These drivers were designed for use by OEMs. DIYers can be thankful they have access to them. Many driver manufacturers don't bother dealing with the fickle DIY crowd. Design engineers working for OEMs have their own way of utilising drivers, if they used the driver manufacturers designs there would be nothing to differentiate one brand from the next.
Most DIYers who have a bit of design experience shouldn't have too many problems developing a crossover for these drivers. Afterall this is "Do It Yourself" rather than "Have Someone Do It For You".
Most DIYers who have a bit of design experience shouldn't have too many problems developing a crossover for these drivers. Afterall this is "Do It Yourself" rather than "Have Someone Do It For You".
I’ll happily teach JT how to fish. What say you, @jtgofish ??
A) Mount it on a baffle of your desired dimensions (the nature of the coaxial means that the mid’s cone shape/profile controls the tweeter response’s, meaning your baffle’s specific dimensions will have a more limited effect on the tweeter, than say, a completely bare dome tweeter on a baffle)
That is, to a larger extent, the cone IS the waveguide.
B) for the crossover region, look at the driver’s off axis response at 60 degrees. Notice the frequency region where the blue and the red graphs diverge at around the same approximate in SPL as the difference between cyan and purple. So that’s somewhere between 1.5KHz and 2.5 KHz. This is the ball park where you will want to stitch the woofer curve to tweeter curves together. ie. the crossover.
C) Now, you gave Madisound’s suggestion for cabinet designs. Are you planning to use a subwoofer? Build the sealed cabinet and integrate your sub later.
Planning to play without a sub- build something that you can are happy with the size of.
Now proceed to build it and see! (Listen)
Have fun!
A) Mount it on a baffle of your desired dimensions (the nature of the coaxial means that the mid’s cone shape/profile controls the tweeter response’s, meaning your baffle’s specific dimensions will have a more limited effect on the tweeter, than say, a completely bare dome tweeter on a baffle)
That is, to a larger extent, the cone IS the waveguide.
B) for the crossover region, look at the driver’s off axis response at 60 degrees. Notice the frequency region where the blue and the red graphs diverge at around the same approximate in SPL as the difference between cyan and purple. So that’s somewhere between 1.5KHz and 2.5 KHz. This is the ball park where you will want to stitch the woofer curve to tweeter curves together. ie. the crossover.
C) Now, you gave Madisound’s suggestion for cabinet designs. Are you planning to use a subwoofer? Build the sealed cabinet and integrate your sub later.
Planning to play without a sub- build something that you can are happy with the size of.
Now proceed to build it and see! (Listen)
Have fun!
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if we're going there, how about the 12" Faital Pro 12HX500 Coax?
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/Coaxial_Loudspeakers/product_details/datasheet.php?id=351050020
Could cross around 1KHz.
For PA use, sensitivity is a bit low (96dB/2.83 V) for 2pi.
Sealed in 3/4 cu ft F6 is about 80Hz so you could cross to a sub.
Vented in a 1 cu ft F3 is about the same.
A Fold back? E-drum speaker?
I don’t design for pro audio so I wonder what the ideal use case is?
For hi-fi I’d prefer something with a smoother HF response.
For PA use, sensitivity is a bit low (96dB/2.83 V) for 2pi.
Sealed in 3/4 cu ft F6 is about 80Hz so you could cross to a sub.
Vented in a 1 cu ft F3 is about the same.
A Fold back? E-drum speaker?
I don’t design for pro audio so I wonder what the ideal use case is?
For hi-fi I’d prefer something with a smoother HF response.
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THE UPCOMING SATORI COAXIAL MYSTERY PROJECT ... (my round propper body is waiting to be touched only by you .. yam-yam)
... is looking for an easy DIY victim with appropriate budget to burn , in order to get timeless fame on dis crazy board full of hobby burnateerz
What are you waiting for .. go and grab me
regards, Sir Burnalot
... is looking for an easy DIY victim with appropriate budget to burn , in order to get timeless fame on dis crazy board full of hobby burnateerz
What are you waiting for .. go and grab me
regards, Sir Burnalot
@frangus haven't tried them but would be tempted if I did have so many projects lined up already. Be aware that Marvelaudio has managed to imagine for himself that the Satori drivers are somehow used in the MoFi-speakers and you can therefore say something about the performance of the Satoris by reading MoFi reviews - this is obviously nonsense.
The pros and cons of coax-drivers as a concept have been well-described here and many other places, but don't let that - or people's nonsensical and unresearched opinions - let that stop you if you want to experiment and the Satoris otherwise fit your requirements.
The pros and cons of coax-drivers as a concept have been well-described here and many other places, but don't let that - or people's nonsensical and unresearched opinions - let that stop you if you want to experiment and the Satoris otherwise fit your requirements.
**** can happen anytime , I'm not perfect! I have already declared I was on the wrong track regarding the Satori/SB Acoustics coax drivers used by Mobile Fidelity , which is NOT the case! Unless Andrew Jones confess himself they are special OEM items build deep down in the cellars of SBA secretly
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But why do you then keep posting those links in response to a specific question about the Satori driver? That's not "**** happens" - that's exactly the kind of sabotage behaviour you call others out for doing!. Anyway, back on topic from here.**** can happen anytime , I'm not perfect! I have already declared I was on the wrong track regarding the Satori/SB Acoustics coax drivers used by Mobile Fidelity , which is NOT the case! Unless Andrew Jones confess himself they are special OEM items build deep down in the cellars of SBA secretly
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That 'shape' looks to me common in every single coax design - look at the smaller SBAs, the Seas coaxes - everything. Also single driver full range and cone tweeters.
I think its related to reflection from the cone and often there's peaks on axis corresponding to dips off axis and it suggests to me that the power output is much less choppy and unless your head is in a vice nearfield in an anechoic chamber then it is probably not as alarming as might first seem.
Tested and implemented with LR4 @2Khz here:
https://www.justdiyit.com/sb-acoustics-satori-mt19cp-8-r1-coax/
https://www.justdiyit.com/sb-acoustics-satori-mt19cp-8-r1-coax/