just curious since I understand aluminum cones tend to have some weird resonances is there a way to dampen that off without adding a lot of mass to the driver?
Tsk tsk Mr Thorne, do I detect a note of sarcasm in your reply🙂
I have no idea what you're talking about!
It may seem I am some sort of audionut who massages his temples in snake oil while chanting obscure mantra's...
No criticism was meant, I simply can't pass up an opportunity to make a funny.
I have no idea what you're talking about!
It may seem I am some sort of audionut who massages his temples in snake oil while chanting obscure mantra's...
No criticism was meant, I simply can't pass up an opportunity to make a funny.
rx7speed.
Here are some EnABL patterns applied to a Jordan JX92S metal driver. They will at least give you a hint on how to manage a low mass control of ringing.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1206356#post1206356
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210045#post1210045
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210065#post1210065
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100399&perpage=25&pagenumber=10
This series shows the effects on phase response for the
Jordan driver.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1227789#post1227789
And then this last post that shows where he finally found the key to the systemic ringing on these Jordan drivers.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1231568#post1231568
I suspect you could copy his methods and arrive at an effective quench of the aluminum drivers you are concerned with. If you can proced in as controlled a fashion as he did, I know Sonnsgc and many others on the EnABL thread would be interested. Please pay particular attention to where he places his control patterns, and don't be sidetracked by his use of toothpaste, though I would suggest a more permanent pattern applied with flat acrylic paint, as described in numerous places in this thread, once you have the pattern locations needed.
Bud
Here are some EnABL patterns applied to a Jordan JX92S metal driver. They will at least give you a hint on how to manage a low mass control of ringing.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1206356#post1206356
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210045#post1210045
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1210065#post1210065
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=100399&perpage=25&pagenumber=10
This series shows the effects on phase response for the
Jordan driver.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1227789#post1227789
And then this last post that shows where he finally found the key to the systemic ringing on these Jordan drivers.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1231568#post1231568
I suspect you could copy his methods and arrive at an effective quench of the aluminum drivers you are concerned with. If you can proced in as controlled a fashion as he did, I know Sonnsgc and many others on the EnABL thread would be interested. Please pay particular attention to where he places his control patterns, and don't be sidetracked by his use of toothpaste, though I would suggest a more permanent pattern applied with flat acrylic paint, as described in numerous places in this thread, once you have the pattern locations needed.
Bud
Adam😀
I found your comments hillarious.
Going to start playing about with a lot of the mods Dave has suggested over the next couple of weeks, and EnABL application. I'll also route round the local hardware stores and see if I can find any UK alternatives to Silent Running.
I'd appreciate any advice on colouring the cones and how far you could go please Dave. (Was looking at the FE166's while watching the life of plats documentary and the similarity between them and flowers started gelling in my mind and...lets say the ideas I had for the origional CC are going to be eclipsed by the FE166 (7) version I will build in an art related way.)
I found your comments hillarious.
Going to start playing about with a lot of the mods Dave has suggested over the next couple of weeks, and EnABL application. I'll also route round the local hardware stores and see if I can find any UK alternatives to Silent Running.
I'd appreciate any advice on colouring the cones and how far you could go please Dave. (Was looking at the FE166's while watching the life of plats documentary and the similarity between them and flowers started gelling in my mind and...lets say the ideas I had for the origional CC are going to be eclipsed by the FE166 (7) version I will build in an art related way.)
Couple of questions:
Does anybody have other product names for SR 500/1000 that might be easier to find in a place that is far, far away from any real boats?
Secondly, has anybody ever tried any of the self-fusing silicone electrical tape for damping magnet structures, etc.?
-- Jim
Does anybody have other product names for SR 500/1000 that might be easier to find in a place that is far, far away from any real boats?
Secondly, has anybody ever tried any of the self-fusing silicone electrical tape for damping magnet structures, etc.?
-- Jim
Just finished modding the basket of my FE206E's.
Decided to use blu tack as I wasn't sure what product to buy in Australia that is similar to duct seal or sr500.
Stuck felt on the back of the magnet and on the basket legs.
Any comments dave?
Decided to use blu tack as I wasn't sure what product to buy in Australia that is similar to duct seal or sr500.
Stuck felt on the back of the magnet and on the basket legs.
Any comments dave?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
BluTak is a good sub for ductseal.
Wixy's picture gives me the opportunity to start showing pics of what our prime use of SR500 is.
Attached is wixy's pic, plus a 206 that has had the bezel stiffening finished. The hollow "dish" of the front bezel has been filled with SR500, flattened (big razor knife + sanding), and then painted with black acrylic.
This dramatically stiffens the front bezel, and damps the entire basket. You can also see a fresh coat of SR500 on the basket legs and in the basket/magnet cavity. This driver may need one more coat & then the remaining cavity will be filled with ductseal. The few layers of SR500 in the cavity stiffens up the structure and i get 2 levels of damping.
dave
Wixy's picture gives me the opportunity to start showing pics of what our prime use of SR500 is.
Attached is wixy's pic, plus a 206 that has had the bezel stiffening finished. The hollow "dish" of the front bezel has been filled with SR500, flattened (big razor knife + sanding), and then painted with black acrylic.
This dramatically stiffens the front bezel, and damps the entire basket. You can also see a fresh coat of SR500 on the basket legs and in the basket/magnet cavity. This driver may need one more coat & then the remaining cavity will be filled with ductseal. The few layers of SR500 in the cavity stiffens up the structure and i get 2 levels of damping.
dave
Attachments
Any ideas on what other names the SR-500 might go by in a place where there is no marine industry to speak of?
I've got a couple of new drivers here that I'm about to start treating.
-- Jim
I've got a couple of new drivers here that I'm about to start treating.
-- Jim
jrebman said:
Googling "latex damping compounds" turns up a number of hits (this thread turns up number 8 🙂). Looks like it is used in making cars quieter too,
Noisekiller was the one brand name that stood out.
dave
How about using ordinary automotive two part polyester body filler AKA bondo, or better the fine strand fiberglass needle laden version of bondo? If you like to get creative you can even load it up with fine lead shot pellets.
No More Nails...
Hi all.
I modified my baskets on my Mission 753 speakers a while back.
What I used is "No More Nails"
It is an instant grab and fill adhesive. I applied it in the usual places, mainly between the magnet and the basket.
The Mission speakers use stamped steel baskets. After modification the sound had improved quite audibly. The mid range especially sounded more clear and focused.
Advantages of no more nails are...
The application is set in a couple of hours (sorry dave but 50 applications is well beyond my patience levels)
The adhesive is not solvent based. Solvents and speaker construction are a bad idea. You may melt the glue that holds on the cone and the gasket and many other parts are glued as well.
Cost! No more nails in cartridge form is cheap. 1 1/2 tubes did 8 baskets for less than 8GBP
What I will have to do is take the drivers out and see how they are doing, cracks etc. What I did notice is that the product shrinks as it dries. The last time I had the drivers out, what had been a completely filled gap was now less so.
Hi all.
I modified my baskets on my Mission 753 speakers a while back.
What I used is "No More Nails"
It is an instant grab and fill adhesive. I applied it in the usual places, mainly between the magnet and the basket.
The Mission speakers use stamped steel baskets. After modification the sound had improved quite audibly. The mid range especially sounded more clear and focused.
Advantages of no more nails are...
The application is set in a couple of hours (sorry dave but 50 applications is well beyond my patience levels)
The adhesive is not solvent based. Solvents and speaker construction are a bad idea. You may melt the glue that holds on the cone and the gasket and many other parts are glued as well.
Cost! No more nails in cartridge form is cheap. 1 1/2 tubes did 8 baskets for less than 8GBP
What I will have to do is take the drivers out and see how they are doing, cracks etc. What I did notice is that the product shrinks as it dries. The last time I had the drivers out, what had been a completely filled gap was now less so.
rcavictim said:
This stuff is much easier to use than bondo and has specific sound damping properties.
dave
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