Hi Victor,C1 C2 and C6 C8 with the kit are low ESR caps. You should keep those low esr caps and move the budget to Lundahl 2777B.
I do so many tests for the last 5 years. The most effective is the good quality OPT.
I'd like to do the OPT upgrade, can you let me know the cost? I'm in CA. I'll email you...
brent
Hey, just starting out and looking into this as my first kit build. This is probably a silly question but is a preamp necessary, or does it add much to this amp?
The amp has 2 inputs and a volume control so a preamp is not necessary unless you need more analog inputs (or a phono preamp for a turntable)
Earlier I tried Moth 30 active preamp and some Khosmo passive but at the end I am using my TU 8200R without any pre.Hey, just starting out and looking into this as my first kit build. This is probably a silly question but is a preamp necessary, or does it add much to this amp?
It sounds totally amazing without a preamp.
As already noted, no preamp is necessary unless you're wanting to add inputs and/or an analogue source such as a turntable. And just to confirm what many others have said about the listening quality: I took mine into a local, very high-end audio store where I could test some recommended speakers for it. The person who helped me - used to selling $10,000+ MacIntosh's - had set it up and commented that when he first turned it on, "it sounded like crap." After 20 minutes of warming up, however, he said "It's a really excellent amp." Enjoy!Hey, just starting out and looking into this as my first kit build. This is probably a silly question but is a preamp necessary, or does it add much to this amp?
Thanks! I will he using it exclusively for vinyl and my turntable doesn’t have a phono stage so I’ll probably build this with the tu8500. I was very confused because I saw this listed in a few places as an integrated amp but i realize now it doesn’t have a phono stage.
I will suggest you get the schitt audio phono for now if you are new to vinyl. Enjoy the 8200 for what it is for now. IMO, save the time and money for the 8600 & 8900 since they are far more superior. Separate the phono and preamp will give you better enjoyment.
Thanks for the advice. Not new to vinyl just new to amp building, but I’d definitely be happy to save a few hundred bucks on a phono pre as long as it doesn’t effect the quality.
I also built the tu8500 as something of an experiment. If you're interested in continuing with building these kits just for fun, it might be worth a look - i.e., instead of the recommended schitt audio phono. It's a simpler build - but also, in at least one place, quite fragile. While trying to solder in one of two toggle switches, I ended up overheating one pin to the point that it melted its way out of the switch, rendering the switch useless. I was very fortunate that Victor Kung could quickly came to the rescue (again ...) and was able to send me a replacement. Happy with the results - but on balance, have to agree with the assessment of NotReally: The 8200 is a pleasure, but the 8900 utterly blows me away. In the right setup (e.g., in my case, requiring some simple baffles on the room wall ca. 10 feet from and 90 degrees to the right speaker), the soundstage, as a start, is unbelievable. It extends across the entire room. On some old recordings, at least 5 or so of the different tracks composing the whole can be heard in different locations spread out across the soundstage. And so on. I never would have believed that music could sound this rich, complex, detailed, etc. outside of a recording studio or a very high-end and specialized installation running into the many 10s or 100s of thousands of dollars.
Hello community,
Is there a detailed troubleshooting guide available? I finished the build today, but the fuse blew in a couple of seconds upon power up. I would like to go about troubleshooting in a smart manner. I did have one solder bridge on two pins on one of the 40 pin connectors. I thought I had it fixed, but perhaps not.
Also, is there a guide to testing before fully assembling the amp?
Thanks!
Is there a detailed troubleshooting guide available? I finished the build today, but the fuse blew in a couple of seconds upon power up. I would like to go about troubleshooting in a smart manner. I did have one solder bridge on two pins on one of the 40 pin connectors. I thought I had it fixed, but perhaps not.
Also, is there a guide to testing before fully assembling the amp?
Thanks!
Hello Peter,Hello community,
Is there a detailed troubleshooting guide available? I finished the build today, but the fuse blew in a couple of seconds upon power up. I would like to go about troubleshooting in a smart manner. I did have one solder bridge on two pins on one of the 40 pin connectors. I thought I had it fixed, but perhaps not.
Also, is there a guide to testing before fully assembling the amp?
Thanks!
before fully assembling I think you have only one solution: check all parts, mainly what Victor advised (are they on the right place with right polarity or direction and right value) and solder joints. But my first thing on my check list would be the Unit 8. The used one and soldered socket is the right for your country?
Thank you Victor and gotan. I do have the 180uF can in the wrong polarity. Will fix this afternoon.
Reversing the polarity of the 180uF cap worked. Amp was stable for 45 minutes yesterday.
I apologize if this has been covered, but can I use other driver tubes than 12au7? I have a handful of NOS 12au7, plus quite a few 12ax7, and variants of both.
I apologize if this has been covered, but can I use other driver tubes than 12au7? I have a handful of NOS 12au7, plus quite a few 12ax7, and variants of both.
I should have mentioned that I do not plan on rolling tubes. I just want to find the right combination to get the sound I want and stick with it. I also plan on trying other power tubes I have on hand--6550, KT77, KT88.
Hi Peter,
if you plan to use 6550, EL34, KT88 or with other words: you are going to use other tubes than 6L6GC or 807 (with adapter) it is recommended to use only 12au7 tubes because of their 0.3A filament current.
If you want to use other driver tubes than 12au7 (like E80CC) you need some mod in your amp ( and use only 6L6GC (or like my favourite tubes: 807 and eqv. tubes with 807 to KT88 6.3V adapter))
paczeltf has a very good thread on this forum and/or you can send a PM to Ferenc (paczeltf).
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...n-elekit-tu-8200dx.331769/page-9#post-7256189
if you plan to use 6550, EL34, KT88 or with other words: you are going to use other tubes than 6L6GC or 807 (with adapter) it is recommended to use only 12au7 tubes because of their 0.3A filament current.
If you want to use other driver tubes than 12au7 (like E80CC) you need some mod in your amp ( and use only 6L6GC (or like my favourite tubes: 807 and eqv. tubes with 807 to KT88 6.3V adapter))
paczeltf has a very good thread on this forum and/or you can send a PM to Ferenc (paczeltf).
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...n-elekit-tu-8200dx.331769/page-9#post-7256189
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