Here's another option to consider. The pins are pure, thick copper, and the wire I used is #12AWG Mogami W3101. That's 4mm² wire in a pure copper pin, soldered with 10% silver-loaded solder. I recommend a 60-80W soldering iron for the job..
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/165045?qs=HjC056NR38F9ygYZj8ieGw==&countrycode=AU¤cycode=AUD
The copper pins are thick but fairly soft at the same time... and are long enough to be inserted into any terminal (connector/block) you wish to use...
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/165045?qs=HjC056NR38F9ygYZj8ieGw==&countrycode=AU¤cycode=AUD
The copper pins are thick but fairly soft at the same time... and are long enough to be inserted into any terminal (connector/block) you wish to use...
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@roboDNA most of my work (day job) revolves around listed/approved manufacturerd assemblies which are to be installed according to the included instructions to maintian the approval. I've moved to Wago lever-lock terminals for custom control circuits (sensors, timers, switches, relays) and use their snap in bases but haven't designed a PCB to try their through hole solderable terminals yet but find the idea very attractive, particularly for bench/experimental use. As an example, the TH unit in the screenshot is UL rated to 20A for use-group B (general electrical appliance) and 32A by the IEC. Solid, strand, fine strand with or without a ferrule. They are somewhat expensive compared to the ubiquitous, green Phoenix Contact screw terminals with a pressure plate though.
@seventenths those seem like the best option for sure. Looks milspec with the snap pressure bar type of fastener. I'll check for their through-hole if I do up new power splitter boards on my second build.
By the way, I'm looking at my PEM for the first time, and see 2 fuses, 1 for line and 1 for neutral. Should I include two 2.5amp fuses? ( I recall reading somewhere only 1 fuse is needed... oh from the BAF talk ) Using Antek AS-3218
Also, do I need to 'jumper' each of the two fused output tabs into their corresponding tabs behind the switch? If my eyes are not deceiving me, do I see someone has soldered wires directly to the tabs to jumper them instead of using spade connectors?
By the way, I'm looking at my PEM for the first time, and see 2 fuses, 1 for line and 1 for neutral. Should I include two 2.5amp fuses? ( I recall reading somewhere only 1 fuse is needed... oh from the BAF talk ) Using Antek AS-3218
Also, do I need to 'jumper' each of the two fused output tabs into their corresponding tabs behind the switch? If my eyes are not deceiving me, do I see someone has soldered wires directly to the tabs to jumper them instead of using spade connectors?
I made my first attempt at using the Channellock 909 crimping tool with spade connectors. I use the 'uninsulated' part of the tool, and apply demon force. When I give the connector a pull to test how solid it is, it comes off. I've tried several so far with the same result. Should I try using a different tool which a narrower crimping footprint or smaller crimping opening? Or maybe I should try using the 'non insulated' part of the tool? ( that seems to destroy the plastic insulation )
UPDATE: It does seem that I'm using the wrong crimping tool. I'll order a Preciva crimping tool which crimps differently than the Channellock 909.
UPDATE: It does seem that I'm using the wrong crimping tool. I'll order a Preciva crimping tool which crimps differently than the Channellock 909.
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Is your PEM a Schurter by chance? if yes, get the Schurter 4301.1413 drawer, that will make it into a single fuse. https://www.digikey.com/short/ctzf3rnm
You do not want two 2.5A fuses, as you must insure that the fuse on the live blows in a fault. The best way to do this is with the above drawer.
Ok thanks. Is it better to use a 10A fuse on the neutral, and 2.5A fuse on the line? I'm trying to think of a downside to having 2 fuses if the neutral is at 4x the value of the line fuse. I guess having only 1 fuse lessens the odds of someone (me) putting in 2 fuses of the same value?
I have all my boards done and am mounting them into the case. I'm starting to look at how to earth ground all panels and heat sinks. Does the earth ground connect from the PEM to the grid base at the standoff screw of the power board? I plan on having all earth grounds meet at that point, including the transormer earth ground. I"m considering running a wire from each panel to the grid so that they are grounded even if panel screws are removed. Should I be considering a different approach? Just curious to find how others have grounded the panels.
Connect the earth ground from the PEM via a green/yellow wire with a closed loop lug to your chassis on a dedicated non ferrous screw (don’t use a standoff screw) with star washer and bolt. Once this is very solid then you can add on top on this as many extra wires to different locations in your amp.
Ok thanks. I'm thinking of using spade connectors on the panel end of the earth ground wires so I can quickly disconnect them when removing panels. ( and a closed loop connector on the dedicated earth ground screw on the base plate ) I didn't see any pictures showing where the earth ground connects under the PSU board but I"m assuming it's right beside the PSU standoff which is grounded. I guess I'll also need to drill holes in the panels, and use a pre-tapped hole in the heatsinks.
If your chassis is anodized, for connection of the chassis panels to safety ground I suggest you grind off the anodization at one screw connection point between each panel for bare metal to bare metal contact. Then there is no need for wired connection of the panels.
If you are using the F5M power supply board, the standoff location next to the thermistor connected to the power supply ground is the grounding point to the chassis. Remove the chassis anodization around the standoff hole in the chassis for a good connection to the chassis and safety ground.
At the power entry module safety ground location, do not use any type of quick connector on the safety ground wire to chassis. The safety ground wire is intended to be permanently fastened for safety so that it cannot be accidentally disconnected. Solder the wire to the power entry module.
At the chassis safety ground connection, anodization should be removed from the chassis, a star washer placed against the chassis as e fortier mentioned, and double nuts placed on top of the safety ground wire. Use a ring terminal connector soldered to the end of the safety wire for the connection.
If you are using the F5M power supply board, the standoff location next to the thermistor connected to the power supply ground is the grounding point to the chassis. Remove the chassis anodization around the standoff hole in the chassis for a good connection to the chassis and safety ground.
At the power entry module safety ground location, do not use any type of quick connector on the safety ground wire to chassis. The safety ground wire is intended to be permanently fastened for safety so that it cannot be accidentally disconnected. Solder the wire to the power entry module.
At the chassis safety ground connection, anodization should be removed from the chassis, a star washer placed against the chassis as e fortier mentioned, and double nuts placed on top of the safety ground wire. Use a ring terminal connector soldered to the end of the safety wire for the connection.
Good info. thanks. For grounding panels, I'll grind down panel screw connection points as you suggest. If I also connect a wire to each panel for added safety ( loop connector at common ground bolt, and spade connector at panel end ), do I need to worry about introducing ground hum or ground loop? Knowing me, I would leave the most important screw off the panel ( the earth ground screw ) while working on it so I'm considering a quick disconnect earth ground on each panel and the heat sinks.
The connection of all chassis panels together is so that the any accidental grounding of power to the chassis is conducted to ground which will blow the fuse for safety. The safety grounding of the chassis should not introduce hum.
Connection of the amplifier ground is a different issue. Safety ground and amplifier/audio ground are two different things.
Connection of the amplifier ground is a different issue. Safety ground and amplifier/audio ground are two different things.
I'm about to bend the leads on the mosfets for the amp board. I mounted them on the heatsink. Do I just eyeball the bends in the leads or are there marks or specific parts of the lead that I reference for making the bends?
Ok great, thanks.
For the inputs, I'm looking to use "Contour 3224 audio cable". I plan on using my Soundcraft mixer as a pre-amp. It has XLR and TS 1/4" outputs: Outputs: 150Ω (balanced), 75Ω (unbalanced)
Will this cable be ok? ( Do I need to worry if I end up using unbalanced input? ) I read somewhere using CAT6 twisted pair is ok but not for unbalanced. ( not sure why )
https://www.avshop.ca/wire-amp-cable/bulk-wire/brtb-contour-3224-microphone-cable-1000ft-305m
For the inputs, I'm looking to use "Contour 3224 audio cable". I plan on using my Soundcraft mixer as a pre-amp. It has XLR and TS 1/4" outputs: Outputs: 150Ω (balanced), 75Ω (unbalanced)
Will this cable be ok? ( Do I need to worry if I end up using unbalanced input? ) I read somewhere using CAT6 twisted pair is ok but not for unbalanced. ( not sure why )
https://www.avshop.ca/wire-amp-cable/bulk-wire/brtb-contour-3224-microphone-cable-1000ft-305m
I forgot to ask about cable directionality and if I should consider this.
This is the mixer I plan on using as a pre-amp:
https://www.soundcraft.com/en/produ...uide-pdf-d6480890-ea64-4908-b40c-3d462f8e359c
This is the mixer I plan on using as a pre-amp:
https://www.soundcraft.com/en/produ...uide-pdf-d6480890-ea64-4908-b40c-3d462f8e359c
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By 'directinality' I was referring to the sheild/ground on one end of the xlr cable floating, and not the alignment of copper crystals or that type of thing. ( that is over my head ) The cables I have are marked with a 'direction' arrow to allow one end of the sheild to float but not sure if I should consider this when wiring up the inside of the inputs.