i guess the mfr's do their best to keep trade secrets to themselves, but i could not think that this edge coating thing could be such a well kept secret 
It seems to me that any treatment either of the surround directly, or its interface/junction with the cone has to be very individually arrived at, and dependant on empirical tests, these being expensive trial and error.
There may be general rules or findings about things, but ultimately the for-mentioned must be the only way to optimise.
There may be general rules or findings about things, but ultimately the for-mentioned must be the only way to optimise.
The entire point of what was just said is that there is no 'one-size-fits-all' coating type that is optimal for every single loudspeaker cone / surround combination. Since cone sizes, materials, thicknesses, geometries, resonant profiles all vary, as do the materials, sizes, thicknesses and geometries of surrounds, each case requires assessing individually, rather than assuming there is some kind of magical solution with universal applicability. Moreover, even if said existed, it would hardly be in the interest of a manufacturer (who are businesses, not philanthropic institutions) to blazen forth to the world full details of their research and development, which they will have spent considerable time and effort on, either on coatings or the other materials and their specifications in a given drive unit.
Hi,
We talk about some coatings already, maybe we should focus on the way and materials receips for the particular purpose and cone materials ? I mean from the diy world experiences as Pano above.
I.e. : aluminium dome : circa, where to treat on the cone and with that
I.e : technics for the cone paper doesn't absorb too much a coating
I.e : for what : peaks, linearity, distorsions, pistonic behavior and so on...
I.e : ...
there was a cool material we know : butyl in liquid and spray for but it's seems more dangerous than leads vapor for home loudspeaker purpose... Certainly good for outside PA units.
Coca-Cola formula is very secret but I would not coat an aluminium speaker with it nore a paper cone despite the caramel... (and moistures after !)
It should be not so risky for the sound to coat 5 mm width ring of the cone material after the rubber edge of the surround... the risky thing is to add too much weight hence the importance of the receips... a solvant that dry ant that let the tacky or hardy structure according the wanted results. I just say again what was explained by the nice experienced members that inputed here.
We talk about some coatings already, maybe we should focus on the way and materials receips for the particular purpose and cone materials ? I mean from the diy world experiences as Pano above.
I.e. : aluminium dome : circa, where to treat on the cone and with that
I.e : technics for the cone paper doesn't absorb too much a coating
I.e : for what : peaks, linearity, distorsions, pistonic behavior and so on...
I.e : ...
there was a cool material we know : butyl in liquid and spray for but it's seems more dangerous than leads vapor for home loudspeaker purpose... Certainly good for outside PA units.
Coca-Cola formula is very secret but I would not coat an aluminium speaker with it nore a paper cone despite the caramel... (and moistures after !)
It should be not so risky for the sound to coat 5 mm width ring of the cone material after the rubber edge of the surround... the risky thing is to add too much weight hence the importance of the receips... a solvant that dry ant that let the tacky or hardy structure according the wanted results. I just say again what was explained by the nice experienced members that inputed here.
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I tried the ModPodge on rubber surrounds, but it instantly cracked when I moved the cone by hand (full excursion). I actually covered the whole cone and all the way out to almost half the rubber surround. It seems to stick to the rubber, but was too brittle. Have not measured it before/after.
Sure, but I do not think it should be difficult for the tweaker to be able to buy something that worked, maybe not the solution to all things but at least something that works, something that stays on and have some dampening properties
Fundamental is the need to define what problems are being addressed.
The functions of a surround are to; seal the cone to the basket, allow the required X travel, and absorb radiating energy so that it is not reflected back to the cone centre.
Manufacturers have found problems with surrounds which develop a 'life of their own' at certain frequencies, and even move out of phase with the cone causing a measurable dip in the overall response.
Cones have been made which are uniform in thickness from centre to rim, and also which vary in thickness , both getting thinner and thicker from the centre.
I think identifying a problem almost certainly will require a strobe to show it.
The functions of a surround are to; seal the cone to the basket, allow the required X travel, and absorb radiating energy so that it is not reflected back to the cone centre.
Manufacturers have found problems with surrounds which develop a 'life of their own' at certain frequencies, and even move out of phase with the cone causing a measurable dip in the overall response.
Cones have been made which are uniform in thickness from centre to rim, and also which vary in thickness , both getting thinner and thicker from the centre.
I think identifying a problem almost certainly will require a strobe to show it.
yes, for those that are willing to ruin a driver this could be a tweak to try out, but it is important to find a means that has reasonably correct properties, it just applies to find one
I agree this is true for most manufacturers.
That is exactly why I love all the people at Pass Labs. Nelson Pass, Wayne Colburn and Kent English freely share a lot of proprietary information they have developed over the years, all for the benefit of DIYers around the world!
Tjena.. The receipe I mentioned above keeps the glue elastic. The compound is also very useful for making sandwich cabinets with high damping factor.
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Thanks for your feedback. Other members are hereby warned.
I will investigate this further why the receipe did not work.
Maybe other variations of PVA or a missing ingredient in the old receipe?
The method is not very far from todays popular slime receipes on youtube, the solution may hopefully not be far away.
Any chemists out there?
i've had a lot of success with this stuff DAP Canada - MONO Ultra(R) Exterior Sealant
and being latex based it is easily reduced with clean water allowing brush application i.e. thinned coats.
i've used it to re-seal cloth surrounds, damp brittle paper and even rescued an old cerwin vega driver but had to use black forever changing the ubiquitous red surround and that's foam!
thus far it's still flexible even after living in my garage for three years.
and being latex based it is easily reduced with clean water allowing brush application i.e. thinned coats.
i've used it to re-seal cloth surrounds, damp brittle paper and even rescued an old cerwin vega driver but had to use black forever changing the ubiquitous red surround and that's foam!
thus far it's still flexible even after living in my garage for three years.
