Where in the UK are you located? You may have luck if you can find nearby diy people that would be willing to help. If you can learn to do all the measurements, or find someone near you that would, that is a first step. Do you have any groups close that you could join up with? Even if you hire out the job, those in box/ on horn measurements are the key to it all.
Ah, I'm actually not in the UK anymore - I've been in the US for over 10 years, currently in Miami.. need to update my profile
Might be tricky finding someone like that down here but you never know
Might be tricky finding someone like that down here but you never know
You might want to learn how to do some mic by yourself. Provide the measurements here and the forum will help you with the crossover design.
Man, that is going to be a fun day to un box that Horn.
Eventually it could be as simple as using a adjustable active crossover for the Horn.
And powered with a separate amplifier the level is easily controlled.
Of course most would be pretty eager to have a listen when the horn arrives.
So at least a passive crossover with a padding resistor or L pad will allow
the first listen.
I was thinking of a similar system using a live sound 10" or 12"
with a 600 to 800 Hz Horn.
Originally was looking at the Dual Cone Eminence Beta 12 LTA
But your approach should work well with the 10"
Same Idea something simple and accurate in a sealed box.
And just use a sub for the low end.
There is a nice thump and detail with drums with live sound drivers
in a sealed box.
Think your going to have a lot of fun with this one
Eventually it could be as simple as using a adjustable active crossover for the Horn.
And powered with a separate amplifier the level is easily controlled.
Of course most would be pretty eager to have a listen when the horn arrives.
So at least a passive crossover with a padding resistor or L pad will allow
the first listen.
I was thinking of a similar system using a live sound 10" or 12"
with a 600 to 800 Hz Horn.
Originally was looking at the Dual Cone Eminence Beta 12 LTA
But your approach should work well with the 10"
Same Idea something simple and accurate in a sealed box.
And just use a sub for the low end.
There is a nice thump and detail with drums with live sound drivers
in a sealed box.
Think your going to have a lot of fun with this one
Really appreciate the response!
I am very excited… i have everything ordered, arriving early next week. Going to take it slow and try not to mess anything up. Active always an option for sure.. I can try that further down the line after I get over the initial anxiety of this first build haha
I am very excited… i have everything ordered, arriving early next week. Going to take it slow and try not to mess anything up. Active always an option for sure.. I can try that further down the line after I get over the initial anxiety of this first build haha
If my passive crossover doesn't work out (there's a chance) - I was looking into crown amps with built in crossovers.. high/low/band with adjustable frequency (and gain)
The connection is making my head spin a little.. I drew out a layman's diagram...
Am I insane? Would this work? 🙂
(Oops - there's an error on the diagram with the frequencies...
I would try something like
High pass 800Hz
Band pass 60-800hz)
The connection is making my head spin a little.. I drew out a layman's diagram...
Am I insane? Would this work? 🙂
(Oops - there's an error on the diagram with the frequencies...
I would try something like
High pass 800Hz
Band pass 60-800hz)
Attachments
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Oops - there's an error on the diagram with the frequencies...
I would try something like
High pass 800Hz
Band pass 60-800hz
I would try something like
High pass 800Hz
Band pass 60-800hz
Looks right.
The crowns is a good idea with its crossovers and eq.
I would still have a passive high pass crossover and a bulb for the tweeter just for protection.
By the way the crowns have link out so you don’t need any RCA splitter.
Put the subs last in chain and you can daisy everything.
By I don’t see a need for the Yamaha at all to be honest and the wireless stuff I don’t know but might introduce delay 😉
I’d cut between sub and 10” around 80 or maybe 100hz given the small sealed box you had in mind.
The crowns is a good idea with its crossovers and eq.
I would still have a passive high pass crossover and a bulb for the tweeter just for protection.
By the way the crowns have link out so you don’t need any RCA splitter.
Put the subs last in chain and you can daisy everything.
By I don’t see a need for the Yamaha at all to be honest and the wireless stuff I don’t know but might introduce delay 😉
I’d cut between sub and 10” around 80 or maybe 100hz given the small sealed box you had in mind.
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For crossover experimenting I would purchase a $60 used stereo graphic equalizer. Those typically have 18 db/octave rolloffs. Then with a stereo amp you can set up the drivers and enclosure to suit the performance curve you want. I've done this. I picked up a Peavey EQ-215 for $60 + freight + sales tax. These typically have a bass cut button to eliminate woofer dancing as musicians walk across the stage.
Then going passive for final build, you can buy expensive inductors & capacitors to attempt to achieve the same crossover frequencies without electronics.
I'm not looking up your drivers, but if you post inductance & resistance for each I would look at the David Weems formulas and see what he recommends for the frequencies you are listing.
I tested my Peavey horn & RX22 driver with a 75 W amp turned down to 1 W, a fm radio as driver, and a series 10 uf cap I had in inventory, to see if it worked. No problem.
The expense of your caps & inductors goes up considerably as you increase wattage capability of your speaker. You can do a first test at 1 W with parallel combinations of 1 uf 50 V ceramic caps, at about $.20 each. You can look at parts-express for the cost of the real 200 v rated polyprophylene caps, 15 ga jensen air core inductors, etc. $$ .
Then going passive for final build, you can buy expensive inductors & capacitors to attempt to achieve the same crossover frequencies without electronics.
I'm not looking up your drivers, but if you post inductance & resistance for each I would look at the David Weems formulas and see what he recommends for the frequencies you are listing.
I tested my Peavey horn & RX22 driver with a 75 W amp turned down to 1 W, a fm radio as driver, and a series 10 uf cap I had in inventory, to see if it worked. No problem.
The expense of your caps & inductors goes up considerably as you increase wattage capability of your speaker. You can do a first test at 1 W with parallel combinations of 1 uf 50 V ceramic caps, at about $.20 each. You can look at parts-express for the cost of the real 200 v rated polyprophylene caps, 15 ga jensen air core inductors, etc. $$ .
So everything arrived, wired it up as a test and it sounds PHENOMENAL. What am I missing here?! This gives my harbeths a run for their money honestly. Can’t wait for the azura horns to arrive, but wow first impressions are stellar
Ended up using two Lpads to tone down the highs and it all integrates beautifully with my dual subs
Ended up using two Lpads to tone down the highs and it all integrates beautifully with my dual subs
Awesome. What did you end up with on crossovers and amps? The knock down cabinet looks effective did the cut out fit the faital directly? What’s your plan with finish, stain etc?
Sexy!
My 3way is built on a PE sub box! F'in solid boxes. Are you going to paint it? I just put a few coats of "Tried&True orig." on mine- it is beeswax + linseed oil. No bad fumes- turns orange/brown-ish.
My 3way is built on a PE sub box! F'in solid boxes. Are you going to paint it? I just put a few coats of "Tried&True orig." on mine- it is beeswax + linseed oil. No bad fumes- turns orange/brown-ish.
They came out better than expected - I'm 90% complete. The sound is astonishingly good.
Custom Speaker Design 800Hz Azura Horn - YouTube
Custom Speaker Design 800Hz Azura Horn - YouTube
