ccschua said:1.
3. What is the difference between aftermarket clock and Citizen 30ppm clock ?
The Citizen is just a crystal, not a clock as such.
DaveM said:Erik,
Could you share how you are getting the AES/EBU out from your shinga?
Thanks
Dave
I use a complete Wadia 23 output board... with a dedicated power supply and a super regulator.
The connection is the digital out.
Is there a relatively easy or cheap way to get the aes/ebu out? I don't foresee that I will find the output board from a good cd player to make it happen.
aes out
DaveM
AES out is easy. I have been using it for several months- sounds great. On my setup I made a very small board and wired, as per attachment. I used a Newava S22083 transformer from digikey, about $9, or you can probably use a Pulse transformer from mouser # 673-PE-65612, it used to be about $4 although the inductance is higher. After a few tests I ended up with a 47R resistor. I tied the ground on the Neutrik connector to chassis ground. I had some Belden AES 110R cable (2meters), and did not use a transformer on the input to my monica DAC. On the monica side, I just followed the datasheet for the CS8414- AES receiver hookup. One final thing check the voltage on the output to make sure it is not too high for your the DAC. I seem to recall that AES/EBU is about 10V max, but don't quote me.
JimS
DaveM
AES out is easy. I have been using it for several months- sounds great. On my setup I made a very small board and wired, as per attachment. I used a Newava S22083 transformer from digikey, about $9, or you can probably use a Pulse transformer from mouser # 673-PE-65612, it used to be about $4 although the inductance is higher. After a few tests I ended up with a 47R resistor. I tied the ground on the Neutrik connector to chassis ground. I had some Belden AES 110R cable (2meters), and did not use a transformer on the input to my monica DAC. On the monica side, I just followed the datasheet for the CS8414- AES receiver hookup. One final thing check the voltage on the output to make sure it is not too high for your the DAC. I seem to recall that AES/EBU is about 10V max, but don't quote me.
JimS
Boombox transport trend?
Stello's transport mechanism looks pretty similar...
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/aprilmusic2/stello.html

Stello's transport mechanism looks pretty similar...
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/aprilmusic2/stello.html
For $2,500 I would have expected a little more finished solution to the door and TOC, but thanks for the link as it gave me an idea for my build since I was planning to essentially do the same thing with an integrated preamp/headphone amp.
m.massimo said:it seems similar, but it's not the same. JVC has a Sanyo SF-P101N, this transport has a Samsung SOH-AAN
So... Who is going to be the first to try to find a Samsung SOH-AAN and see if it can be modded in a similar fashion?
BoilermakerFan said:
So... Who is going to be the first to try to find a Samsung SOH-AAN and see if it can be modded in a similar fashion?
Here's one for $41USD but no details or pics.
SOH-ANN
Regards,
Dan 😕
dantwomey said:
That's cheap. Sorry for turning you on 😎
How much would a CDM PRO cost?
I agree with youBoilermakerFan said:For $2,500 I would have expected a little more finished solution to the door and TOC
dantwomey said:
A caution in that you are probably only looking at the optical pickup for that price, not the transport.
You're possibly quite right. Here's a link with a pic.hayenc said:
A caution in that you are probably only looking at the optical pickup for that price, not the transport.
Thanks Jims.
So, just to clarify, is the output chip on the shinga the CSB 420? Meaning, I would take the + and - digital signals off my shinga and run them through a resistor to get the proper level and than through that transformer to get the proper output.
So, just to clarify, is the output chip on the shinga the CSB 420? Meaning, I would take the + and - digital signals off my shinga and run them through a resistor to get the proper level and than through that transformer to get the proper output.
Hi
I remove all parts. Before I did it I practice on old modem card. No need two iron, warm solder place and gentle push up and another side only warm and remove SMD parts. I didnt cut trace and dont need jumper 5A-5B.
Only to find a couple parts.
I made some drawing for box.
I saw two type of mounting with TWO screw. What is better : diagonal or on the motor side???
Any part number for pushbutton switch for command????
Thanks
Duka
I remove all parts. Before I did it I practice on old modem card. No need two iron, warm solder place and gentle push up and another side only warm and remove SMD parts. I didnt cut trace and dont need jumper 5A-5B.
Only to find a couple parts.
I made some drawing for box.
I saw two type of mounting with TWO screw. What is better : diagonal or on the motor side???
Any part number for pushbutton switch for command????
Thanks
Duka
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