I've done two mistakes:
1. Used a wrench socket instead of a wooden phase plug. Not so nice. Gotta remove it and make a proper plug.
2. Applied one thin coat of dammar. I think it made them sound worse.
Gotta do something about it. Puzzlecoat? Enabl?....
Anyway I can't properly evaluate them, as they are boxless now. I've abandoned them when I bought Visaton B200. Now I am contemplating about a new enclosure. Will be either a short BIB or a full Chang. (BIB has better chances, but...)
1. Used a wrench socket instead of a wooden phase plug. Not so nice. Gotta remove it and make a proper plug.
2. Applied one thin coat of dammar. I think it made them sound worse.
Gotta do something about it. Puzzlecoat? Enabl?....
Anyway I can't properly evaluate them, as they are boxless now. I've abandoned them when I bought Visaton B200. Now I am contemplating about a new enclosure. Will be either a short BIB or a full Chang. (BIB has better chances, but...)
Attachments
That socket would work much better if it was closer to the diameter of the pole piece. That gap is huge and should be 1mm or less, as small as possible but not rubbing. The best solution is getting proper, wooden phase plugs.
Dammar worked well for me but, if you don't like it or applied too much you can remove most of it by carefully wiping it off with a soft cloth moistened with 99% alcohol. Just don't soak the cone. It'll take many light passes.
Edit: don't use cotton balls, the fibers can stick like mud to bedsheets!
Dammar worked well for me but, if you don't like it or applied too much you can remove most of it by carefully wiping it off with a soft cloth moistened with 99% alcohol. Just don't soak the cone. It'll take many light passes.
Edit: don't use cotton balls, the fibers can stick like mud to bedsheets!
A lot of effort had been put into shaping the basket on these drivers. Then you cut a hole in a baffle, chamfer it, and mount them.
The edge of the frame leans back toward the magnet, the mounting hole is routered back away from the magnet. Doesn't this create a large circle of unsmoothed discontinuous imperfection around the driver? Is the effect of this smaller than I would think? B/C it seems that this discontinuity would be large in comparison to some of the areas you have gone to considerable effort to smooth.
Have you considered mounting a driver in the baffle and smoothing the basket - baffle junction before closing up the box?
The extreme smoothed driver is certainly awsomely cool lookin.
The edge of the frame leans back toward the magnet, the mounting hole is routered back away from the magnet. Doesn't this create a large circle of unsmoothed discontinuous imperfection around the driver? Is the effect of this smaller than I would think? B/C it seems that this discontinuity would be large in comparison to some of the areas you have gone to considerable effort to smooth.
Have you considered mounting a driver in the baffle and smoothing the basket - baffle junction before closing up the box?
The extreme smoothed driver is certainly awsomely cool lookin.
AdamThorne said:
All of our holes have a 45 degree champher on them to prevent cavities. We also use maximum 18 mm thick baffles. If i had the time/effort/tools/money, i'd be CNCing an aluminum mounting plate and mounting the drivers from the backside to open things up even further.
dave
When I worked for Mille' Nestorovic in the late eighties, he found something called Acoustical Magic. The stuff was made down near the California border, in Oregon, on I 5. Was a white flat Latex wall paint, probably outdoor grade due to it's viscosity, and it appeared to be filled with slate dust of a moderately coarse nature. Definitely not beach sand, but not ground flour either. A single coat would absolutely kill all resonances in a cabinet.
We used it with discretion, but one of the places it ended up on was the baskets for the woofers. Made a very noticeable improvement too.
Bud
We used it with discretion, but one of the places it ended up on was the baskets for the woofers. Made a very noticeable improvement too.
Bud
Dave,
Just curious to know if you have any experience using Devcon "Plastic Steel" or other epoxies (metal-filled or otherwise) in this kind of an application . . . ?
I have developed a renewed respect for epoxy cements through Feastrex's Mr. Teramoto, and partly at his recommendation I recently used two kinds of epoxy cement in a DIY repair of a broken cast iron piano plate (frame/harp)
-- Chris
Just curious to know if you have any experience using Devcon "Plastic Steel" or other epoxies (metal-filled or otherwise) in this kind of an application . . . ?
I have developed a renewed respect for epoxy cements through Feastrex's Mr. Teramoto, and partly at his recommendation I recently used two kinds of epoxy cement in a DIY repair of a broken cast iron piano plate (frame/harp)
-- Chris
Can silent running sr1000 be used instead of the sr500, both are approx £22 per litre uk, but stockist has no sr500, so for a litre of SR500 it would be £22 + shipping/tax/etc (probably £50 +) whereas they have 1Lt of sr1000 (£22 +uk postage)
marce said:
Sure. SR1000 (according to my sales-guy) is "coast-guard approved" and sells for quite a bit more here.
(besides having owned 4 yamaha SR500s the number itself has special meaning 🙂)
dave
PS: Scott lives in a boat-building town, he should be able to walk into a shop and buy some. Even a litre is enuff to do a lot of speakers so you guys might want to share some round.
dave
dave
I think when pay day arrives I'll treat myself to a litre, I am thinking along the lines of experimenting with it as a coating for the cabinet walls as a damping medium, plus other area's I can see it being of use are the metal plates on my valve amps etc, I've used accusteel in the past to damp things down but this is infinately cheeper and can be painted onto curved surfaces etc.
It has certanly made a difference to my 207's you did, also make it easier to get a good seal between the driver and the cabinet anhd compared to the untreated (yet) 166's makes for a more substancial frame.
Quick edit as I missed your last post. Seems to be only one distributer in the UK according to the silent running web site, should imagine 1LT will do a lot of drivers so I'll save some for others. There are as I said things I've damped down with accusteel, my kitchen is next to the living room and during low level listening sessions there are things like boilers, freezers etc that rattle and realy bug me and this seems a good way of damping down these resonating steel structures.
It has certanly made a difference to my 207's you did, also make it easier to get a good seal between the driver and the cabinet anhd compared to the untreated (yet) 166's makes for a more substancial frame.
Quick edit as I missed your last post. Seems to be only one distributer in the UK according to the silent running web site, should imagine 1LT will do a lot of drivers so I'll save some for others. There are as I said things I've damped down with accusteel, my kitchen is next to the living room and during low level listening sessions there are things like boilers, freezers etc that rattle and realy bug me and this seems a good way of damping down these resonating steel structures.
I have also been thinking of all the various item which inhibit my stereo enjoyment that might benefit from the Silent Running treatment...
Door panels in the car
refrigerator compressor
you know, my electric razor is quite loud and when in use is quite close to my ear...
The dogs license tags jangle when he moves
In fact, the dog tends to emit this whining sound
My wife starts making noises when I turn the volume up as well
In the summertime (windows open) I can often hear my neighbors yelling at each other
When the weather is unusual planes from the airport go over the house...
... I may need more of this stuff than I originally thought...
😉
Door panels in the car
refrigerator compressor
you know, my electric razor is quite loud and when in use is quite close to my ear...
The dogs license tags jangle when he moves
In fact, the dog tends to emit this whining sound
My wife starts making noises when I turn the volume up as well
In the summertime (windows open) I can often hear my neighbors yelling at each other
When the weather is unusual planes from the airport go over the house...
... I may need more of this stuff than I originally thought...
😉
It was called "Acoustic Magic" I still have 2 sealed tins somewhere about. It contained Borosilicate ceramic as the filler, Totem Acoustics list "Borosilicate dampening" for most of their range.
Hollow spheres of Borosilicate Glass are used in some insulating paints, like Thermo-Shield® .
You can get hollow spheres at most fibreglass supply stores. www.fiberglasssupply.com
Regards
James
Thanks James.
Should you ever decide to rid yourself of one of those tins, please keep me in mind, though what would also interest me is volume of glass balls to goo ratio. I kind of remember how it stirred up and how thick a coat was the min, but that was a long time ago.
This stuff, used properly, is simply amazing. Will not replace the other materials discussed here, but would add another tool to that nth degree of sound search.
Bud
Should you ever decide to rid yourself of one of those tins, please keep me in mind, though what would also interest me is volume of glass balls to goo ratio. I kind of remember how it stirred up and how thick a coat was the min, but that was a long time ago.
This stuff, used properly, is simply amazing. Will not replace the other materials discussed here, but would add another tool to that nth degree of sound search.
Bud
I'm curious what we can do to such basket:
(pic from http://tw.f4.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/d23977423 )
This is an vintage Siemens 8 incher.
Oh, uh... I haven't heard any of them. Thet might be quite good to some ears, I don't know, despite that awkward basket....
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(pic from http://tw.f4.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/d23977423 )
This is an vintage Siemens 8 incher.
Oh, uh... I haven't heard any of them. Thet might be quite good to some ears, I don't know, despite that awkward basket....
Tsk tsk Mr Thorne, do I detect a note of sarcasm in your reply🙂 ,
It may seem I am some sort of audionut who massages his temples in snake oil while chanting obscure mantra's, but the fact is I live in a UK terraced house (houses in a row, joined together, for you USA guys) that has a floor area smaller than the average american bathroom, and the living room and kitchen are cojoined and it is impractical to keep the door closed so noise pollution from t'old coal powered boiler etc is a real problem.🙂
On a more serious note, it is in both cases it is pressed metal stampings that we are trying to control the resonance off. I have had a look round for similar producs to silent running but havn't had much look. From what I can discern the other products i've found so far have been acoustic paints where the acoustic attenuation is achieved by having some form of solid suspended in a medium that is elestic, and the solids moving in this medium attenuate the noise, these would'nt give the structural improvements that SR does as it dries to a epoxy like solid the attenuation being done on a much smaller scale. That is what my investigations have led me to belive at the moment (so I may be wrong), if any one has any brand names etc of similar products to SR I would be most grateful.
It may seem I am some sort of audionut who massages his temples in snake oil while chanting obscure mantra's, but the fact is I live in a UK terraced house (houses in a row, joined together, for you USA guys) that has a floor area smaller than the average american bathroom, and the living room and kitchen are cojoined and it is impractical to keep the door closed so noise pollution from t'old coal powered boiler etc is a real problem.🙂
On a more serious note, it is in both cases it is pressed metal stampings that we are trying to control the resonance off. I have had a look round for similar producs to silent running but havn't had much look. From what I can discern the other products i've found so far have been acoustic paints where the acoustic attenuation is achieved by having some form of solid suspended in a medium that is elestic, and the solids moving in this medium attenuate the noise, these would'nt give the structural improvements that SR does as it dries to a epoxy like solid the attenuation being done on a much smaller scale. That is what my investigations have led me to belive at the moment (so I may be wrong), if any one has any brand names etc of similar products to SR I would be most grateful.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.