Pen nibs from A2 to A4 are imperative. The A5 will do, for up to a 15 inch woofer. The A0 and A1 will be useful in the whizzer cones, not as useful as Rapidiogrph technical pens, but with just a mite of patience, very useful.
Dave's use of the pointed # 56 quill point pen for tiny dots on domes and such is a very good choice, if, as he found true, battling with the tiny and easily wrecked technical pen gizzards are not too taste.
The acrylic ever sticky paper glue used on the Hemp FR8 driver will be useful for all whizzer treatment. But, crucial to bending the inner wave around that ledge to cone edge and emitting it with a wide enough dispersion, that no hot spot enrichment can be heard directly in front of the driver, Vs 30 to 60 degrees off axis.
Ed
I suspect that if you just start a thread in the barter area and offer the "kit" you will find a number of takers. But, this is still very early days. Maybe a100 people are aware of the wave approaching, in comparison to the 6 billion that aren't. As we age and Dave infects an ever widening area with his "virus" methods of Gob Smack introduction to EnABL'd drivers, more folks will begin to look for the kits. A lot more will want a finished speaker..... going to be looking for EnABL "technicians" all over the world. They will be looking for easy access to the materials too, and I have no current intention of supplying that kit.
Bud
Dave's use of the pointed # 56 quill point pen for tiny dots on domes and such is a very good choice, if, as he found true, battling with the tiny and easily wrecked technical pen gizzards are not too taste.
The acrylic ever sticky paper glue used on the Hemp FR8 driver will be useful for all whizzer treatment. But, crucial to bending the inner wave around that ledge to cone edge and emitting it with a wide enough dispersion, that no hot spot enrichment can be heard directly in front of the driver, Vs 30 to 60 degrees off axis.
Ed
I suspect that if you just start a thread in the barter area and offer the "kit" you will find a number of takers. But, this is still very early days. Maybe a100 people are aware of the wave approaching, in comparison to the 6 billion that aren't. As we age and Dave infects an ever widening area with his "virus" methods of Gob Smack introduction to EnABL'd drivers, more folks will begin to look for the kits. A lot more will want a finished speaker..... going to be looking for EnABL "technicians" all over the world. They will be looking for easy access to the materials too, and I have no current intention of supplying that kit.
Bud
Dave,
Correct you are, sorry. Typical of the dyslexic mental pattern, you should see the vowel mess that I make while typing. And that is with only two fingers! Multi finger typing is such a mess that I usually cannot decipher what I have finished, and end up retyping, using just two.
Bud
Correct you are, sorry. Typical of the dyslexic mental pattern, you should see the vowel mess that I make while typing. And that is with only two fingers! Multi finger typing is such a mess that I usually cannot decipher what I have finished, and end up retyping, using just two.
Bud
Getting ready to practice some EnABL-ing...
Here is what I bought....
What would be the sizes of A0-A5 pen tips if expressed in millimeters?
I couldn't find anything labeled as "Microscale Gloss";
However, there was "Acrylic Varnish"-gloss. Is it the same thing? I didn't buy it because I wasn't sure if that's what is needed...
Regards,
Vix
Here is what I bought....
What would be the sizes of A0-A5 pen tips if expressed in millimeters?
I couldn't find anything labeled as "Microscale Gloss";
However, there was "Acrylic Varnish"-gloss. Is it the same thing? I didn't buy it because I wasn't sure if that's what is needed...
Regards,
Vix
Attachments
Spread the virus
Bud,
I think I'll gather some limited goods and put a package together.
I'm beginning a little project to herald the coming of the virus. I recall early-on a comment about the suitability of wool cones for treatment. Hence this choice:
Silver Flute W14RC25 5 1/2" Wool Cone
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_254&products_id=842
I also have acquired a stock of the following:
Vifa #BC25SC15-04
http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pdf/pl/BC25SC15-04.pdf
My intent is to build 2 matched sets ( matching L-L & R-R) and EnABL one set for side by side comparison. I hope to have them ready by April 1. I will be leaning on you to wave your wand above them.
Bud,
I think I'll gather some limited goods and put a package together.
I'm beginning a little project to herald the coming of the virus. I recall early-on a comment about the suitability of wool cones for treatment. Hence this choice:
Silver Flute W14RC25 5 1/2" Wool Cone
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=45_228_254&products_id=842
I also have acquired a stock of the following:
Vifa #BC25SC15-04
http://www.tymphany.com/datasheet/pdf/pl/BC25SC15-04.pdf
My intent is to build 2 matched sets ( matching L-L & R-R) and EnABL one set for side by side comparison. I hope to have them ready by April 1. I will be leaning on you to wave your wand above them.
I don't know why I always skipped this thread, but I'm about 20 pages in and allready hooked in concept.
First some questions...
Are the paterns done on the front or rear of the cones?
Also saw some paterns on boxes, are the paterns on the inside or outside of the boxes?
The paterns on boxes do not seem to go all the way around... is this correct?
Now an observation. as the thread starts to sink in with me, it seems the process is mainly a way of dealing with the boundary layer (i.e. the hold of standing air on the cone flapping in the wind, resisting movement by clinging on to that boundarly layer).
I am a bit of a tesla fan, especialy tesla turbine technology, which basicaly is a way of useing the boundary layer to propel an axle through attached disks. As oposed to the ineficient piston engine which works DESPITE haveing to experience great forces being aplied at 180degree shifts of direction in fractions of a second... teribly wastefull, the turbine can be stacked through multiple phases and works by altering the direction of the movement of the propeling gas as gradualy as possible, so keeping the momentum for the maximum amount of time, while the disks gets dragged along in this "vortex".
Anyhow I often sit and visualise my own version of the turbine which for one differs in that I will not use a smooth surface for the iner chamber, but rather expiriment with some sort of bump patern... the thinkning is that the air also has a boundary layer with these walls of the turbine and that it would be a weaker binding, if this surface is not smooth... If you can enlarge the image to incredible scale I visualise sticky air molucules being blown in the wind along a flat surface and they stick to the surface a bit when they touch... now recess some holes in the flat surface in some matrix, ha, less surface for the moluculese to stick onto in their path, so higher velocity.
Now this was always just rough speculation as did not have the oportunity for a fancy education, then I read the other day that they are now looking at using non-smooth surfaces for aircraft for the very same reasons...
SO, dont you think that there should be one more stage to your modification... ? a full surface, textured woofer cone with enabl to prevent standing waves too...
First some questions...
Are the paterns done on the front or rear of the cones?
Also saw some paterns on boxes, are the paterns on the inside or outside of the boxes?
The paterns on boxes do not seem to go all the way around... is this correct?
Now an observation. as the thread starts to sink in with me, it seems the process is mainly a way of dealing with the boundary layer (i.e. the hold of standing air on the cone flapping in the wind, resisting movement by clinging on to that boundarly layer).
I am a bit of a tesla fan, especialy tesla turbine technology, which basicaly is a way of useing the boundary layer to propel an axle through attached disks. As oposed to the ineficient piston engine which works DESPITE haveing to experience great forces being aplied at 180degree shifts of direction in fractions of a second... teribly wastefull, the turbine can be stacked through multiple phases and works by altering the direction of the movement of the propeling gas as gradualy as possible, so keeping the momentum for the maximum amount of time, while the disks gets dragged along in this "vortex".
Anyhow I often sit and visualise my own version of the turbine which for one differs in that I will not use a smooth surface for the iner chamber, but rather expiriment with some sort of bump patern... the thinkning is that the air also has a boundary layer with these walls of the turbine and that it would be a weaker binding, if this surface is not smooth... If you can enlarge the image to incredible scale I visualise sticky air molucules being blown in the wind along a flat surface and they stick to the surface a bit when they touch... now recess some holes in the flat surface in some matrix, ha, less surface for the moluculese to stick onto in their path, so higher velocity.
Now this was always just rough speculation as did not have the oportunity for a fancy education, then I read the other day that they are now looking at using non-smooth surfaces for aircraft for the very same reasons...
SO, dont you think that there should be one more stage to your modification... ? a full surface, textured woofer cone with enabl to prevent standing waves too...
Well I have a dead 8" driver to practice on, that is identical to my active units...
How thick is this layer on the box?
I got tonnes of model paint here somewhere just gotta find a can that isnt hard yet... would I choose a metaly thick paint like aluminium colour or just a medium viscosity flat black...?
I think I have some model aircraft masking tape to try and use as templates...
How thick is this layer on the box?
I got tonnes of model paint here somewhere just gotta find a can that isnt hard yet... would I choose a metaly thick paint like aluminium colour or just a medium viscosity flat black...?
I think I have some model aircraft masking tape to try and use as templates...
Hi Nordic,
The pens are not so fancy. Do you have an art supply near you? It is a simple nib-holder and nibs used for calligraphy. Cost is a few dollars for holder and a few more for the nibs. PM me if you need some. I can mail them to you...BTW nice job on packing the DX stuff...
Richard (tea)
The pens are not so fancy. Do you have an art supply near you? It is a simple nib-holder and nibs used for calligraphy. Cost is a few dollars for holder and a few more for the nibs. PM me if you need some. I can mail them to you...BTW nice job on packing the DX stuff...
Richard (tea)
Nordic,
Go here for a three part tutorial on how to EnABL, what to do, what not to do and what to watch out for. Starts on page 8, half way down the page and ends on page 9.
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1429&start=105
Also, go here for a set of pictures showing basic tools, what they look like in specific details of construction and how to use the correct ones, correctly
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/LowtherPreTreatment?authkey=VnmOeDveOOk
Then, throughout this thread are some PDF file, paper doll cutouts, used to guide pattern application on specific drivers. These can be scaled to other sizes with Adobe's size option, when you print them. I have these all collected in a zip file if you want them. Just PM me with your email and I can forward them.
The pictures for individual cone treatments can be found here. They will be useful in showing you where the patterns are applied, in relation to the pattern guide rings. The basic tools pics can be seen in use if you pick the albums named "Lowther DX 4 EnABL patterns" and another named "Final Lowther pattern rings".
http://picasaweb.google.com/home?tab=mq
Mostly have fun, and continue to think!
Bud
Go here for a three part tutorial on how to EnABL, what to do, what not to do and what to watch out for. Starts on page 8, half way down the page and ends on page 9.
http://www.hawthorneaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1429&start=105
Also, go here for a set of pictures showing basic tools, what they look like in specific details of construction and how to use the correct ones, correctly
http://picasaweb.google.com/hpurvine/LowtherPreTreatment?authkey=VnmOeDveOOk
Then, throughout this thread are some PDF file, paper doll cutouts, used to guide pattern application on specific drivers. These can be scaled to other sizes with Adobe's size option, when you print them. I have these all collected in a zip file if you want them. Just PM me with your email and I can forward them.
The pictures for individual cone treatments can be found here. They will be useful in showing you where the patterns are applied, in relation to the pattern guide rings. The basic tools pics can be seen in use if you pick the albums named "Lowther DX 4 EnABL patterns" and another named "Final Lowther pattern rings".
http://picasaweb.google.com/home?tab=mq
Mostly have fun, and continue to think!
Bud
Thanks I got the first link via google...
Been haveing some fun tonight with speaker mods... my boxes were not designed for my woofers, they were rather just replacements that fit the holes. tonight I did some zobels to tame the impendace peak at low frequencies, and i was so impressed, realy clears up the midrange, I would have thought the change would be more prominent in the bass area...
I did it on one channel first the stock one sounded positively muffled compared to the zobled one...
Glad I learned something today...
My wife said she has some caligraphy pens somewhere, will see shat she digs up yesterday.... found one of my model aircraft paints that sounded similar to the descriptions, it is pretty runny, can be shaken to a froth, seems to contain a lrage amount of very fine powdery particulate matter. The only catch is it is sky grey.... of well I have some old baby drivers I don't mind uglying up as they are singles and mostly used for testing amp stability.
Been haveing some fun tonight with speaker mods... my boxes were not designed for my woofers, they were rather just replacements that fit the holes. tonight I did some zobels to tame the impendace peak at low frequencies, and i was so impressed, realy clears up the midrange, I would have thought the change would be more prominent in the bass area...
I did it on one channel first the stock one sounded positively muffled compared to the zobled one...
Glad I learned something today...
My wife said she has some caligraphy pens somewhere, will see shat she digs up yesterday.... found one of my model aircraft paints that sounded similar to the descriptions, it is pretty runny, can be shaken to a froth, seems to contain a lrage amount of very fine powdery particulate matter. The only catch is it is sky grey.... of well I have some old baby drivers I don't mind uglying up as they are singles and mostly used for testing amp stability.
This is the first time I look at this 'process'. All I can say, is that I was doing something quite similar to this, in 1993. I was waiting until I actually went forward with my speaker company before going back to it again.
Suffice it to say, I was getting incredible results out of $7 6.5" mid woofers, at that time.
Good thread and damn......I thought it was my little secret. There goes another one. Good thing the (our) speaker company is on the verge of going forward. Lord knows what you guys will stumble onto next. I don't think I'm mister super-big brain either. Sometimes I open up a 1959 Scott speaker or something and find that those guys knew these 'secrets' as well, way back then! Sometimes the good stuff slips by, right in plain view..as many times, people don't even know what they're looking at.
Suffice it to say, I was getting incredible results out of $7 6.5" mid woofers, at that time.
Good thread and damn......I thought it was my little secret. There goes another one. Good thing the (our) speaker company is on the verge of going forward. Lord knows what you guys will stumble onto next. I don't think I'm mister super-big brain either. Sometimes I open up a 1959 Scott speaker or something and find that those guys knew these 'secrets' as well, way back then! Sometimes the good stuff slips by, right in plain view..as many times, people don't even know what they're looking at.
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