Ray,
The calculations in the 2nd order HP filter calculator are only for the HP (high pass) filter in the amplifier. They are completely independent of the behavior and frequency response of the shelving circuit.
You can look at the last pdf on the sale site, just above the amplifier photos to determine how much spectral tilt you get with VR603 in different positions. If you look at the 2nd to last pdf file (WF-100k frequency response..) that is the frequency response of the amplifier as it ships, so that is how much spectral you will get with VR603 in the shipped position.
The S-80 requires slightly different bass eq than the XdW and also requires different crossover settings due to the different high frequency rolloff. You can't just swap it into an Xd system in place of the XdWs. It would require a new filter set for the XdA.
I would just pick up another XdW. I'm fairly sure that NHT still has some available.
The calculations in the 2nd order HP filter calculator are only for the HP (high pass) filter in the amplifier. They are completely independent of the behavior and frequency response of the shelving circuit.
You can look at the last pdf on the sale site, just above the amplifier photos to determine how much spectral tilt you get with VR603 in different positions. If you look at the 2nd to last pdf file (WF-100k frequency response..) that is the frequency response of the amplifier as it ships, so that is how much spectral you will get with VR603 in the shipped position.
The S-80 requires slightly different bass eq than the XdW and also requires different crossover settings due to the different high frequency rolloff. You can't just swap it into an Xd system in place of the XdWs. It would require a new filter set for the XdA.
I would just pick up another XdW. I'm fairly sure that NHT still has some available.
My understanding is that NHT has only the standard color available ; my system is the Dark version ,so the black S-80 would be ok. Also , I' able to get the S-80 for 1/2 the price. I guess I'll just keep looking. Thanks
The S-80 requires slightly different bass eq than the XdW and also requires different crossover settings due to the different high frequency rolloff. You can't just swap it into an Xd system in place of the XdWs. It would require a new filter set for the XdA
Just curious if that new filter set is available from the NHT site?
Just curious if that new filter set is available from the NHT site?
No it's not. NHT didn't make filters for combinations of products that they don't sell. There are too many permutations.
I used to do custom filters but have stopped doing it.
I would just find a Special Dark XdW. Just keep checking eBay.
I used to do custom filters but have stopped doing it.
I would just find a Special Dark XdW. Just keep checking eBay.
Jack: your opinion on M80 monitors?
Jack:
Would you mind sharing your opinion of the M-80 monitors that NHT is selling on their closeout page? I don't know of a single person who has even seen one, let alone heard one.
My thought is they would sound good over my dual NHT 1259 subs.
Thank you for your time!
Jack:
Would you mind sharing your opinion of the M-80 monitors that NHT is selling on their closeout page? I don't know of a single person who has even seen one, let alone heard one.
My thought is they would sound good over my dual NHT 1259 subs.
Thank you for your time!
The M-80 was designed to be a midfield monitor for placement on top of mixing board meter bridges. It is designed to have narrowish vertical dispersion in this application to help eliminate reflections off of the mixing surface. It should only ever be used with the woofers placed in the horizontal plane. If you turn it the other way, you will get extreme comb filtering in the midrange as your head moves side to side. The imaging will suck.
The speaker is capable of playing very loud with low distortion. The woofers are custom Excel units. They can play down to 35Hz fairly loud. I think they are about -3dB at 50Hz in these enclosures. The midranges can play very loud down to about 800Hz. They have an Fo of 650Hz. The frequency response is very smooth from 700Hz out to about 7kHz. There is a wide dip centered at 9-10kHz of about 3-4dB. The domes breakup mode is at 15kHz. I wouldn't cross the tweeter over below 4kHz. It will be the weakest link in the system.
To provide the necessary EQ, crossover functions and time delays, you'll need a 2x6 DSP box. You could do this with a 2x6 active crossover, but you won't have any means to apply EQ. You'll also need some measurement software, such as REW, and a mic to take acoustic measurements to adjust the DSP box.
This is not something that will be a 10 minute job. It could be done in 10 minutes, but if you are into speaker building, I guarantee that you will be tweaking things for quite a while. If you are planning on trying to make them function with a passive crossover, forget about it. The tweeter isn't sensitive enough.
If you use these with dual 1259s, I would crossover somewhere in the 50Hz range. This should give you the most dynamic range out of the system.
The speaker is capable of playing very loud with low distortion. The woofers are custom Excel units. They can play down to 35Hz fairly loud. I think they are about -3dB at 50Hz in these enclosures. The midranges can play very loud down to about 800Hz. They have an Fo of 650Hz. The frequency response is very smooth from 700Hz out to about 7kHz. There is a wide dip centered at 9-10kHz of about 3-4dB. The domes breakup mode is at 15kHz. I wouldn't cross the tweeter over below 4kHz. It will be the weakest link in the system.
To provide the necessary EQ, crossover functions and time delays, you'll need a 2x6 DSP box. You could do this with a 2x6 active crossover, but you won't have any means to apply EQ. You'll also need some measurement software, such as REW, and a mic to take acoustic measurements to adjust the DSP box.
This is not something that will be a 10 minute job. It could be done in 10 minutes, but if you are into speaker building, I guarantee that you will be tweaking things for quite a while. If you are planning on trying to make them function with a passive crossover, forget about it. The tweeter isn't sensitive enough.
If you use these with dual 1259s, I would crossover somewhere in the 50Hz range. This should give you the most dynamic range out of the system.
M80 issues
Jack:
This break up mode you mention at 15k...is that something that can be dealt with in the DSP? I don't understand that issue well. I do have plenty of crossovers for the task, but so far no eq.
Thanks!
Jack:
This break up mode you mention at 15k...is that something that can be dealt with in the DSP? I don't understand that issue well. I do have plenty of crossovers for the task, but so far no eq.
Thanks!
Yes, the 15kHz break up mode can easily be dealt with in a DSP processor. You just program one of the parametric filters in the DSP processor for the correct center frequency, cut and bandwidth. It is very easy to do. You will need to take acoustic measurements to do this, but the equipment cost to do that is virtually zero. Once you have the ability to take acoustic measurements, you will learn an enormous amount about acoustics, audio and speaker design.
Hi Jack,
I'm a new member of the group, I'm looking for a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers for my NHT Model 2.5 (not 2.5i), since the middle rubber dust cap was broken, It would be good if you can help to advise where I can find the parts or other alternative to repair it. thanks in advance, much appreciated.
Best regards, 🙂
Axhahaha
I'm a new member of the group, I'm looking for a pair of 6.5" midbass drivers for my NHT Model 2.5 (not 2.5i), since the middle rubber dust cap was broken, It would be good if you can help to advise where I can find the parts or other alternative to repair it. thanks in advance, much appreciated.
Best regards, 🙂
Axhahaha
Attachments
WTB NHT XDA
My movers lost the amp/processor from my system. I guess that's life - the only thing that they lose, is no longer available !
If anyone has one for offer or know where I might buy one (a dealer with old stock maybe) I'd be much obliged.
I checked with nht sales, they don't have any left unfortunately....
My movers lost the amp/processor from my system. I guess that's life - the only thing that they lose, is no longer available !
If anyone has one for offer or know where I might buy one (a dealer with old stock maybe) I'd be much obliged.
I checked with nht sales, they don't have any left unfortunately....
I know this is an old post. And I've messaged Jack a few weeks ago and never heard back. But does anyone know. If the new amp they sold with the RCA connections are available anywhere? I assume this amp would do away with the need to use the controller?
Last edited:
The modified VT3 amplifers are long gone. Even with one, you would still need the controller as it has the eq for the woofer section in it.
The VT3 controller gets its power from one of the subwoofer amplifiers in the speaker cabinets through the DIN cable. The most likely failure mode is that the DIN cable has gone bad, which keeps the controller from getting power. When this happens no signal gets to the amplifiers.
The VT3 controller gets its power from one of the subwoofer amplifiers in the speaker cabinets through the DIN cable. The most likely failure mode is that the DIN cable has gone bad, which keeps the controller from getting power. When this happens no signal gets to the amplifiers.
Jack,
While we have you here do you have any in-sight into the hum issue some (me in particular) get when 2 WT-100s are both running at the same time. I have 4 i would like to deploy with 4 woofers.
dave
While we have you here do you have any in-sight into the hum issue some (me in particular) get when 2 WT-100s are both running at the same time. I have 4 i would like to deploy with 4 woofers.
dave
Thanks for the info Jack. The controller does light up. Wiggling the cables there is some static through one sides subs though.
Can you suggest and alternative to the amps, bypassing the controller? Like maybe just buying more modern plate amps to run the subs?
Can you suggest and alternative to the amps, bypassing the controller? Like maybe just buying more modern plate amps to run the subs?
You need to determine if the amplifiers are bad or the signal is stopping inside the control unit, before doing anything else. The fact that you get static out of one speaker (presumably the woofers) when you wiggle the DIN cable tells me that the signal is probably being stopped inside the controller.
Try swapping the DIN cables and see if any of the symptoms change.
You are probably going to have to open the controller and probe its outputs with a scope while applying a test signal to the inputs.
Try swapping the DIN cables and see if any of the symptoms change.
You are probably going to have to open the controller and probe its outputs with a scope while applying a test signal to the inputs.
Jack, I only hear that static through the amp that lights up. The other amp doesnt light up. Is there a way to test the amps without running through the controller?
Also I have called NHT, said they repair the amps for $195 each. But I am not so sure its the amps causing the issues.
Also I have called NHT, said they repair the amps for $195 each. But I am not so sure its the amps causing the issues.
You can pull the amplifier out of the cabinet, remove the bucket and look at the fuses in it. I think that there are two fuses, one for each rail. If they are blown, something is wrong with the amplifier. Be really bleeping careful with these amplifiers! They can generate a lot of voltage. Assume the caps on them are charged at all times.
Pin 5 of the DIN cable has the subwoofer audio signal that goes from the controller to the subwoofer amplifier. You can monitor this signal on the output of the controller to see if it is passing a signal or not.
Pin 5 of the DIN cable has the subwoofer audio signal that goes from the controller to the subwoofer amplifier. You can monitor this signal on the output of the controller to see if it is passing a signal or not.