Here is a quick drawing of the planned build. Comments welcome.
I made the baffle slightly wider than 15", but i was wondering how wide a baffle can be accommodated without having to make major changes to the crossover? This is purely a question from convenience, since we are planning to use tabletop wood for the baffles and these tend to come in widths of 62cm or more...
I made the baffle slightly wider than 15", but i was wondering how wide a baffle can be accommodated without having to make major changes to the crossover? This is purely a question from convenience, since we are planning to use tabletop wood for the baffles and these tend to come in widths of 62cm or more...
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silasmellor.... Thanks for posting the drawing... Should work just fine... you can add an inch or two to the width to add a touch of efficiency... The main thing is the woofer is up off the floor and the Vifa is at a typical listening height for a seated listener. Please let us know how things turn out for you.
Can you use some summer heat? Over 100 F. here in central Texas... Too early for this! Need to share with someone!
Good luck!
Can you use some summer heat? Over 100 F. here in central Texas... Too early for this! Need to share with someone!
Good luck!John, thanks for the feedback! i since added wings, which is another two inches. Will build them next weekend and report back looking forward to it! The thrill of the build...
We don’t quite have that kind of heat, but may and some of April has been uncharacteristically hot here in Denmark as well, we’ve had more sun than the last two summers already. I don’t mind, though I think the kind of heat you’ve got would be too much for me also...
looking forward to it! The thrill of the build...We don’t quite have that kind of heat, but may and some of April has been uncharacteristically hot here in Denmark as well, we’ve had more sun than the last two summers already. I don’t mind, though I think the kind of heat you’ve got would be too much for me also...
Hey again, last question before i post build updates, promise! After some back-and-forth about the wood choice, we found some nice-looking glued laminated wood boards. However, they are only 16mm thick. Can this work or is it too thin for proper rigidity?
The design we ended up on was this:
The wings should help in bracing the baffle, and there will also be a shelf at the bottom on the backside that will be glued to the wings.
What is your take on this?
The design we ended up on was this:
The wings should help in bracing the baffle, and there will also be a shelf at the bottom on the backside that will be glued to the wings.
What is your take on this?
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Yes, the foot will be sorted once we’ve got the baffle assembled with the wings, it’s a little hard to assess the balance of those things. I suspect it will need to be considerably wider, like you say.
Another question, I just found out the one of the 20mh could has a cracked end piece. It is one like this:
2.20mH Iron Cored+discs 1.00mm Rdc 0,260 Ohm
Only 20mh. It is a piece on one end about .5 cm wide and 3 cl long that has cracked off. What are the chances we can just glue that back on and pretend it never happened?
Another question, I just found out the one of the 20mh could has a cracked end piece. It is one like this:
2.20mH Iron Cored+discs 1.00mm Rdc 0,260 Ohm
Only 20mh. It is a piece on one end about .5 cm wide and 3 cl long that has cracked off. What are the chances we can just glue that back on and pretend it never happened?
Nice topic!
Didnt read it all but since it is a LR2 crossover, is it a good idea to mount the tweeter at the back of the baffle? Front baffle would need a kind of waveguide opening in the baffle for tweeter (and the woofer mounted on the front).
So tweeter and woofer are(better) time-aligned and tweeter would not have any breating issues at the back.
Another question:
If this speaker is driven fully active with dsp, is the 20mH coil still needed?
Didnt read it all but since it is a LR2 crossover, is it a good idea to mount the tweeter at the back of the baffle? Front baffle would need a kind of waveguide opening in the baffle for tweeter (and the woofer mounted on the front).
So tweeter and woofer are(better) time-aligned and tweeter would not have any breating issues at the back.
Another question:
If this speaker is driven fully active with dsp, is the 20mH coil still needed?
yes u can glue back on. use a hard setting epoxy, no soft adhesives , and make sure u align it so the parts fit exact. Good to clamp it as well. Ive done this many times
For reasons of better sonics and floor bounce, that's why. The Manzanita has a better balanced bass with the gap between baffle and floor. It's part of the woofer, the baffle size and a few other things. John can explain better. We've had the discussion several times over the years, and there is some of it here in the thread.