums (2 of mine are mounted back-to-back in a box for external use, but i have never been able to use both of them — completely seperate electrically). I also have 2 “subs” each with an amp.
Same trying to use 2 of those.
It is usually most convienient to use the speaker level input, but i probably have also tired the RCAs.
With 4 essentially identical woofers & amps it would help fill out the below 60 Hz region.
dave
Same trying to use 2 of those.
It is usually most convienient to use the speaker level input, but i probably have also tired the RCAs.
With 4 essentially identical woofers & amps it would help fill out the below 60 Hz region.
dave
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Hi Jack!
Ha, he thought he was safe after all this time!
I’m moving to a new house so am planning to use the 4 Foster paper coned 10” drivers I got back then...
I forget the size sealed box you recommmended. Pretty sure it was like .75 or 1.75 cu ft.
That’s quite a difference!
Or maybe the T/S specs?
Ha, he thought he was safe after all this time!
I’m moving to a new house so am planning to use the 4 Foster paper coned 10” drivers I got back then...
I forget the size sealed box you recommmended. Pretty sure it was like .75 or 1.75 cu ft.
That’s quite a difference!
Or maybe the T/S specs?
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Is the hum being radiated from the amplifiers acoustically or is it being induced onto the amplifiers output and then being reproduced by the woofer?
Does reversing the orientation of one of the amplifiers AC cords where it plugs into the wall outlet have any affect?
What happens if there are no inputs connected to either amplifier?
Does reversing the orientation of one of the amplifiers AC cords where it plugs into the wall outlet have any affect?
What happens if there are no inputs connected to either amplifier?
Jack, today’s your lucky day! I got down one of the 4 boxes, noting that it was a lot heavier than I expected. Turns out they are the massive SEAS subwoofers I got to make the Linkwitz LX 521 speakers, which I put in the container when I was moving here to Costa Rica.
Don’t see the ones from NHT anywhere! Maybe they didn’t make it. After almost 5 years here I still have lots of unopened boxes!
Mark
Don’t see the ones from NHT anywhere! Maybe they didn’t make it. After almost 5 years here I still have lots of unopened boxes!
Mark
Induced. Definitely elecronic hum. Some others have complained about the same, some have not.
I should hook them back up and check again.
I could check, but i hven’t seen any plugs that can be reversed any longer.
I’ll check that too.
Need to dig it out and set it up.
dave
Post a good photo of the PCB where the capacitors are. Also post a photo of the label on the capacitors.
Jack, I see now what you meant about R133. Sorry I didnt look too closely at that last night. And I couldnt get a very good close up the label on the caps.
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All eight of those capacitors should be 470uf/16V. I would check this before doing anything else. If they are, follow my previous instructions. If you don't know how to follow the instructions, I would send the controller to someone who has electronics repair experience. They are also going to need the working subwoofer amplifier and one DIN cable.