F4 power amplifier

carpenter said:



This one looks balanced.........



Maybe so, but I can almost guarantee this one isn't :rofl:
 

Attachments

  • zakim_bridge_andyryan.jpg
    zakim_bridge_andyryan.jpg
    47.3 KB · Views: 898
SY said:
Trivially easy, just remove the input tube and phase-splitter/driver. Push-pull output stages are inherently balanced and usually run pretty close to unity gain to the output.

Well, so much for my mysterious genius cred. 😀


I'm sorry but it seems :-

1.you're taking the mickey
or
2. Its just arrogant
or
3. I'm being really dense

how is it trivial if youve removed the splitter to get a full signal into 2 valves 180 degs out of phase?

and how do you lose the inherent gain in the valve in the first place...

hoping to understand

Ed
 
vitalstates said:



...........
how is it trivial if youve removed the splitter to get a full signal into 2 valves 180 degs out of phase?

and how do you lose the inherent gain in the valve in the first place...

hoping to understand

Ed


easy - just put em (output toobz) on CCS , ground one grid and drive other

inherent gain .....loosing ........ there are few ways to do this , but dunno what SY does ;

besides - I'm pretty sure that he is teasing ya slightly .

just give him time to prepare what he need to prepare and I'm sure that you'll have what to read and think - for few evenings ......
 
Ah, sorry. The preamp I built for Variac's F4 was single-ended or balanced in and balanced out. A balanced signal is just perfect for driving a push-pull tube output stage.

Now as to output stages, remember that what the tube giveth, the output transformer taketh away. So for my amp, the output stage grids need to be driven to about 10-11V peak per side to give full output at the secondary of the output transformer. Full output is about 15V peak, so the total output stage is not too far off from unity gain.
 
Re: Fet Insulators

habsrock93 said:
Just Wondering if anyone has any thoughts or experiences with these heat pads. Seems like a good alternative to using mica and grease. (would have been nice if i'd ordered these with the rest of my F4 parts that just arrived 😛 )


Thanks


Dave

I personally will never go back to using mica or the rubber type, i strickly only use the ceramic ones. They work VERY well, and will never ever give you a dead short.


The downside to them is, if you torque the screws to tight they crack so snug is all you need, a little thermal grease on both sides and wola perfection 🙂

J