Can't edit anymore, but I wanted to add that as far as I know, there is also a mat version of Mod Podge.
there is also a mat version of Mod Podge
I can confirm that. You can also get a version with sparkles in it.
dave
I am driven to despair with the seeming over emphasis of the 5" cone, (7" driver), in my ADAM Betas, which covers 100 to 800 Hz.
It seems too loud and resonant, and is the only driver of five lacking adjustments, and has some (measured qualitatively) peaks. It causes voices to be muddy to the extent of unintelligability, especially on films.
I'm sorely tempted to put some damping on the back of the hexacone kevlar (Eton) driver. Any opinions?
It seems too loud and resonant, and is the only driver of five lacking adjustments, and has some (measured qualitatively) peaks. It causes voices to be muddy to the extent of unintelligability, especially on films.
I'm sorely tempted to put some damping on the back of the hexacone kevlar (Eton) driver. Any opinions?
😀 😛I can confirm that. You can also get a version with sparkles in it.
dave
Do you have any experience with liquid rubber or latex?
I used it a lot to repair rubber surrounds and it's very close to invisible.
Could you post a link of the liquid rubber you mentioned?
I am curious what it is. In Troels article, it had a picture of the material when wet is white, and glossy transparent after drying.
PVA compounds does that which includes modge podge. My daughter has one that glows in the dark too. Normally that is accomplished by zinc sulphide. If you did that you theoretically have a ceramic coated cone.
I also have some bitumen paint. It is solvent based and I worry it could damage the glue between the cone and the surround but I thought it would be interesting to use on dampening metal cones. After all bitumen are mostly used for soundproofing car panels. Makes me wonder, if you could dampen metal cones by sticking it with many pieces of electrical insulation tape.
Oon
I am curious what it is. In Troels article, it had a picture of the material when wet is white, and glossy transparent after drying.
PVA compounds does that which includes modge podge. My daughter has one that glows in the dark too. Normally that is accomplished by zinc sulphide. If you did that you theoretically have a ceramic coated cone.
I also have some bitumen paint. It is solvent based and I worry it could damage the glue between the cone and the surround but I thought it would be interesting to use on dampening metal cones. After all bitumen are mostly used for soundproofing car panels. Makes me wonder, if you could dampen metal cones by sticking it with many pieces of electrical insulation tape.
Oon
Could you post a link of the liquid rubber you mentioned?
I am curious what it is. In Troels article, it had a picture of the material when wet is white, and glossy transparent after drying.
PVA compounds does that which includes modge podge. My daughter has one that glows in the dark too. Normally that is accomplished by zinc sulphide. If you did that you theoretically have a ceramic coated cone.
I also have some bitumen paint. It is solvent based and I worry it could damage the glue between the cone and the surround but I thought it would be interesting to use on dampening metal cones. After all bitumen are mostly used for soundproofing car panels. Makes me wonder, if you could dampen metal cones by sticking it with many pieces of electrical insulation tape.
Oon
I don't really know the specific brand anymore ,but mostly it's something like this or similar I think;
Trylon Latex Liquid Rubber 500Ml | Hobbycraft
Used a lot for crafting and things.
The stuff I always used really dried up totally transparent and fully mat.
You really had to get close to see it on a rubber surround.
The only downside of this latex rubber, is that it will harden after a while.
I had to throw away a whole bottle a few times 🙁
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I have tried Dana bookbinders glue. It's also white when applied, and almost clear after drying. Also flexible after drying but not sticky on the surface. Seems pretty good for edge coating. I thinned it with a little bit of water to be able to apply thin coats.
Do you have any experience with liquid rubber or latex?]
A long time ago i played with liquid rubber.
dave
I just came across Troels impressive measurements. Pity we don't have distortion measurements.
I suspect various cone treatments and glues from Visaton, Intertechnik and Parts Express could be used.
There is also a line of professional things made for wood to be used outside:
SIKKENS WV-Hirnholzsiegel 0,25 L Kodrin WV 457 Farblos online kaufen
Sikkens Kodrin Hirnholzsiegel WV 456 0,75l
Kodrin Seal | Sikkens
The first two are meant for sealing end grain of wood before before applying paint. The last is for permantently sealing the V-groove of the angles of a window frame.
I suspect various cone treatments and glues from Visaton, Intertechnik and Parts Express could be used.
There is also a line of professional things made for wood to be used outside:
SIKKENS WV-Hirnholzsiegel 0,25 L Kodrin WV 457 Farblos online kaufen
Sikkens Kodrin Hirnholzsiegel WV 456 0,75l
Kodrin Seal | Sikkens
The first two are meant for sealing end grain of wood before before applying paint. The last is for permantently sealing the V-groove of the angles of a window frame.
I also wondered if it would make sense to apply this to segments only, similar to Vifa paper cones that have five segments cut out.
What do you guys think of this? : edge-coating
Troels says "By adding a proper amount of glue with proper elasticity and resilience and in the right place on the inner side of the surround, the energy coming from the cone can better be absorbed and the result is a more linear frequency response". His graphs are convincing, the downside is "They loose some 0.5-1 dB sensitivity"
However, "The source of material and application technique shall not be revealed"
I just now saw this thread, because someone recently replied in it. It should come as no surprise that changing the mass and/or the compliance of a driver's surround will change its performance parameters. I would think that this would be obvious.
I suppose you look is an acquired taste but it is a cross of Troels' technique (extra damping across the surround) and the Vifa technique of smearing out the transition spatially.
PS: from the MR18 data sheet: The completely new rubber surround reduces resonances and prevents surround break up in
the midrange band - apparently not enough reduction?
Pity they didn't use the shorting ring that the ER18 has.
PS: from the MR18 data sheet: The completely new rubber surround reduces resonances and prevents surround break up in
the midrange band - apparently not enough reduction?
Pity they didn't use the shorting ring that the ER18 has.
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