I was not aware that the OP already have a horn for a 2” and wants to use that. Forget about the 10” coaxial then and also PSD2013 is out of question as its 1” screw-on not bolt. I have no experience with 2” drivers so I cannot really help. High sensitive 10” maybe Faital neo.
FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers | 10PR300 (8Ω)
Forget about the selenium d220 it’s also a 1” screw on. Faital probably have HF to match and maybe even pre build crossovers that would fit.
FaitalPRO | LF Loudspeakers | 10PR300 (8Ω)
Forget about the selenium d220 it’s also a 1” screw on. Faital probably have HF to match and maybe even pre build crossovers that would fit.
The 10PR300 will have not much bass (EBP 207, Fs 60Hz)
Another option is the 10RS350 (EBP 100, Fs 40Hz),
Troels uses it in its latest design.
But since you will be using a subwoofer the 10PR300 seems good
Another option is the 10RS350 (EBP 100, Fs 40Hz),
Troels uses it in its latest design.
But since you will be using a subwoofer the 10PR300 seems good
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Yes it’s the standard decision one have to take. Sensitivity vs deep bass vs size. OP must choose which is important for him for us to give any more advice, both the faitals are probably good but for each separate scenarios deep bass vs sensitivity. Amp and room is of interest too. I always find the troels designs a bit weird. Shouldn’t the midrange be in the middle?
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Don't need deep bass as already stated I have 2 12" subs that will blow the roof off.
So this is where I'm leaning:
HF with Azuna Horn (320mm Diameter) mounted on top of the enclosure - 800hz crossover
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-PSD3006-8-2-Titanium-Driver-8-Ohm-290-440
LF 10" - 99db
Faital Pro 10PR410 10" Speakers - Faital Pro 10PR410 10" speaker for midrange speakers - Faital Pro 10PR410 600 watt 10" high efficiency of 99dB SPL midrange speaker for all high power bass applications. Faital Pro 10PR410
LPad Attenuator to control the HF
1.5 cubic ft enclosure
Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 1.5 cu. ft. Subwoofer Cabinet for 10" Subwoofers
Crossover at 800hz +/-
Will have custom stands built, 1" steel, filled
So this is where I'm leaning:
HF with Azuna Horn (320mm Diameter) mounted on top of the enclosure - 800hz crossover
https://www.parts-express.com/Eminence-PSD3006-8-2-Titanium-Driver-8-Ohm-290-440
LF 10" - 99db
Faital Pro 10PR410 10" Speakers - Faital Pro 10PR410 10" speaker for midrange speakers - Faital Pro 10PR410 600 watt 10" high efficiency of 99dB SPL midrange speaker for all high power bass applications. Faital Pro 10PR410
LPad Attenuator to control the HF
1.5 cubic ft enclosure
Denovo Audio Knock-Down MDF 1.5 cu. ft. Subwoofer Cabinet for 10" Subwoofers
Crossover at 800hz +/-
Will have custom stands built, 1" steel, filled
May work but it depends how “high” your subs go and how low the 10” midrange will go in that box. 80-120Hz is very critical. Are your subs active and with variable LPF and phase? Do you plan to put them close? At 100hz it’s getting directional. Secondly it’s difficult to predict how the CD will work in your horn. Perhaps plan for a DSP/EQ box to even things out even with a passive xo this is a good idea.
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Subs are active yes, will easily go that high. I've had them paired with a 5" driver before with no complaints
100 watt into a 99dB mid will give you 119dB (10+10). For the sub to keep up with that it will need 2000 watt (+33dB😉
So what is your amp plans or what is the max SPL of your sub.
So what is your amp plans or what is the max SPL of your sub.
So.. question...
If the HF is
111.4dB (1W/1m across 500 Hz-18 kHz)
and the LF
97dB (1w/1m across 60 to 4,000Hz)
Difference of 14.4dB - is it ok to tame this much of difference with an L-pad?
Like I said, I am a total beginner here.. still trying to wrap my head around everything
Subs are active 12", 650w. I have two of them. Room is 14x14.
If the HF is
111.4dB (1W/1m across 500 Hz-18 kHz)
and the LF
97dB (1w/1m across 60 to 4,000Hz)
Difference of 14.4dB - is it ok to tame this much of difference with an L-pad?
Like I said, I am a total beginner here.. still trying to wrap my head around everything
Subs are active 12", 650w. I have two of them. Room is 14x14.
Do you know the sensitivity of the sub? There is a chance the sub will be the weakest link here meaning you will need some sort of gain reduction on the whole top. Yes attenuate the HF about -12dB is fine. You can either just use a serial resistor and make crossover to that total impedance maybe 20ohm but a variable Lpad would probably be a good choice here as you won’t really know the response in your horn.
I’d make a logical layout diagram with everything from source to master volume via eq/dsp, signal split to sub and top amp, active or passive crossovers hf protection and component sensitivity.
I’d make a logical layout diagram with everything from source to master volume via eq/dsp, signal split to sub and top amp, active or passive crossovers hf protection and component sensitivity.
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Unfortunately I'm not sure what the sensitivity of the sub is .. they go super loud (louder than I'd ever need for my room) and I have a pair
That’s good but then you need to make sure you have the option to reduce the gain of the super sensitive PA tops your building to make them match the less sensitive high power subs 🙂
Let’s for simplicity assume that the sub is 89dB and 400 watt. That’s a range of +26dB. Max SPL 115dB. The midrange would need 40 watt for the same with its 99dB. And the HF only 4 watt with its 109dB to keep up with the sub at 400 and the mid assuming its 40 watt. It shows the relation of how much power reduction you need for the top either active or passive. You could reduce -10 active by gain or smaller amp (65watt) for the whole top and another -10 for the HF only, passive using LPAD. So there are design decision. The mid could potentially play 122dB at 200 watt but the sub will most likely not follow. The HF could easily follow using only 20 watt. You need to look at amps and gains, active and passive crossovers etc. a system drawing always helps.
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....... I always find the troels designs a bit weird. Shouldn’t the midrange be in the middle?
It is explained in the link
" The reason for having the midrange driver not flush-mounted and on top of the tweeter is to take advantage of the above alignment, assuming listening height on midrange on-axis. This way we can avoid a stepped baffle making an overall easier cabinet construction."
and :
" The speakers need some stands to have the midrange at ear height.
For my listening chair - and ear height, some 35 cm. Adjust height to your conditions."
Faital-3WC-10
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I see, thanks I guess thats why my old Tannoy Profile 631 are upside down as well 🙂
At OP maybe make a chart like this for better advice.
At OP maybe make a chart like this for better advice.
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The B&C DCX464 2" coaxial compression driver gets good reviews.
A modest size horn could reach 600Hz and support a smooth crossover to a sealed 2cuft Faital 15" 15PR400 with -F3 ~80Hz for a smooth crossover to subwoofers.
Purchasing the DCX464 and 15PR400 for your first build would support a future trip to "Big Horn Country"
A modest size horn could reach 600Hz and support a smooth crossover to a sealed 2cuft Faital 15" 15PR400 with -F3 ~80Hz for a smooth crossover to subwoofers.
Purchasing the DCX464 and 15PR400 for your first build would support a future trip to "Big Horn Country"
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