Extreme basket tricks

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#21
Thanks Dave!

I've been using "Rope Caulk" for a couple of years. It's the non-hardening putty made for window glass. Nice and heavy, easy to shape - sticky, too. Maybe similar to oil based clay?

However, it's not going to do much for frame stiffening.
 
#22
I've started using rope caulk for damping and plumbers epoxy putty for strengthening.

Dave, regarding the space behind the front flange on stamped fostex (and other) baskets - do you think damping or strengthening is more important at this location?
 
#23
Dave, I've been on a parallel path to yours, wish I knew earlier. I'm working on shaping trailing edges on the legs and entire magnet as well. trying to get a nice mold-able shape.

I also have a dead fe-127 that I'm using to model a completely new frame for.
 
#26
AdamThorne said:
regarding the space behind the front flange on stamped fostex (and other) baskets - do you think damping or strengthening is more important at this location?
Click to expand...

I don't know for sure... my guess would be stiffening, but probably not by much. If you grab a Fostex basket in your hands and twist, that it moves at all is indicative (it doesn't after stiffening)

dave
 
#29
Sjef said:
Does anybody know the Dutch translation of "ductseal" and "Rope Caulk" ?
Been wanting to experiment with it for some time now but I simply can't find it, it's called different over here
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All giggles aside, It is also called "Finger Caulk" Should be located near the weatherstriping department in a hardware store. Maybe by the paint, near the regular caulking. In the states, it is located near the shrink plastic wrap for winterizing windows, or near the foam strips for doors.
 
#31
zayne742 said:
All giggles aside, It is also called "Finger Caulk" Should be located near the weatherstriping department in a hardware store. Maybe by the paint, near the regular caulking. In the states, it is located near the shrink plastic wrap for winterizing windows, or near the foam strips for doors.
Click to expand...

I buy it at one of the local electrical/air conditioning wholesalers. There are lots of brands with slightly different consistencies. The best i've found is Ideal. see http://www.t-linespeakers.org/design/tweeks.html

dave
 
#32
I have been in such stores overhere but no one seems to know what I'm talking about unless i can name it by it's dutch name. That's always terrible with those grey-jacket salesmen, they want to know the exact name or else they don't do any trouble for you.

I did find a stuff called vribradamp wich is some kind of coating like the SR500 I guess. It can be used to damp metal sheet but I think it's not good for filling in the holes in a speaker gasket. Vibradamp
 
#34
Cal Weldon said:
I don't know if Dave knows but is it the same material they use for fire-damping around pipes and things as they pass through fire walls? In not, it seems very similar.
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Again, All giggles aside, That is Fire Caulk, it hardens to an extent. Kind of a cross between expanding foam and silicone. Different values have different hardening strengths. Also, it is heavier than foam, but lighter than the rope caulk or duct seal.
 
#36
John L said:
Dave, does your Silent Running harden, or remain pliable?
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John - Silent Running cures to a consistency harder than say gypsum based drywall compound, but softer than 2 part epoxy auto body filler (bondo)

During the early cure stages it can be fairly easily carved with utility knife and later sanded with 120 through 220G paper to a decent paint ready surface if needed.


the Duct Seal product Dave has been using for over 30yrs (and is still reusable after that time)

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_installation/accessories/duct_seal.jsp
 
#39
I used this:
 

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